Buying Advice Total Newbies have no clue what size tractor to get?

[jeepfreak1972]

I agree with all the feedback I've been getting My starting budget is about 20k I have been looking around and have talked to a local dealer last time I was home and he showed me a Kioti tractor I want to say it was a 30 HP but I had no clue what I was looking at. Wasn't sure how Kioti stacked up to better known tractors such as JD and Kubota. I remember it had a FEL ( I actually understand what that is now !! ) and I believe he quoted me a price just north of 16k. I 'm not sure if thats good or bad. I have also seen some models like New holand 40 hp with a fel with less than a hundred hours on it for just over 17 k. I'll be leaving th ship I am currently sailing on with in the month and plan on checking out dealers throughout northern Florida to see what is available at what price. As far as the footers go I will probably rent the equipment I need beings it will be a one time event. The rest of the foundations will be just slab. My main cocerns are still Mowing post holes and driveway creation and maintenance. So if I need to wait and save a little longer I'm willing to do so. Is there a site I can go to to do side by side comparisons on tractors available in the 30 to 40 HP range?. Thanks again everyone your combined knowledge and input are really helping a lot. Thanks to all

Hello, ive been a member for quite a while, more of a gleaner than a poster but having been down this road ill give you my 2 cents.
Ive had 4 new diesel 4x4 tractors with FEL's since 2004. I finally have the one I will keep till its junk or im dead. I could have saved a lot of money and head ache if I had not talked myself out of a bigger tractor 3 times for what ever reason. Im in west Michigan on 10 acres of flat mostly loamy land. Some beach sand area in one corner. 60-70% wooded. Ive never owned a scut like a bx series Kubota, but operated a few before and after owning what I have.
My first tractor was a Kioti CK21 hst. R4 tires. Under powered for it weight. From there I went to a John Deere 2520hst with R4 tires. To light for its power and only a 2 range trans. Low was to slow alot of times and high was pretty useles except for unloaded travel. Next was a kubota B3200 hst. Finally got R1 Ag tires. Not ever going back. Hard on lawn but its not a mower for me. Finally had traction. 3 range trans way more useful than a 2 speed. I may have been happy with this tractor for good but it viberated so much it would make my hands and feet tingle even after the fixes that Kubota had for it. The small 4 cyl kubotas had this issue. Not sure if they still do. Not wanting a smaller lighter tractor, I tried out a new Kubota L3800 in 2011. I got it on my birthday of that year. Best choice ive made machine wise. Its hst with 3 range trans. All cast iron for more weight, lifts more than all my others, smooth 3cyl engine and very nimble for it's size. After operating this machine for 2 years, I used my neighbors kubota bx2320 in an area in the woods where I couldnt fit, its a great little tractor and serves a purpose, but there is no way, knowing what I know now, that would have a smaller tractor than the L3800 I have no matter what brand. For what I do with my tractor, which is FEL work and snow removal, the only way to go is HST 3 range trans, loaded R1 tires and enough weight to do much of the work in 2wd. I have never thought one time since owning the L3800, I wish my tractor was just a little bigger but that crossed my mined a bunch with the other 3.
Almost forgot, a suspension seat is a must in my opinion. The L series is the only tractor ive had with a suspension seat and its a God send. I could not believe how rough the little BX of my neighbors was in comparison.

 

[jeepfreak1972]

Now if money grew on trees, id have a Kubota bx along with my l3800 for mowing and really small task.

 

[Murphys Law Farmer]

Still a newbie here. It looks like everyone is talking you into a machine around 35 ish hp. And my machines are not new models that you will probably be looking at, so this may not apply. But I haven't seen it mentioned here. My first tractor/loader purchase was a JD 4100 w/ 20 hp. It's my opinion that the only reason you would buy this small a tractor is to get into tight spots and fit it into a small barn, or as a lawn mower (not field mower). With turf tires it's not too hard on the front lawn. And I can leave the FEL and manure spreader attached and still fit it into the barn. I do use it with a 3 point post hole digger--making that a 1 person job. I love the hydrostatic transmission when doing light work where I jump on and off a lot--rarely bothering to take it out of gear. Anyone can drive it--even my 91 year old mother (who can't figure out how to pump her own gas). 1 pedal for forward, another for reverse, only use the brakes when I get stuck. It's only a 2 range, so as mentioned before, low is too slow, and high has too little power. It can barely climb a slope pulling a full manure spreader. It's a rough ride on what "looks" like a smooth pasture. My biggest peeve is the under-sized category 1 rating. It's really more of a Cat. 0. It is hard to find nice rear (3-point) attachments that are cat. 0 sized, that are more than just toys. You should be looking for cat. 1, but measure it on a small tractor. My options are limited by how far apart I can get the lift arms before they rub on the tires. Since everything I have is at the outer limit of it's reach, it becomes a PITA to hook up and drop anything. I had to turn the pins around on my post hole digger, roto-tiller, and carry-all to put them on, but they are not as stable that way, and it's just not an option on some pieces. I recommend getting a tractor with the extendable / jointed ends on the 3 point arms--saves time and frustration when mounting implements. Another pain--the small stature of the tractor makes the draw bar too low. When I hook up the spreader, trailer, etc. the jacks don't drop low enough. Too make matters even worse, the smaller drawbar bent under the loaded spreader. Small tractors are for small jobs. Oh and despite it's small size, it won't fit into a shed or Barn-in-a Box structure because it's ROPS doesn't fold (some do).

Also not mentioned, some implements can use, or require hydraulics provided by your tractor. If so, you need one or more valves to operate them. I find the manufacturer's rear valves and controls handy rather than having to remove the FEL and run longer lines which hang under the tractor. Those won't be cheap to have the dealer add later if they weren't already on the tractor. Think some more on what implements you will WANT (not need) in the future and investigate them and their requirements for a tractor.

