My Proto 6202A goes to just 750,3/4 drive on the output 1/2 drive on the input 227 in 750 out, but these multipliers can be dangerous if the bar that slips in the multiplier to hold it in place slips, it can break a leg or an arm.
Well considering I have seen it go both ways, if you have seen the opposite of me then you have seen it go both ways too
I only talked about the "impact for everything case" as there were a few people saying impact is the solution to pretty much everything. Impact is almost always my first tool of choice for anything like lugs or suspension and brakes, as the combo of vibration, impact and pure torque often solves the stuck fastener issue. When it works, which is the vast majority of times, it is fast and easy. But I have done impact on things that would not budge also, but the breaker bar did it, slow and steady. The most common case is if there is compliance in the system like some rubber bits or somewhat more flexible steel stampings. I suspect they dampen the vibrations enough to kill the effect of the impact, but a slow heavy pull will move them. The infamous Honda crank pulley bolt is another one.
Most I've run across is the nut (1 1/4"?) on my 6' RC's stump jumper. I've got a 1,200 lb-ft impact and it took all that to break that nut loose. Tightening specs is, I believe, something like 450 lb-ft.
And that kind of torque could twist your wrist off!
A cautionary note to be sure to brace yourself when using an impact.
Not really, the big one weighs about 45 pounds and has a 'D' handle the heaver the impact is, the less felt twist it imparts, just like a heavy rifle imparts less recoil. My little 1/2" drive IR don't even torque twist much and it's capable of 1250 foot pounds in reverse (removal torque) The 3/4 and 1" impacts also have side handle air inlets so the hose absorbs some of the twist torque as well.And that kind of torque could twist your wrist off!
We typically put flywheel gland nut on VW race engines at anywhere from 350 to 500ft-lbs.... Can be a real nasty job to remove after it's been on for a while.... And by the way a stock flywheel gland nut is typically 260ft-lbs (factory spec) ... The torque multiplier (my 4:1) is great when you only have to push torque wrench to 65ft-lbs to meet stock specs...
Yeah.... But is it calibrated for tightening a nut/bolt..... Multiplier and torque wrench is more accurate than numbers printed in "poop" sheet that comes with impact tool.....
Torque specs on my shredder blades are 600 ft. lbs. If they care enough to put that on the equipment, I care enough to follow it. Thanks, Robert.
In most cases a nut like that once it's off should be replaced and don't forget the anti-seize on the nut and what ever it attaches to.
LOL, reminds me of my then teen son when he drove a beetle and tinkered on it.
Yeah... Usually lose axle nut on VW causes the splines to be spun right out of brake drum... If it did not damage splines he got lucky...
