toothbar install help

/ toothbar install help #1  

grwoolf

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Austin, TX
I just picked my toothbar up from the dealer and plan to install tomorrow. The dealer would have done the install, but I didn't want to bother hauling the tractor or bucket back in to the dealer, and figured the install should be pretty simple, but I have one question. In the attachment points on the toothbar that the bolts go through, it is slotted (at least a couple inches). I am wondering where to drill the holes in the bucket to line up. Should I line up with the front of the slot, rear, or does it really matter?
 
/ toothbar install help #2  
You want to hold the toothbar up tight to the cutting edge of the bucket. So drill the hole towards the back of the slot so the toothbar cannot slide forward.

Enjoy your new toy... It will amaze you!

Gary
 
/ toothbar install help #3  
PUT THE toothbar on and mark it about 2/3 back, make sure you leave enough room for the bolt to go thro easily. once you start common sense will take over. Drill a pilot hole then go to the size you need(using good sharp drill bits) and plenty of cutting oil.
 
/ toothbar install help
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks. It sounds like I want the holes in the back of the slot, or at least close to the back. The biggest drill bit I have is half inch and the bolts are at least 3/4, so I am hoping my hole saw bits will get the job done. I also plan to weld some plate to the bucket sides to reinforce the holes.
 
/ toothbar install help #5  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Drill a pilot hole then go to the size you need(using good sharp drill bits) and plenty of cutting oil. )</font>

The side walls of buckets are very soft steel. A bi-metal hole saw (the white ones) work perfectly for this. No lube is needed and the bi-metal hole saw will go thru the bucket like a hot knife thru butter. The best part is the hole saw only cost a few bucks at your local hardware or box store.

Also, I don't think you will need any side plates to strengthen the hole area. The holes are just there to keep the toothbar sitting on the bucket cutting edge which takes all the forces. Overkill is not necessary here.
 
/ toothbar install help #6  
Agree with prior posts - found a Unibit worked fine for punching holes in the sides of my FEL - takes a bit of patience, as in a minute or 2, for the Unibit to punch through - no need to reinforce area, or at least I haven't bent anything with some very substantial tasks
 
/ toothbar install help #7  
I was under the impression that the slotted holes were to allow you to loosten the bolts and slide the tooth bar forward enough to let it flip up into the bucket so you can use the bucket edge to back drag and smooth the area you are working. If that is the case, and you drill the holes in the rear of the slot, you defeat this function, but wherever you punch the holes, it will hold the toothbar in place if the bolts are tight.
 
/ toothbar install help
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Milkman - I thought the same thing about flipping the bar back and was going to mount at the front of the slot. It wouldn't work because I have some factory holes that overlaped with where the front holes would be and didn't want to mess with it. I mounted it at the back of the slot for now. I plan to add some reinforcement plate in the future and I will probably add another hole so I can attach it either way and see what works best. The bar will not flip all the way back because the teeth are wider then the bucket opening, but it would flip up far enough to use the bucket edge for smoothing. I did get a chance to try out the toothbar today and it works great. I was very impressed with the fit to my bucket and the toothbar is very well constructed. It is made by Construction Attachments, Inc. .
 
/ toothbar install help #9  
I got a new toothbar a couple of weeks ago from Markham Welding. The installation went fairly smooth, only took about 30 mins. or so. Since they did send the reinforcing plate with the toothbar, I went ahead and welded it on. It may be overkill but can't hurt. I am now convinced that a toothbar is a good investment. It does wonders for the efficiency of the bucket for a not too large investment.
 
/ toothbar install help #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was under the impression that the slotted holes were to allow you to loosten the bolts and slide the tooth bar forward enough to let it flip up into the bucket so you can use the bucket edge to back drag and smooth the area you are working. )</font>
Have never heard that theory before, not sure that even if you mount to the front that there would be enough play for you to flip the toothbar up, has anyone tried that?
 
/ toothbar install help
  • Thread Starter
#11  
The toothbar is definitely designed to flip up. Not only are the mounting bars slotted, but the bottom back edge of the mounting bar is rounded, not squared off to allow the bar to rotate up. I can't think of any other reason someone would go to the trouble of rounding it.
 
/ toothbar install help #12  
I have mine mounted at the front of the slot. And yes it does allow you to loosen the bolt, slide it forward and flip it up in the bucket.
 
/ toothbar install help #13  
Grwoolf,

I guess I stand corrected. Sorry for the confusion. With the teeth I have, I don't think a couple inch slot would be nearly be enough to clear the cutting edge. Not to mention, mine has no slot! Again sorry for the bad info.

Gary
 
 

Marketplace Items

2015 Peterbilt 367 T/A Wet Kit Sleeper Cab Truck Tractor (A56858)
2015 Peterbilt 367...
2016 Chevrolet Express 2500 Cargo Van (A61568)
2016 Chevrolet...
832739 (A61166)
832739 (A61166)
2017 Chevrolet Colorado Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A61568)
2017 Chevrolet...
Case TV380 (A62177)
Case TV380 (A62177)
2015 FORD F-150 LARIAT CREW CAB TRUCK (A63276)
2015 FORD F-150...
 
Top