Total hydraulic Loss

[Rich Waugh]

The hydraulics on the Jinma are open-center systems and should be self-priming. You shouldn't need to open any lines, but it won't hurt anything either.

Your problem, from what I read, is that you're terribly low on hydraulic fluid. That single line on the lift box dipstick is the full mark. It is ready by unscrewing the dipstick, wiping it and then setting it back on top of the hole, but not screwing it back in. If you screwed it in to read it, you will be low because the dipstick is now down farther than intended. Since your fluid is well below that line, you're really low. It may take a couple or three gallons to get the level up where it should be, which is right to the line - with the stick resting on the hole, not screwed in.

Once you have filled with with the recommended AW32 hydraulic fluid, start it up and operate the steering and lift box controls - it should pull fluid and begin pumping within a minute or two. The lift box sump is just enough above the level of the hydraulic pump to prime it just fine if the lift box is properly filled.

 

[NorTracNY]

OK, so I went out and added more fluid and left the line below the seat cracked open. I then started the engine and tried to use the bucket. I had no luck and then cracked it at the pump itself. There was only a little fluid that came out, which was likely just what was at the line.

Rick - does your stick screw all the way down? No stick even came with the tractor from Northern, so I bought one from Affordable. It does not screw all the way down. I also have always had a little fluid come out every time I use it. One other question is, is it normal for me to need higher RPMs for more power in the hydraulics?
When I added more hydraulic fluid, I put it in with the filter out below where the seat is. I added till that section was full. If I add more, than it would mean that when correct amount of fluid is in the filter could not be removed without first draining a lot of the fluid. I use AW32 hydraulic fluid that is non-foaming (took a long time to find this!)

 

[Diamondpilot]

Lets make sure you have this right.

You have the sump full now. The pump pulls fluid from the sump through the strainer under the seal and through the solid steel line that runs down the right side of the tranny to the pump. From the pump there should be a short 12" or so piece of rubber hose with a Quick Connect on it.

Take the QC off and put that short piece of hose in a bucket. With everything else tightened up try cranking over the motor with the compression release engaged and the fuel shut off pulled out. This should allow the pump to pump fluid into the bucket without the motor starting. If it does not pump fluid the next step is to remove the pump and find out why? Could be a broken coupler or a pump that went south.

Chris

 

[rdbigfarmboy]

There was only a little fluid that came out, which was likely just what was at the line.

You still need to prime it, it sounds like oil is not getting to the pump and it can gravity feed once the AIR is removed. The pump should gush oil under some presssure.

 

[NorTracNY]

Lets make sure you have this right.

You have the sump full now. The pump pulls fluid from the sump through the strainer under the seal and through the solid steel line that runs down the right side of the tranny to the pump. From the pump there should be a short 12" or so piece of rubber hose with a Quick Connect on it.

Take the QC off and put that short piece of hose in a bucket. With everything else tightened up try cranking over the motor with the compression release engaged and the fuel shut off pulled out. This should allow the pump to pump fluid into the bucket without the motor starting. If it does not pump fluid the next step is to remove the pump and find out why? Could be a broken coupler or a pump that went south.

Chris

Thanks! I was backwards. I was loosening the ends of the solid line (input to the pump). Good to know I can just spin the motor with the compression released and move the hydraulic pump. I'm not certain if there is a QC on the output, but I'll check shortly.

So is it normal that the engine needs to run at higher RPMs for more power in the hydraulics?

 

[J_J]

If the pump is not worn badly, it should pump and provide the specified pressure/force at the git go.

Your tractor relief is probably set for 2200 psi.

You only get max pressure when you max out a cyl, or lifting a heavy load. The relief will activate at the relief pressure.

Rpm's is what provides the GPM's for the speed of operation.

If you are at idle, the hyd will work and should be able to lift the specified load. If at high rpm, the hyd will lift the specified load faster.



This night have some bearing on your problem.

Excerpt: from this manual. http://www.atlanticimports.ca/jinma_manual.pdf

Don't know where the asterisks came from.

1. The*pump*must*be*primed*and*will*not*normally*pickup*oil*from*the*filter*due*to*air*which*is*now*in
the*intake*line.*To*aid*in*priming*connect*the*2*mid*ship
hydraulic*quick*connects*together*by*disconnecting*the*FEL
and*butt*connect*them*together.*This*is*the*same*way*your
tractor*was*shipped*prior*to*installing*the*FEL.*If*you*do*not
have*an*FEL*then*this*is*not*necessary.*
2. Start*tractor*for*approximately*1*minute*and*check*for*leaks.
If*you*listen*carefully*you*should*hear*the*pump*pick*up*oil
almost*immediately*and*prime*itself.*Shut*off*the*tractor*after
1*minute.
1. The*pump*must*be*primed*and*will*not*normally*pickup*oil*from*the*filter*due*to*air*which*is*now*in
the*intake*line.*To*aid*in*priming*connect*the*2*mid*ship
hydraulic*quick*connects*together*by*disconnecting*the*FEL
and*butt*connect*them*together.*This*is*the*same*way*your
tractor*was*shipped*prior*to*installing*the*FEL.*If*you*do*not
have*an*FEL*then*this*is*not*necessary.*
2. Start*tractor*for*approximately*1*minute*and*check*for*leaks.
If*you*listen*carefully*you*should*hear*the*pump*pick*up*oil
almost*immediately*and*prime*itself.*Shut*off*the*tractor*after
1*minute.

If you install a hyd gage, you can observe the pressure required to operate the cyl on the tractor.

 

[greg_g]

x2, vented systems are self-priming. Don't waste time on that. But I gotta ask again - have you checked the level of your engine oil? If it's normal, then the pump seal is ok. But if it's not, any hydraulic fluid you add will eventually end up in the crankcase. If/when the level gets too high, the engine can hydro-lock.

//greg//

 

[NorTracNY]

x2, vented systems are self-priming. Don't waste time on that. But I gotta ask again - have you checked the level of your engine oil? If it's normal, then the pump seal is ok. But if it's not, any hydraulic fluid you add will eventually end up in the crankcase. If/when the level gets too high, the engine can hydro-lock.

//greg//

I actually didn't check that. I will when I get a chance tonight.

I will go ahead a see if it will priming it also. I'm really thinking that it is the gear pump at this point. From people's coments here is sounds like I've always had some problem that has now reached the failure stage. I've always experienced that I've needed to increase RPMs to get full power to the FEL. I've always had some hydraulic fluid leak out the vent hole in back of the seat.

Tonight I plan to check the engine oil. If that's fine I'll put the hose from the gear pump into a bucket and get the engine to turn with the compression lever up. If no hydraulic oil comes out, should I then remove the gear pump?

 

[NorTracNY]

Also, where is the pressure release on this tractor? I have one person saying that the gear pump could be ok, but the pressure release could be bad.

 

[greg_g]

Also, where is the pressure release on this tractor? I have one person saying that the gear pump could be ok, but the pressure release could be bad.

As stated, it's a vented system. No pressure release per se, except what's provided through the loader valves. There is a sort of a bypass in the sump that kicks in if/when the lift cylinder hits the stops, but - when the loader's not connected - that's about it.

//greg//