Traction Traction is all about balance

[Doc_Bob]

It is not all adding weight. I have a TSC Quick Hitch. Putting my weight box on the hitch makes a big difference. Using the Quick Hitch moves the weight box back about 4". Seems like I added another 300 lbs instead of the Quick Hitches 75 lbs.

Lever action is good!
Bob

 

[Doc_Bob]

Yep.. rear ballast. Here is my loader tractor...

Soundguy

So, where did you get the parts for the top link and two bottom links?
Bob

 

[RalphVa]

My best traction rig is FEL full and carryall about half full. Balances really well.

Attached is a pic.

Was carrying mulch down to my tree rows this afternoon in this rig. Only bad thing about it is having to load and unload the carryall by hand.

Have already carried 7 loads and did my 20 garden rows with mulch.

Ralph

 

[Soundguy]

So, where did you get the parts for the top link and two bottom links?
Bob

The toplink connections sticking out of the concrete are just bar flat stock drilled for a toplink pin, and the bottom connection points are actually a small cat 1 drawbar that is bolted to the bottom o fthe concrete chunk by studs that are imbedded in the concrete.. ( large carrage bolts ).

If i ever want to ditch it.. i just run 4 nuts off the bottom and throw away the concrete, and keep my 20$ drawbar. This is made from an old cattle feed tub, and scrap / spare metal, and a few bags of sak-crete. Cost about 15$ to make.. and 30m of time. Works great!

Soundguy

 

[jimainiac]

Doc Bob, are your rear tires loaded? Our dealer told us they load the rears of any tractor they sell with a loader. Seems like a good idea, that automaticly adds a lot of counterweight even before hanging an attachment on.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Doc Bob, are your rear tires loaded? Our dealer told us they load the rears of any tractor they sell with a loader. Seems like a good idea, that automaticly adds a lot of counterweight even before hanging an attachment on.

Nope, not loaded. I bought it used. I need to have some weight. How is the question.
Bob

 

[Doc_Bob]

The toplink connections sticking out of the concrete are just bar flat stock drilled for a toplink pin, and the bottom connection points are actually a small cat 1 drawbar that is bolted to the bottom o fthe concrete chunk by studs that are imbedded in the concrete.. ( large carrage bolts ).

If i ever want to ditch it.. i just run 4 nuts off the bottom and throw away the concrete, and keep my 20$ drawbar. This is made from an old cattle feed tub, and scrap / spare metal, and a few bags of sak-crete. Cost about 15$ to make.. and 30m of time. Works great!

Soundguy

Soundguy, all you have to have is talent. I have no talent. Now, if I could get the parts at TSC and stick them in the concrete, all would be great!
Bob

 

[JC-jetro]

If i ever want to ditch it.. i just run 4 nuts off the bottom and throw away the concrete, and keep my 20$ drawbar. Soundguy

I like your thinking. you gotta think outside the box. It always pleases me to read your posts. There is always tid bits to pick up

 

[Bulldog160]

Here's an idea I'm thinking of doing. Let me know what you all think.

Using a 15 gallon plastic drum on its side, cutting slits in both ends. Put a drawbar through it that sticks out on both ends. Fill the drum with concrete. This should give you close to 300 lbs. of weight. No top link needed as all it will do is spin. This is good for me because when I back up in certain areas my rear weight catches(one of the problems with the lower lift of the 2210 3pt).

Anyone see in problems with this idea? I'm currently using my box scraper for weight but it sticks back to far.

 

[BTDT]

Doc_Bob, I see in your profile you have pallet forks. If you had some that were 3ph (and they may be), could you just build a ballast box (you choose the type, barrel with water, box of iron, concrete, etc) and then back up and lift. Then according to how close/far it is from tractor, that one weight would increase or decrease it's effect.