You mentioned the possibility of livestock. Think about what equipment you'll want for them too. On a few acres you probably won't be baling your own hay (requires more like 45 hp minimum). But I can cut my fields down a lot faster with a haybine than any brush hog. Mine uses 2 sets of hydraulic valves.
Livestock usually require hay--big round bales need good-sized tractors to move and stack. Small square bales don't need much. Sometimes more than one tractor is what you need to do everything. [Most farmers around here think if you have a tractor for each implement, you won't spend all day changing them out.] Two tractors sure makes loading the composted manure into the spreader for transport to and unloading in the veggie garden a lot easier than dropping / hooking twice for each load.

Best advice I ever heard was not to buy the tractor that only just meets the minimum specifications, buy at least one step up. You'll get your job done faster, easier, and put less stress on yourself and the equipment in the process. And the best way for a new small farmer to burn yourself out is to saddle yourself with tools that can't do the job, and make everything harder, take longer, and no fun. Farming (no matter how small) has enough learning curves to throw at you.

Oh, and I agree with whoever told you to go spend some saddle time on any prospective purchase. There are always the little things like can you and the wife both reach the pedals, or straighten your legs. My NH TN75DA cab tractor has a poor design flaw--the FEL joystick hits and catches on the door and door handle. On the JD the same hydraulic system and linkage controls the 3-point hitch as the belly mower. So I can't leave the belly mower or any part of it's linkage on while using a 3-point implement or it will drag on the ground when I lower the 3-point arms. Do lots of homework and shopping.

 

[TripleR]

Lots of good, very valuable information from some really knowledgeable people. I think absent the ability to own more than one machine, many if not most wind up with a compromise tractor and it seems you are in that situation. Best advice I can give is prioritize your uses and buy for that.

We have tractors from 22 to 85HP and still find a different machine would be "handy", just not practical to cover all bases.

I rent an excavator or tracked skid steer as it works better than owning a backhoe, I've owned one and found it was used to little to justify the cost; others find them invaluable.

I agree, don't worry about the pavers, we had a patio laid this year and the truck driver unloaded them. I kept the M8540 around a while to move them as needed, but got tired of having it tied up all the time and just had the landscaper move partial pallets as needed; it more work, but sure wouldn't buy based on the short or one time jobs.

My inclination is something the size of a Kubota B2650/3350 or Kioti, MF, LS etc. equivalent would do, but I can't guarantee it's better than what anyone else has recommended.

You might do well to rent something as close to what you want for a weekend to get a baseline for comparison if your tractor experience is limited; really more complicated than one would think as there are a LOT of machines that will work for you.

Good luck

 

[oldpilgrim]

Is there a site I can go to to do side by side comparisons on tractors available in the 30 to 40 HP range?.

TractorData.com - information on all makes and models of tractors

ought to be some help to you.

 

[TJP89]

TractorData.com - information on all makes and models of tractors

ought to be some help to you.

The Case IH site comparison tool can list the specs for up to 5 tractors, though one has to be a Case the others can be any brand, I found it real helpful. BTW, Case's new compact C series looks pretty good.

Compare Results

 

[flusher]

You need a CUT (compact utility tractor) 30-35 hp engine, hydrostatic tranny, power steering, dual hydraulic rear remotes, FEL with 5 or 6-ft wide bucket, ag tires. I'd get the FEL with the skid steer quick attach (SSQA) option and a tooth bar. Expect to spend about $20K if you buy new.

Good luck

 

[TSO]

The Case IH site comparison tool can list the specs for up to 5 tractors, though one has to be a Case, I found it real helpful. BTW, Case's new compact C series looks pretty good.

Compare Results

Don't forget, the FarmAll B & C is the LS R & XR series with C-NH loaders ... Just FYI.

 

[gladehound]

One thing I don't think I saw mentioned. If you are not sure what your future needs will be, buying you first tractor used might allow you to sell it later with less loss than if you buy knew. That gives you time/experience to figureout what you really need / want. I bought used and sold after 8 years. I sold it for $1200 less than I bought it. However, my budget was much more constrained than yours. You can get a nice tractor and probably everything you need with yoru $20K budget. As stated before, major features you might look for are 3 range hydrostatic, 25+ hp, 4wheel drive, quick attached loader.

Of note - I did all the things you are talking about doing with my 20 hp tractor for 8 years. It could do it. Sometimes it was slow. Sometimes I had to figure out odd ways of doing things. I often wished for a bigger tractor. I skipped the 25-35 hp range only because I didn't want to have that feeling again and got a 45hp tractor. 45 seems like enough for my tasks. Would 35 have been enough? I'll never know because I didn't want to find out that it wasn't.

 

[TSO]

One thing I don't think I saw mentioned. If you are not sure what your future needs will be, buying you first tractor used might allow you to sell it later with less loss than if you buy knew. That gives you time/experience to figureout what you really need / want. I bought used and sold after 8 years. I sold it for $1200 less than I bought it. However, my budget was much more constrained than yours. You can get a nice tractor and probably everything you need with yoru $20K budget. As stated before, major features you might look for are 3 range hydrostatic, 25+ hp, 4wheel drive, quick attached loader.

Of note - I did all the things you are talking about doing with my 20 hp tractor for 8 years. It could do it. Sometimes it was slow. Sometimes I had to figure out odd ways of doing things. I often wished for a bigger tractor. I skipped the 25-35 hp range only because I didn't want to have that feeling again and got a 45hp tractor. 45 seems like enough for my tasks. Would 35 have been enough? I'll never know because I didn't want to find out that it wasn't.

That's a good point ... I also started too small, and have worked my way up. I didn't go the "used" route though ... I went thru new machines. Luckily, I bought & sold well and didn't lose much money.