tow strap or chain?

[sendero]

I'm still new to tractoring, and have another question.

One of the things I'll be doing a lot of is pulling trees around. Fallen logs mostly, but I'm also thinking about trying to pull some old dead trees out of my pond.

I'm trying to weigh the relative merits of chain vs. nylon strap. It seems to be a slam dunk for strap - a 3" one can pull unbelievable weight and is cheaper than heavy chain.

Also, I've seen what happens when a chain breaks under stress, and would prefer to not be around when that happens. Of course, I'm sure strap could do damage also...

Comments?

 

[Bird]

The straps are definitely good for a lot of things, but for the work you're talking about, I much prefer chains or cables, primarily because I would expect the straps to get wet, dirty, frayed, torn, etc. Having a chain break can certainly do some damage, but for the size tractor you have, you shouldn't have a hard time finding chains that will hold more than you pull.

 

[mikim]

I agree with Bird on this one - the straps are cheaper & lighter - but once they fray or get torn, you have a severe weak spot. I've snapped a strap before (it had a little tear where it snapped) but I've never broken a chain. I still have a couple of straps though and prefer them for towing vehicles - they're a little more forgiving for that - but for downed trees - I want chain. .... and if you work with a 50 foot heavy duty chain all day - you can skip your upper body workout that night /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[dourobob]

Yep - what Bird and Mikim said

My understanding is, unless you are taking up the slack in a chain with a "running start" from your tractor, a break is more likely to leave the chain laying on the ground with a LOT less backlash than could be created by the "forgiveness" quality of a nylon strap.

Each have their place but for trees and the like, I say chain is the way to go. .. and there is something to be said for the workout benefit /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bob

 

[Richard]

My machine might be a touch bigger than yours, but I got this Square Link Chain from Labonville as suggested by Mark Chalkley.

I got the top one, the square link. I have a choker on one end and slip hook on the other end. I got a 25 foot length.

Might be over kill, but it's my neck. Furthermore... it was suggested by Mr. Chalkey that the square links really grab into the tree, rather than slip... I can vouch for that. I now know that once I get that choker end around something that the chain is essentially going to stay put and SOMETHING is going to give... either the chain /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif, Brutus /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif or /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif the tree I'm yanking around /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif. So far, the tree/stump/log/other has lost the battle every time.

My vote is get some of this. It's fairly strong, and seems to grab better than a cat on carpet /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif (my Mothers cat anyway... but then... it's an indoor cat and has been declawed.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

Richard

 

[sendero]

I suspected you guys were gonna say this, so I'm giving myself some credit /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Ok, now that we are on the chain page, how strong should it be (and no, I won't *intentionally* be taking any running starts /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif)

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Sendero.

I'm a fan of straps over chains for a lot of things. I like them because they're lighter, cleaner, easier to tighten down, etc. For what you're going to be doing, however, I agree with Bird. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

For working and doing what you're talking about, I always use a chain. I can wrap it around rough, sharp edged bark, drag it through the mud and crud, across sharp rocks and through stones and not hurt it at all. Straps just aren't made for that kind of abuse.

Make sure you get a heavier chain than you think you ought to need. Something too heavy to break under the most strain your tractor can put on it is ideal. That way when you do something you shouldn't (like trying to 'jerk' something free), it'll still hold up for you. If you're still concerned about the whip effect of one breaking, hang a heavy coat or blanket over it near the middle.

Besides all of the obvious, logical reasons there's something just a lot more macho about using a chain. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Make sure you get yourself some good work gloves to wear when you're using it. You'll really appreciate them the first time a bit of glove gets pinched in the chain and you realize that could have been part of your hand. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Good luck with your project. It sounds like fun. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[dourobob]

I am not sure of the rating on mine 'cause I bought at an auction but I knew the farmer and he used it behind a 120 HP tractor to pull, trees, rocks and anything else he could get it around.

It shows virtually no wear after 20+years and I have dug in all 4 wheels in my 52 HP tractor without moving a few of the bigger rocks in some of my fence rows.

I tend to err on the side of "so it should never break" when it comes to these things and I believe mine qualifies. A neighbour said he thought it was a 5/8" Grade 80 or Grade 100 which should be somewhere in the 18,000 lbs + area for capacity. It is a bit of a workout as mentioned by Mikim if you are using it all day but I feel confident when using it so I think the trade off is worth it.

FWIW
Bob

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I've got probably a dozen or more chains of various configurations and not a one of them I bought new. Most of them either came from farm auctions or with tow/recovery vehicles. I'd think something like grade 70 transport chain would offer you a great combination of strength and light weight. I made up some short lengths of that with clevis hooks on either end to use as 'chain shorteners' for my longer chains and have never, ever had a failure.

