Top link

/ Top link #1  

rasorbackq

Platinum Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
578
Location
Springfield Nova Scotia Canada
Tractor
Branson 4720
I have 6 implements that require a top link hook up . Seems the winch when lifted by the wife the threaded area on the bottom gets slightly bent , making the adjustment much harder to do on the next implement. Is there any reason why I cant just buy some metal tube drill a couple holes in the ends at the right length and be done with it? I find I never adjust the length after the pins are in during operation as its just too hard to move all the weight from the implement. Guess my other idea was to buy 5 more top links at $24 ea and set them to the length and leave them with that implement.I do not have hydraulics to run a top link .
 
/ Top link #2  
--quick attach for 3pt hitch = may mean redoing some of your implements to work correctly with quick attach.
--past easy hitch = http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/ one of the sticky threads at top of forum
--telescopic lower lift arms
--TNT (top n tilt) for 3pt hitch = ya already noted didn't have hydrualics.
TractorData.com Branson 4720 tractor information noting 0 to 2 rear remotes i am guessing. you could buy manufacture kit, or DIY the hoses and valve and then get hyd cylinder for the top link.

pending on implement, after you hook it up. lift it up and then set rear of implement onto something say a log or some 4x4 or 4x6, enough to cause the rear of implement to tilt forward. may help adjusting top link.

there are better turn buckles out there for a top link, in how you adjust them. i have not went and looked for them in some time. but i have ran across some that are like "chain binders" for say strapping down a car on a trailer. but they have ends small enough to work for a top link, and length adjuster. and then a handle you just pull downwards to tighten everything up.

if you can find the right tool in your arsenal (screw driver / wrench / scrape pipe, etc..) you can toss that into the turn buckle and wire it in some what. so you have extra leverage to turn the turn buckle. have seen many pieces of pipe with a hole drilled through center. so pipe is wired permanently to the turn buckle of the top link. just be carefull pipe can not get hung up between tractor and turn buckle when ya lift / lower, along with not interfering with the PTO shaft. with those cautions, have seen a lot more with the scrap pipe tossed into a mounted tool box on tractor. to deal with top and side link. (the scrap pipe i normally refer to as a "cheater bar")

some implements you might replace top link if using turnbuckles with a chain for certain areas of a given task at hand.
 
/ Top link
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Nobody answered the question if I could use a fixed bar to operate as a top link. I did like the chain idea . That will work for a couple implements like the bush hog, chipper, trailer hitch and maybe snow blower. But not for the winch and rear blade. Think I will,be buying some big chain.
 
/ Top link #5  
I think the concept of 5 top links at $24@ would be best. That way all would be adjustable and you would basically have 4 spare if you bend one too much.
 
/ Top link #6  
Just keep in mind that with a chain only, there is nothing to stop the implement from coming back over onto the tractor itself. :eek:

I don't care one way or the other, just saying.:thumbdown:
 
/ Top link #7  
Nobody answered the question if I could use a fixed bar to operate as a top link.

Of course you could... Assuming the bar was rated for the load placed upon it. All a top link is in operation, is a fixed length bar. You're probably better off with something like the hydraulink though.
 
/ Top link #8  
Nobody answered the question if I could use a fixed bar to operate as a top link. I did like the chain idea . That will work for a couple implements like the bush hog, chipper, trailer hitch and maybe snow blower. But not for the winch and rear blade. Think I will,be buying some big chain.


chipper, trailer hitch, winch = very bad idea with chain. your asking for bodily harm

rotatory cutters (name brand = bush hog) = some use chains for allowing rear of bush hog to go up and down a litle bit. but the chain is short. and the chain goes through a pipe. to help prevent the rotatory cutter from flipping back up on you.

snow blower, just seems like bad idea with use of chain and causing it to dig in vs slide over the surface.

i noted "certain areas" of a given task, for a chain. as in only used part of a time to get them through something say rotatory cutting. but then swapped back to a regular top link.

==============
looking at hydralink and the "air cushion" i don't know about that doing. seem like a lot of jitter jatter and uneven / bumpy finished work, could take place of chain in certain applications i suppose.

=============
fix length bar can work. it is the bending...

==============
3pt hitchs are awesome at dragging stuff when driving forward. but they stink when ya turn (can cause lower lift arms to bend), and when driving backwards again damage to 3pt hitch top link and lower lift arms. check chains, check bars, sway bars, sway chains, stay straps. all these bars/chains/straps are there to help limit the 3pt hitch and or protect the 3pt hitch in certain tasks.

sway bars/sway chains highly recommended for rotatory cutter, so the cutter not out in back acting like a large dog tail. swinging back and forth, along with protecting 3pt hitch if you go into a turn with rotatory cutter down, and side swipping something (down tree limb, a good bump, a rock etc...) and causing lower lift arms of 3pt hitch to buckle / bend.

those extra holes around the PTO shaft, around the final drive area that extend out to the tires, and extra holes were the top link fits. are those places to attach the check bars/chains, sway bars/chains, stay straps/bars. manufactures generally only sell/give top link, side link, lower lift arms, and maybe a draw bar with purchase, everything else is optional.
 
