tracked vehicle differential questions

[Mace Canute]

If you look at how a differential works usually the drive shaft is directly connected to one side of the axle through the ring and pinion gear then through a series of gears to the other side of the axle. You could apply the brakes to one side and it would work but would be ineffective on the other side. If you setup a system similiar to a skidsteer with a hydraulic pump, valves and motors........

Good luck.

Nope. The ring or crown gear is bolted solidly to the case/center section and the two side gears that the axles are driven by are in turn driven by smaller pinion gears that are driven by a pin that passes through them and is firm to the case.

 

[turnkey4099]

If you look at how a differential works usually the drive shaft is directly connected to one side of the axle through the ring and pinion gear then through a series of gears to the other side of the axle. You could apply the brakes to one side and it would work but would be ineffective on the other side. If you setup a system similiar to a skidsteer with a hydraulic pump, valves and motors........

Good luck.

Errm...No. Both sides are driven through the spider gears. There is no direct connection to either side with the drive shaft.

Harry K

 

[davedj1]

I know how a differential works, I just don't know if it will work in the application I want.
Keep the info coming!
:thumbsup:

 

[turnkey4099]

I know how a differential works, I just don't know if it will work in the application I want.
Keep the info coming!
:thumbsup:

The only problem I (or others) see is the speeding up of one track while turning. I don't see it being all that much of one if any.

The major problem will be designing your track bogies/idlers, the track, and all the other stuff that goes with that type drive. I don't see it being done on a budget.

Harry K

 

[davedj1]

I have an outlet for the track belting so that shouldn't cost too much.
Idlers I'm thinking torsion axle stubs (not cheap i Know) and using tires for the wheels. Drive sprockets I'm not sure yet, maybe UHMW or a combination of that and steel. Cleats or growsers I will build out of steel.
It may be too ambitious of a project but I think it would be fun not only to build but to drive as well.
I have been looking into possibly building individual tracks using snowmobile tracks. I't hard to find solid info on the DIY ones out there.
dave

 

[pilot-werx]

The guys down the road from me have it mastered. I believe they build the worlds fastest tracked vehicle... Howe &Howe Technology

 

[brokenot]

There are plenty of YouTube clips with tracked vehicles built around a car or light truck axle for the drive. This is one of my favorites...he has a few videos posted:

Luisua tela-ajoneuvolla - YouTube

Look at the right side for similar videos posted by others, or search by using the keyword "bandvagn".

Enjoy. (Way better than what's typically on TV.)

 

[RPW]

OK, did a relook at how differentials work and stand corrected. The ones I looked at appeared to have one axle directly attached to the input shaft.

 

[jimgerken]

If I were starting such a vehicle, I would design it articulated 4WD. If for snow only, then go ahead and run solid axles (no differential action at all).

 

[nimblemotors]

no experience here, but I've seem tracks for skid steers that just go around the existing wheels. Could you do the same for the sammy? Obviously you'd need to fix the front wheels so they don't turn and rig the brakes independently for the skid steering. I don't know if the 4wd would work this way, if they might rotate different speeds and thus you would need 2wd only.

I've read about a track made from a big tractor tire with the sidewalls cutaway, this could be real cheap if you can find old tires free.

OK, I'm having thoughts about building a tracked vehicle. It will be used primarily on the snow to pull a grooming drag. I'm wondering if a typical car/truck rear differential would be ok to use? I am thinking of a ford explorer rear axle that has disk brakes and maybe adding a second caliper to each side to have more stopping power. Then use two large master cylinders, one for each side.

My question is, will the open diff. work the way I picture it?
Apply brakes on which ever side you want to go in? Thereby slowing down that side and putting the power to the opposite side.

I don't see the need for a tank like diff as I won't need to have one track go backwards, the turning radius doesn't have to be that tight.
Any input is greatly appreciated as always,
dave

Just for some added reading, I will be using a stock vehicle (small rear wheel drive) Like a Samuri/tracker or something. I will remove the front steering and all components, mount the rear axle solid to the frame. Then building my own undercarriage and tracks.
So the tracks will be driven from the rear.