It's the same chain I've used to pull a rolled truck up a steep riverbank so I don't think dragging logs around will be too much for it. Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[mikim]

<font color="blue">Make sure you get yourself some good work gloves to wear when you're using it </font>
GOOD POINT ! But even more 'cause he's in Texas like me and when you grab that chain after it's been in the sun for just a short while -- YEOW -- sure don't take long to look at a chain when it's that hot ! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Bird]

Gary, sounds like the ones I sold last Fall. I had 3/8" chain in 4' and 10' lengths with hooks on both ends that I bought new. But I also had three 20' lengths, one which a brother-in-law found on the road and two I inherited from my dad, so have no idea how old they were or what grade they were. But I never broke one.

 

[sendero]

gotcha on the work gloves /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Last time I was at my place, we got a little rain so I decided to burn one of my brush piles. It was about burned down and I picked up my 10' "poker log" to push everything to the middle. I barely got the thing off the ground before I felt a sting like I hadn't felt since I was a kid who touched a Hackberry asp /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif That sting was still hurting pretty good hours later at bedtime.

That **** scorpion was still there 10 minutes later, sitting there on the log like nothing happened.

The point of this pointless story?

When I ran inside and informed my loving wife, she said "I told you to wear gloves when you are messing with that brush!" /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Of course, she was right. And I WILL be wearing my work gloves a lot more from now on.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have broken log chains and stretched chains,ever seen one stretched?

 

[Bird]

I've seen some pretty small chains stretched, but not any of the larger ones.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have 2- 30,00lb straps that when connected give ne 70' of length. I like that for getting cars/trucks unstuck. You need the length to insure that you can get the tower onto better ground then the towee. The 70' would be very heavy in chain and the chains are gentler on the components of the stuck vehicle. One you pull them taught the sort of rubber band the stuck vehicle out with very little effort. I keep the bed toolbox lid open in case it snaps and keep the windows up just to give a little extra protection.

For pulling brush the chains are safer and your not worried about damaging what you connect them to(brush). They also don't fray, pick up brambles, get wet etc.

The chains would be great for the brush and keep the strap for pulling you tractor out if/when it gets stuck.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I've seen smaller ones stretched, too, but, like Bird, never a larger one. Anything I get that even looks like it might have a problem (stretched, bent, twisted, chipped, cut or damaged links) either becomes one or two shorter chains or is passed on down the line to someone who wants to use it just to secure something from theft.

I've got one monster chain that was my Dad's that I hate to even get out because the thing is so ungodly heavy. It has a clevis on one end and a slip hook on the other and must be 15'-20' long. It would stop my little 4200 in it's tracks if I hooked onto something solid. It'll be the one I get out to pull stumps if I ever get a dozer out there. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Egon]

I'd go for a 3/8 in. transport grade chain with a grab hook and a slip hook.

Usless trivial information: Up here on construction sites you can't use chains for lifting. The yield point of the chain material can be exceeded without streching the links. Visual inspection will not see anything.

Egon

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have a big log chain that belonged to my father,I rolled a stump/dirtball off of a bank on to the edge of the road,I thought no problem dragging it down a small grade on black top with my 4400...wrong...my neighbor came out with his Massey Ferguson 54(?) hp 4wd drive and hooked on it and sat there and spun,well we had my JD 4400 and his Massey hooked up in tandem and barely moved the thing,we ended up hooking his Ford F-150 4 wd onto my JD 4400 and I was hooked up to his Massey Ferguson tires squeeling going down a grade on black top,and moved the stump about 50' and managed to get the stump rolled over in the ravine and darn near took my tractor with it,when the stump started rolling with the chain hooked to the stump and under my blade on my tractor.The stump and dirt ball was not really that big,but the weight of dirt can be deceiving. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
The other time I broke a chain and stretched another log chain, I had my JD 4400 about to slide over a hill and a guy I know brought his 4wd John Deere backhoe over to help me out. He positions his hoe and reaches out as far as he can with his bucket to reach me and we hooked 2 chains together,1 chain hooked to the "finger" on the bucket and the end of the other chain to my tractor and he pulled my tractor up over the bank and back on the road (after I had unhooked my JD 45 blade and had to roll it over the hill to get it out of the way) The back hoe operator sat there and wiped the sweat off of his head in a sigh of relief after the tractor was back on the road.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> a 3/8 in. transport grade chain with a grab hook and a slip hook </font>

And here it is in the light but strong grade 70 from AWDirect. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[manganos]

One thing to keep in mind is only to use either a strap OR a chain. Never use a chain and a strap. I guy down the road hooked a chain around a tree and attatched a strap to the chain. He pulled and the strap gave a little. The chain broke free and came back at him. The chain hit the tractor and almost put a hole through the rear seat. He was alright but lesson learned /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif