Track Tensioner won't take grease. What do I do ?

[3930dave]

They are cheap but if you don't have one sitting there it takes a LOT longer to drive to town (for us country guys/girls) to buy one then just cleaning everything out.....

True enough.

I went to change 2 zerks on my old tractor when I first got it. As I wouldn't have been the first guy to shear the head off a zerk fitting, I soaked them in penetrating oil first. For laughs, tried 'em one more time, sure enough the original fittings now took grease fine.

Esp. on a newer fitting, I'd first just soak it for a day or so with penetrating oil - if it's just hardened grease, that may do it.

Rgds, D.

 

[Xfaxman]

The first thread on the LocknLube: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/oil-fuel-lubricants/304889-locknlube-cupler-grease-gun.html

 

[Sprinklerman]

Sometimes I hit the area around the zerk with some heat .

 

[BHD]

If one goes the grease zerk opener route, IPA Grease Fitting Cleaner | Hoses, Valves Fittings| Northern Tool + Equipment

fill the tool with a solvent, diesel fuel, I have had about 50% success with this type of tool when I started to use a solvent type fluid in it,

and if it does not work then it back ot takeing out the zerk and using drill bits to remove the old grease, (no power tools, jsut twist with your hand to clean out the passage, and it it deeper and the passage is pluged at the opening of the passage internaly then take it apart to the place one can clean it up

and or if it pressure related being closed off, moving it so the grease can pass, (on one machine it is wore a little and the pressure seals off the passage, rotate the shaft a bit and it give clearance so grease will pass,

when I make a bushing I will usually make a ring cut in the pin so there is a place for grease to flow around the bushing and not dependent for just one location for grease exit,

and depending on how the machine is designed and it is working in dirt, dirt and grease can harden up like concrete, and some times mechanical removal of the old is about the only way to open it up, some times the solvent method works, and some times the locking grease nozzle will let one provide enough pressure to force it open,

 

[Sodo]

WCDad I recommend that you study up on your track tensioner system before heading out to the woods. If that track is loose, it will come off. Then you're really in for a crash course on track tension. Especially the track comes comes off the wheels in a mudhole or in heavy brush - it can be no fun to put back on. If it won't tension your machine may be stuck there until you get the tension system working. I have a hard time believing a track tensioner zerk could be plugged. Some track tensioners don't have a removable zerk, such as the one pictured below.

Notice that this one has a tapered "seat" like a brake bleeder. It has a slot to release the grease, so you unscrew it partway to open the 'seat' then more turns and it exposes the thread-slot to release the grease, then the track can be slacked. I was able to jam a short log between the track and the dozer blade using hydraulics to shove my track tensioner back (which squirted grease out the slot). Of course you can unscrew it all the way too but don't drop it into the mud.

On this one, you can see the zerk is not replaceable. http://a.co/bL3V39z

If you post the model of excavator you may get a higher level of assistance. Zerks have a specific thread. To replace them the new zerk must be the same thread, either US or metric. Usually it's much faster to poke it from the outside, then unscrew it, dig it out with wire, put it back. Sometimes where exposed they can be damaged, or corroded from non-use, in that case replacement is the only way.

 

[EddieWalker]

I will be back there next weekend. I'll take a package of zerks with me. Thank you all for the advice. I will update with the results. Hoping a new zerk fixes this.

There are quite a few different sized for zerks, both metric and standard. Along with straight, angled and 90 degree tips. Sometimes it's worth the time and cost to stop by the dealer to find out what you need. You might even be surprised what they charge for it. I've found some of the best prices at my dealer, along with some that where just silly expensive. You never know until you go there.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

They are cheap but if you don't have one sitting there it takes a LOT longer to drive to town (for us country guys/girls) to buy one then just cleaning everything out.....

So keep them on hand, like you would for other basic consumables. When you can buy a pack of 110 of them for $12.99, it' time to change your mindset from "part of the machine which only gets replaced when it's broken, and requires a trip to town to buy the part", to, "Ordinary consumable, like milk, bread, or toilet paper. Always keep a bunch around."

 

[Code54]

So keep them on hand, like you would for other basic consumables. When you can buy a pack of 110 of them for $12.99, it' time to change your mindset from "part of the machine which only gets replaced when it's broken, and requires a trip to town to buy the part", to, "Ordinary consumable, like milk, bread, or toilet paper. Always keep a bunch around."

Not really that easy or even necessary for everyone... I have 1000's various parts on hand (including zerks), Hydro oils, Syn. oil, all filters, etc for our heavy Eqpt, trucks, tractors, etc... I also have a large heated shop to store everything in and work on it but not everyone has that nor has a need. My elderly friend has a small home and small shed he keeps his tractor in - he really does not have the income, need, or necessity to keep parts on hand. Being retired I am sure he wouldn't mind taking 10 minutes to clean up a fitting to save a buck and not have to have a parts inventory on hand. A common problem with BX25's seems to be a failing safety switch - does everyone keep on on hand???? I had one fail and replaced one on a friends machine last week that failed- do you stock them in your shop? I do now because if I need my machine I need it and don't have time to deal with it but I certainly would not expect others to do this or tell them to "change your mindset" if they don't have something on hand.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

2003 Komatsu PC130-6 (mighty)
I'll bet on metric. I only live 10 miles from a dealer so I will call them and get the zerks and some spares. They are 90 degree and removable. I had to change the angle of the one that worked by unscrewing it just a bit. I will look thru the manual and the software version shop manual as well. I tend to keep some spare parts for small stuff like this. It drive my wife insane

 

[EddieWalker]

My red Folgers plastic coffee can with lid has a huge selection of zerk fittings. It also has the wrenches for removing four different sizes, taps to rethread them, and a modified screw driver for cleaning out the hole of dirty grease after I remove the zerk. I also have a couple of rags in there too.

On the outside of the coffee can, I used wide, clear packing tape to tape a zerk to the outside of the coffee can so I can glance at it on the shelf and know what's inside it. I do this with all my five gallon storage buckets and coffee cans.