Tractor and Box Blade

   / Tractor and Box Blade #11  
Willingtonpizza, there was a short thread on another board concerning the use of a belly mounted blade for grading. A person who was familiar with them said that they do not work well on a smaller tractor because the down pressure on the blade causes weight to be taken off the front and a loss of steering control.
 
   / Tractor and Box Blade #12  
I think with what your doing the B2910 would be my choice. Good luck with your purchase.
Doctor
 
   / Tractor and Box Blade #13  
Search this site for additional information on the Road Master Grader. The one I want is about $1600 and is approximately 6 ft x 6 ft by 2 ft high and contains two road grader blades (same as on good box blades). It is a CAT II 3 point, but they make a lighter one for CAT 1 tractors. They work very well and should do a much better job than a belly mounted blade which works well on road graders with a length about 4X a tractor for wheelbase. The problem with road maintenance with ANY short wheel base vehicle is that you get the up and down roller coaster motion. The Road Master solves this by having an effective long wheelbase by disconnecting the blades (2) and pulling them on 6 ft long skids behind the tractor with enough weight to do some good (that is why they are usually CAT II).

You can do as well with a heavy duty box blade, but you have to work slowly and pay attention and do a lot of work in reverse to get a smooth cut to start with. Any blade works pretty well if the driveway is pretty smooth to start with. A good box blade will set you back about $1200 to $1500 also. A hydraulic top link makes the work about 10X easier and runs about $300 if you have a set of remote hydraulic valves already on your tractor. A tip hydraulic link is really nice, but I couldn't afford adding a second set of external remotes as well as the tip hydraulic link for the few times I need it. Now if I were a landscaper, it would probably pay for itself in a couple of weeks.
 

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