tow strap or chain?

Gary_in_Indiana · Jun 6, 2003

It sounds like your buddy used a 'recovery' or 'snatch' strap. Those are designed to stretch then 'snatch' the vehicle being recovered. If he had it on the tow vehicle and the chain on the vehicle being recovered, stretched that out and then the chain came loose on the far end he's lucky to be able to tell the story. The problem was not the two different materials being used together. The problem was he didn't have the chain properly secured to the vehicle being recovered. Operator error, plain and simple.

I've used straps and chains together on any number of occasions without any problems. The hooks on my straps close around whatever you put in them so slack doesn't cause anything to come unhooked.

Heck, I've used straps and chain and CABLE together with no problems. The key is how you connect them together and secure everything. Tying a knot in a strap over a hook on a chain or putting the loop on a strap over an open hook is not the answer. Towing and recovery is serious business. If you don't do everything right, someone's going to get hurt. If you don't know exactly what you're doing, get help or hire it done.

I'm as much for self-sufficiency as anyone, but this is serious business. I've seen a cable break under a load and cut through all the glass and three of the four pillars on a class 6 recovery vehicle. The only thing that prevented a tragedy was the grace of God. The driver was standing on the opposite side from where the cable came back. Had he been on the other side of the bed, he'd have been cut in half. As it was, he was lucky, Most of the energy had been absorbed by the cab and the operator was left with only a broken arm and bruised ribs.

I know it's not cheap to call a pro out but it's not cheap hiring everything done after you lose a limb or two, either.

banjobj · Jun 6, 2003

I use both, but in this case I would use the heavy duty chain.

Egon · Jun 7, 2003

Way back when I used to work in the oilfields. The trucks all had tow ropes with chains at the ends. After numerous cases of metal flying through windows and radiators all the chains were removed and tow hooks were installed on the vehicles. It alleviated the problem a little but broken rope could still make its way through a window. This was exspecially feasable if two ropes were hooked ogether. The mass of rope where the two loops were looped made for a real good impact.
The operators were backing trucks bumper to bumper and taking a run when trying to pull out vehicles. It finnally resulted in the operators having to call a tow truck when they got stuck but the tow ropes remained. The radio calls could be interesting when someone who was stuck was calling for a tow without calling a tow truck.

All equipment must be used in a sensible fashion or something will break.

Egon

buck1 · Jun 10, 2003

Chain

Gatorboy · Jun 10, 2003

The strap is the way to go.

I have been using the same strap for pulling trees, stumps and brush for 3 years now and it still works as well as day 1.

With the strap, you don't have that instant pull you get with a chain. It is also alot easier to carry around -- unless you are into weight lifting. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Chief · Jun 10, 2003

Be carefull pulling with that strap. It can stetch enough to break and slingshot back at you to give you a pretty good shot.

MDSteve · Jun 11, 2003

If you are going to be dragging stuff like large trees and brush piles I say chain. The strap will rub on the ground and rocks and will wear out in time. I have gone thru 3 straps in the past year or so. The chain works great but is heavy to carry around. I keep a strap on the tractor just in case I need it but if I know I will be doing some heavy work I break out the chain. I recommend both.

Steve

Gatorboy · Jun 11, 2003

Interesting....I am using an 85 HP Tractor to pull all sorts of trees, stumps, etc., and my strap has yet to break. Are you guys buying the correct strap? I can't see how your compact tractors could pull hard enough to break one (unless you tore the strap to weaken it).

varmint · Jun 11, 2003

For what it's worth, I tried a tow strap to pull out some big, unwanted (is there any other kind?) multi-flora, and quickly learned that when the roots "give" the elasticity of the strap launches them at you. The chain I bought (grade 70 transport chain, 20' of 5/16" chain, rated at 4900 lbs working load, $30 at Lowes) works just fine, and no ducking. I'd say chain for pulling at anchored loads, no question!

buck1 · Jun 11, 2003

You just hit the nail on the head...people don't check for fraying like they should and if they do check they might misidentify a failure point. If the strap is in good condition it will most likely tow what the manufacturer says it'll tow. However, there's a greater possibility of damage to a strap than to chains given what this person wants to do with it.

Mark4510 · Jun 19, 2003

Though I have looked at other posts I dont see an answer to my question. Perhaps the experts can assist.
I am going to weld some grab hooks on the HD bucket of my JD 4510 to use a 5/16 grade 70 transport chain to pull downed trees around. When I look at local suppliers all I see, in the 5/16 size for weldable hooks, are much lower grades. Is that an issue? Do I need to try to find a grade 70 hook to match? Also, am I really making a mistake by using 5/16 when I should be using 3/8's?

Bird · Jun 19, 2003

I don't know whether you're making a mistake or not, Mark, but I used mostly 3/8" chain (don't even know what grades they were) and that's the size I'd want. I also don't remember what grade my hooks were; got them at TSC so I suspect maybe 43, but I never broke a chain or hook.

Mark4510 · Jun 19, 2003

Great advice Bird. Better safe than sorry. I will look into 3/8 all the way around.
Mark

Anonymous Poster · Jun 19, 2003

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am going to weld some grab hooks on the HD bucket of my JD 4510 to use a 5/16 grade 70 transport chain to pull downed trees around. When I look at local suppliers all I see, in the 5/16 size for weldable hooks, are much lower grades. Is that an issue? Do I need to try to find a grade 70 hook to match? )</font>

I suspect grade 70 chain and/or hooks can't be welded without losing the grade 70 rating. If that is in fact true, it would explain the lack of grade 70 weldable hooks.

SnowRidge

JerryG · Jun 19, 2003

I have always used 5/16 chain and I have the same size hooks on my loader. These under 40 hp compacts just don't have the traction and torque to break this size of chain. I pull posts, logs and have pull a TO 30 tractor with all the wheels froze up and have never had any problems. And besides, I had to mess with heavy chain. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Gary_in_Indiana · Jun 19, 2003

Mark,

I regularly use these grade 40 weldable hooks on vehicle recovery, towing and hauling equipment with grade seventy chain. Not only have I never had a problem, I've never, ever heard of anyone in the entire industry experiencing a failure on the hooks. A bad weld, possibly...but not the hooks if properly installed. For what it's worth these hooks with grade seventy transport chain are approved by OSHA and the NHTSB. I think they ought to pass the 'loader bucket log dragging test' with no troubles whatsoever.

As to the sizes, I use the larger 3/8" hooks for one simple reason. A 3/8" hook will hold 3/8" chain and 5/16" chain. A 5/16" hook will only accomodate 5/16" chain so if you have a 5/16" hook and 3/8" chain you're in trouble.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mark4510 · Jun 20, 2003

Thanks all. That really does help. I will get started once I swap out to the HD bucket.

Again, thanks for the advice!

Anonymous Poster · Jun 26, 2003

Gary-Indiana:
I use grab hooks 5/16" welded on several pcs of equipment. They work best for me because I have chains of 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8", and they all are compatible with the 5/16" hook.
Never had a problem dropping a 3/8" chain on these hooks.
jim

Anonymous Poster · Jun 27, 2003

When pulling logs or other long objects that I want to move lenghtwise I put 2 half hiches on the object. This give the chain 2 areas of high friction as the link in the bite of the half hich is pushed into the log. This is easy to get on and off.

It is important to rember to attach the chain to a pulling point on the tractor that is below the center line of the driving wheels to keep the front end from walking up on you. If the draw bar is set up so it can rise it is not a good pulling point as it will pull to the same line as the middle of the driving wheels.

Have a good time.