total weight of CK 3510 HST loaded rear ag's = ?

[goatram]

1. Electric trailer Brakes
2. Reload your trailer with said tractor; Go to the truck scale on the interstate. (in my Washington State they are always on and when Unmanned) you have to weigh the axles together, individually, and the tongue at ride height. Need to balance the load on the trailer, axles need to be equal, i.e. move tractor fwd or aft to achieve it. 10% of total weight of the trailer needs to be on the hitch, to figure, you have to unhitch the trailer and set it up at the same ride height as if it was on the hitch of your truck.

On the weekends or evenings there is less traffic at the weigh stations. and the state has had no issues with me playing with my trailers. I have a 15,000 triple axle Boat Trailer, a 2 axle car trailer made from a old boat trailer. I tow with a F350 Dually. In 2014 I traded in my 2011 dually for a Single Rear Wheel truck(SRW). First time pulling my boat I realized my mistake. My F350 SRW got pushed around. Mar 2015 traded for a new dually. My boat trailer has Kodiak Disk Brakes with Electric over Hydraulic actuator. Car Trailer is 12 inch drum electric brakes. Washington state law requires brakes on one axle. Canada requires brakes on all wheels. While stationed in Georgia I had a Homemade two axle race car trailer with no brakes. Bought it used. It used House Trailer Axles and Tires. Back then I was a young man with limited money that used old worn out equipment that others tossed or I found used.

I disagree with your opinion; Washington State is Gods Country in the summer, Low Humidity and in the 70's most days and the sun does shine in the summer.

 

[mtsman2]

1. Electric trailer Brakes
2. Reload your trailer with said tractor; Go to the truck scale on the interstate. (in my Washington State they are always on and when Unmanned) you have to weigh the axles together, individually, and the tongue at ride height. Need to balance the load on the trailer, axles need to be equal, i.e. move tractor fwd or aft to achieve it. 10% of total weight of the trailer needs to be on the hitch, to figure, you have to unhitch the trailer and set it up at the same ride height as if it was on the hitch of your truck.

On the weekends or evenings there is less traffic at the weigh stations. and the state has had no issues with me playing with my trailers. I have a 15,000 triple axle Boat Trailer, a 2 axle car trailer made from a old boat trailer. I tow with a F350 Dually. In 2014 I traded in my 2011 dually for a Single Rear Wheel truck(SRW). First time pulling my boat I realized my mistake. My F350 SRW got pushed around. Mar 2015 traded for a new dually. My boat trailer has Kodiak Disk Brakes with Electric over Hydraulic actuator. Car Trailer is 12 inch drum electric brakes. Washington state law requires brakes on one axle. Canada requires brakes on all wheels. While stationed in Georgia I had a Homemade two axle race car trailer with no brakes. Bought it used. It used House Trailer Axles and Tires. Back then I was a young man with limited money that used old worn out equipment that others tossed or I found used.

I disagree with your opinion; Washington State is Gods Country in the summer, Low Humidity and in the 70's most days and the sun does shine in the summer.

I do have electric trailer brakes. I would not have been able to do this tow without those working.
I moved the unit on the trailer about 3 times to get the tongue weight close. The loader restricted me from placing the unit closer to the trailer gate which would create a perfect axle balance. But during the tow I never felt I had too much or too little tongue weight. It was close, maybe not perfect but close. I rarely tow (would rather be fishing, hunting, hiking, biking, farming, swimming, campfireing, spending time with friends, and just about anything else) but if I do it again I do understand what you are saying and will set it up on the scale then unhitch the trailer, check the weight, make a parking mark for the rear tire, etc. thanks for tip.

BTW, "God's county" is not an opinion, its a fact: :thumbsup: Has been named that for at least 50 years and IT IS SPOT ON.

 

[mtsman2]

resurrected!

Last summer I added an EA tooth bar, (+#65) and gosh that thing work GREAT! Aggressive!
Then I noticed sometimes with a full bucket my rear end was still too light. So purchased 2 Kioti wheel weights for each side. Supposedly #80 each, so #160 x 2 = #320 plus some big a$$ bolts to attach weights to the spider/center I am probably about +#325 total. I have my rear 2 piece wheel configured for about 60" width. With the spiders/centers in this width configuration it makes it hard to bolt on the weights but eventually muscled it together, lol.

#4300 + #65 + 325 = #4685...Just in case anyone wishes to know for the future. That includes all the equip listed in OP, + EA tooth bar, +2 #80 wheel weights each side of Ag tires, and the Ag tires only filled 1/2 way (15gals each).

When I add my #700 Kodiak tiller on the 3pt I am just under #5400. At that weight it can REALLY push some ****, gets GREAT traction, and zero issues with full bucket. I now have a really low Vertical C of G and this thing moves like a Billy Goat on my slopes! Perfect set up for my needs.

Don’t laugh too hard at my dinky wood cart . My neighbor was borrowing my single axle wood trailer.

 

[_RaT_]

I believe you will be fine - and yes I believe their specs are a little under - I'm not sure if they account for a "full" tank, or hydro fluid etc. or tires that are over 75% maybe (80+?) they fill them to what they feel is close / correct, I did not see any real measuring device used. I know mine must be over 75, as the valve releases some fluid when checked (valve at 12). Nor do they account for a 100+lb cutting edge, tools, drawbar/pats quick hitch set up etc etc - it all adds up - mine was a quick weigh in, basically to see who was right - I did the same thing you did, added up with the charts, actually came up with around 4700 - I asked my dealer what he thought and he said he'd bet a lot closer to five - he was right..... But again, I was not checking for "factory" weight I was interested in what my actual use weight was, with the edge, quick hitch, tools, fire extinguisher etc etc......

I like to fill the rear tires to just over the top of the rim to keep the steel submerged and not exposed to air and still allow room for the compression need to keep the tire from being potentially damaged.

 

[Rebeldad1]

you can also take some weight off the trailer axles by moving the tractor forward on the trailer. adds the weight to the truck.

 

[mtsman2]

you can also take some weight off the trailer axles by moving the tractor forward on the trailer. adds the weight to the truck.

Thx RD. Yes you can.

sometimes Moving it too far forward on the trailer has created too much tongue weight for me which has it’s own associated issues.

 

[mtsman2]

I like to fill the rear tires to just over the top of the rim to keep the steel submerged and not exposed to air and still allow room for the compression need to keep the tire from being potentially damaged.

Thx. My other units have the tire filled to just over the top of the rim. I chose not to do that with this kioti.
Maybe Two years ago now we had about a 7 page post that discussed filling rears 1/2 way vs filling to top of rim. I feel that filling these 1/2 way + adding wheel weights has created a better static Vertical C of G for my slopes/needed uses.