/ Top link
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Boggen I have given your reply some thought......
Your backing thoughts with a chain versus a top link have hit home. I have changed my mind with a trailer hitch to bad idea Chipper have not as its used on the ground.Driven with the weight hanging back and backing should nt be a problem.
Still out on the Rotary Cutter as my cutter is a 6' and only use it to mow grass and bushes.
Dont see how a chain will allow the snow blower to dig in rather then slide over the snow?
I see a max width steel tube 1/4 wall as stronger then a $24 top link. My wife broken a top link last week Hooked up a leg from the winch while turning and snapped it off at the thread bottom.
Would be so much faster with a chain but maybe not as safe. Time to think so more.
My head hurts.
 
/ Top link #10  
Hello rasorbackq, yes you can make a fixed length top link for the winch or what ever impliment you want to. This will let you use the adjustable top link on the impliments that don't bend it.
 
/ Top link #11  
my bad on snow blower.
but ya get the general idea though.
more of trying to get ya to think about safety vs quick and easy. a little there or here and makes a huge difference plus keeps ya safe.

=========
if winch is causing top link problems. you might consider putting up a metal mesh between winch and driver seat. so if cable breaks, wife or yourself not harmed from the whip back of the cable if it snaps. have had plenty of cable/chains/rops/straps break/snap and come flying back. i gotten extremely lucky so far.
 
/ Top link #12  
Nobody answered the question if I could use a fixed bar to operate as a top link. I did like the chain idea . That will work for a couple implements like the bush hog, chipper, trailer hitch and maybe snow blower. But not for the winch and rear blade. Think I will,be buying some big chain.

Yes on the fixed bar. Also the fixed bar will help to prevent injury to you if you go over backwards. The chain will collapse and allow the tractor to roll on over backwards. A solid rod of whatever material will push against the tractor and help to prevent it from going on over.

I needed a longer 3rd member once and cut the threaded ends off a conventional tube type link and took 2 pieces of angle iron and made a box out of them welding the threaded stubs into the ends. Worked fine.

Mark
 
/ Top link #13  
I think it might be time to back up a bit.
What are you doing to repeatedly bend/break the top link?
Something sounds wrong there, and THAT is what should be looked at.

as far as adjusting with an implement on, I normally set it down to adjust. Might need to lift, and re-set to adjust lots.

I've been using or owned a tractor for a dozen years and have the OEM top link, straight as an arrow. That's with mowers, box blade, normal blade, blower, trailer puller, and probably more.
 
/ Top link #14  
I think it might be time to back up a bit.
What are you doing to repeatedly bend/break the top link?
Something sounds wrong there, and THAT is what should be looked at.

as far as adjusting with an implement on, I normally set it down to adjust. Might need to lift, and re-set to adjust lots.

I've been using or owned a tractor for a dozen years and have the OEM top link, straight as an arrow. That's with mowers, box blade, normal blade, blower, trailer puller, and probably more.

Glad you said it. I kept thinking I was reading the OP wrong. Never bent one in over 50 years of tractor work. Adjust with the weight off the top link. Connect the sides before the top link.
 
/ Top link
  • Thread Starter
#15  
if winch is causing top link problems. you might consider putting up a metal mesh between winch and driver seat. so if cable breaks, wife or yourself not harmed from the whip back of the cable if it snaps. have had plenty of cable/chains/rops/straps break/snap and come flying back. i gotten extremely lucky so far.

When the link broke the winch fell against the tractor seat because it was off the ground.
When she put it down then it fell over on to the ground
 
/ Top link
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I think it might be time to back up a bit.
What are you doing to repeatedly bend/break the top link?
Something sounds wrong there, and THAT is what should be looked at.

as far as adjusting with an implement on, I normally set it down to adjust. Might need to lift, and re-set to adjust lots.


I've been using or owned a tractor for a dozen years and have the OEM top link, straight as an arrow. That's with mowers, box blade, normal blade, blower, trailer puller, and probably more.
Not sure how she bends the top link but has something to do with when the winch is lifted fully , it seems to bend the bottom threaded portion a little making the adjustment very hard. This is the second top link I have replaced for the same issue.

She is not aware the implement can be lifted only a little.
As for breaking the link I was right then as the winch leg swung out as she turned and hooked a tree.
She didn't see it and continued to drive . When the winch fell against the seat she stopped.
 
/ Top link
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Glad you said it. I kept thinking I was reading the OP wrong. Never bent one in over 50 years of tractor work. Adjust with the weight off the top link. Connect the sides before the top link.
We attach the sway bars both sides and then the top is attached. With a winch it is set on the ground to attach the top link or it will fall back or forward. 2 years for me and only the winch bends the link with 6 implements.
.
 
/ Top link #18  
Not sure how she bends the top link but has something to do with when the winch is lifted fully , it seems to bend the bottom threaded portion a little making the adjustment very hard. This is the second top link I have replaced for the same issue. She is not aware the implement can be lifted only a little. As for breaking the link I was right then as the winch leg swung out as she turned and hooked a tree. She didn't see it and continued to drive . When the winch fell against the seat she stopped.

I don't think the failures are the top link's fault... I think it's the wife LOL!
(Don't tell her I said that)
 
 

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