Touch up or paint?

[radios1]

My 94' Kubota is missing some paint and I'm wondering if I can do a touch up / spray it or do I need to commit to full paint job. If the answer is "paint job" I don't think I can commit to such project anytime soon.

if you have an auto body shop paint it, you won't have to commit to it. they'll paint the whole tractor properly, and much faster than you could..

 

[4570Man]

if you have an auto body shop paint it, you won't have to commit to it. they'll paint the whole tractor properly, and much faster than you could..

And probably charge more than the tractor is worth.

 

[LouNY]

You can see it quite often on some of the "restored" antiques some of them will have paint jobs you can see yourself in,
I've heard people talking putting $3-4000 and more in paint jobs and half of those the mechanicals aren't as good as some with
several thousand hours of use on them.
Then there are some with high end paint and mechanical but they are afraid to get them dirty,
and they wouldn't dare get into a pull or plow competition.

 

[fried1765]

They don稚 offer 26 year old sun faded paint but it would still look a lot better with a rattle can paint job.

I believe that 26 year old sun faded Kubota paint is commonly described as "MARY KAY PINK" .

While rattle can paint does offer some protection, it is a far better idea to take the time to fire up the compressor, and use real equipment enamel.

 

[draku007]

Guys, thank you for convincing me to tackle another project and now I do plan to properly paint the tractor. I read a ton of posts and watched some videos on "tractor painting DIY" and here is my plan:
1. use degreaser to get the old grease off and power wash with degreaser soap to wash the entire tractor (any recommendations on degreaser?)

2. sand it all and use primer
- I have small 2.6 Amp Corded 5 in. Random Orbital Sander . Is that powerfully enough to send the tractor or do I need a "bigger boat"?

3. use Kubota OEM paint
- orange 2 (1 gal)
- chassis grey (1 gal)
- rattle for the ROPS
- Xylene thinner
- hardener (not sure which one yet and open to suggestions)

4. Use HVLP gravity sprayer - here is where I need some help as some people say that you MUST HAVE really good sprayer and others claim that $20 harbor freight is all you need for this job. I never owned and used paint sprayer (I own compressor) so I'm lost on which direction to go. Can I use one for the primer and paint or need 2 different sizes?

I'm not looking for show room finish but would like the old rusty body to last another 10+ years and look good. In addition to the tractor and front loader I'll be painting my Woods 7500 backhoe with subframe.

 

[KennyG]

I don't claim to be an expert painter, but I have painted a few cars, trailers, etc. with minimal equipment and decent results.

I do mostly hand sanding. Rust problems I scrape, wire brush, flap disc etc and then sand. Don't be afraid to start with very course grits and don't go past 400 so you have a good bite for the primer. Don't skimp on the primer quality but you don't need OEM Dupont, etc. I've used both Eastwood products and paint from PaintforCars.com and had good results.

I've done all my work recently with Harbor Freight guns ($10 on sale). They aren't ideal but they work. You should have a bigger orifice gun for primer but the HF only comes in 1.4 size and I've used it for everything with acceptable results. That said, I'm thinking of getting a better setup because my next project has a fiberglass body and I will need to use high build primer and will be spraying a metallic final coat. Whatever you do, don't be afraid to turn the pressure up and make sure your compressor has plenty of capacity. The specs for HVLP guns are at the spray head (which you can't measure) and not the air tank. You need plenty of pressure and you need to stay at 6 inches or so from the surface to avoid lots of orange peel.

Now the warning. Paint products are toxic. I use two stage systems with a clearcoat. These are isocyanate materials which require a fresh air breathing hood. I don't like painting anything with a spray gun without my fresh air system. Theoretically you can do single stage paints with only a breathing mask, but be careful. As for hardener, use whatever the paint supplier recommends.

 

[spitter]

It's a work tractor not a trailer queen right. The worst that's gonna happen with a inexpensive gun might be poor atomization of paint and poor fan pattern . Which might take you longer or you might get some orange peel . I have sprayed tons of stuff with a I.R. $100 spray gun and not even considered buying a Sata or Iwata only downfall of inexpensive guns is that the tips usually ain't interchangeable for different viscosity paint . Once you get your confindence that you can do this you might find yourself painting lots of other rusting fading things around the house. Good luck.:thumbsup::drink:

 

[draku007]

Old post but I owe an update to everyone who contributed. New fenders and all other small parts around them including ROPS were painted. Floor and backhoe also painted.
baby steps but the 30 years old baby is starting to look young again.

 

[LouNY]

looks good.

 

[spitter]

Good job If you could give a quick sinopous of what type of paint and process you used it might be helpful to the next guy.