Ning just included that picture about 4 posts above you.ever see the advertisement with the front wheel drive car towing a trailer with the rear wheels off the ground?? !
Ning just included that picture about 4 posts above you.ever see the advertisement with the front wheel drive car towing a trailer with the rear wheels off the ground?? !
No, the load goes to the front wheels as well.Close, but no cigar The weight distribution hitch also puts weight on the trailer axles. The longer the spring bar, the more weight gets transferred to the trailer.
I may be misunderstanding what you mean, but if by "load leveler" you mean something like airbags you're grossly mistaken. Airbags and the like are no substitute for a WDH and proper load distribution. Leveling up the load with bags does not generally make weight distribution any better, i.e. fix tongue weight or front axle load issues. In some cases it makes it worse! Just makes it appear better.load leveller / weight distribution hitch. = the same thing!
In most cases one is required for loads over 5000 pounds.
You're both right and both saying the same thingNo, the load goes to the front wheels as well.
Weight Distributing Hitch is a misnomer. It is a Load Distributing Hitch. Weights do not move but the loads on the axles are moved.
Yes, I know that part of it. I have a hitch on my Suburban that's rated for 10,000# but the max tow rating is 8100#.You'll find that a typical class IV or class V trailer hitch will have different ratings depending on the use or non-use of a weight-distributing hitch.
It doesn't affect the base vehicle's tow ratings, but you're not allowed to exceed the capacity of the hitch, either, even if you're within the limits of the truck.
Must be a regional thing...load leveller / weight distribution hitch. = the same thing!
In most cases one is required for loads over 5000 pounds.
load leveller / weight distribution hitch. = the same thing!
In most cases one is required for loads over 5000 pounds.
Ive always had Ford twin I beam. Can't put so much on rear that it lifts the front. I like a straight axle 4x4 best.Yes, I agree except it is more than 2" on most pickup trucks and most loads. Depends on load of course ! In my experience with a typical 4WD pickup (springs-wise) and a GVWR load [trailer and what's on it combined] of around 8 to 10K lbs you want about 5 or 6" of drop in the back of the truck. The more total towed weight the more tongue weight you need. There are guidelines for % of the load that tongue weight should be (undoubtedly mentioned somewhere in the 109 posts above) but I never look at it that way. Like you I eyeball it and adjust to suit.
But a LOT of misinformation gets dribbled in.Thank you! You convinced me. The more I think about it, the less I think I need a trailer for my tractor. The cost of the trailer plus the cost of a truck with enough power to tow it just doesn't make sense in my case. I can pick up attachments from Arkansas (nearest EA free ship about 80 miles from me) with a smaller trailer. I can use a small trailer for a lot of stuff around my property. I can tow anything I need with a smaller truck like a Tacoma. I also can afford to wait a year or two. Who knows, by then Toyota may have their hybrid and EV trucks available.
I've an F350 dually. When I tow it was with either a Hudson 12K rated trailer, filled to the brim, (or my "new" 10K rated cargo trailer for the last trip), from Va. to Ms and back. Probably 15 times in the last 10 years. Never once had to go through the scales.Most trailers are not fully compliant. If you buy a heavy duty 3/4 ton truck, you will have to go through the scales. The Highway Patrolman will let you know if you are non-compliant.
Disagree, My F350 and MANY trucks are set up so they are butt high unloaded.When towing a bumper hitch trailer the rear of the truck should remain at the same level as when unloaded. This is what the wheel alignment is set up for. Adjustments come with the load leveller ( an item required for the heavier loads over 5000 pounds ?? ) or air bags.