Tractor Forks

kozak · Sep 17, 2007

Got myself a set of forks off of e-bay. Check out the pic. Some of you may recognize these. They have been on sale for some time.....Seller keeps getting new ones in. Their built like a TANK trap. This is my first rear implement although they are also designed to go on FEL. Tried to install & guess what......no pins for either top link or lower arms. Needless to say I was bummed out. I paid $500 US for these. Seems rediculous to me that seller would not provide the pins. What are we talking about......$10 bucks. Had to go out & waste 2 hours looking for pins. Farm Supply source I checked out indicated they don't normally carry too much Cat. 1 lower links as they are NORMALLY supplied with implement at time of purchase. NOW I'm really starting to get bummed.

Ended up getting something that was Cat. 1 but threaded. Tried it out & so far OK. Am I out of line expecting to get a rear implement ready to use without any additional hardware ????????

Vic

kozak · Sep 17, 2007

Here's a side view !!

kozak · Sep 17, 2007

These are a nice deisgn, that's why I wanted them. Can go on both the FEL & 3 Point Hitch PLUS the forks are adjustable IN & OUT.

Vic

harwill · Sep 17, 2007

I suspect they leave the pins to your imagination because of the many possibilities for mounting something like that. So don't be too hash! Looks like what I have been wanting for my FEL. Looks like the forks are free to move sideways on the bars, are they free swinging also? I can't tell from the pics - about how wide are the forks, 4-5"? Enjoy!

kozak · Sep 17, 2007

Harwill,

That's just it. Are not all Cat 1 lower link pins 7/8" diameter. Further, Seller knows from his design what length is required. So as far as I am concerned, should be provided....or at least an attempt made. If this was a private sale I would have no issues with it. However, this is a Company selling these with other items for sale on a regular basis. THEY KNOW BETTER. Without the pins the forks are useless.

On a brighter note, they do seem to work well. Only tried them out with some rock I plan to move this PM for approx. 20 minutes. The forks are free swinging. Made out of channel steel approx 4 to 5" wide. Capacity is 2000# but I suspect they can lift considerably more.

Vic

daTeacha · Sep 18, 2007

From the looks of the side picture, you need a through pin or bolt on the lower link, not a standard pin bolted to the implement. That might explain why there isn't one supplied.

I was expecting to see Q.A. plates on there. How do you attach it to the FEL?

kozak · Sep 19, 2007

daTeacha said:
From the looks of the side picture, you need a through pin or bolt on the lower link, not a standard pin bolted to the implement. That might explain why there isn't one supplied.

I was expecting to see Q.A. plates on there. How do you attach it to the FEL?

Don't really understand what you mean. I do have a through pin but half of the shank is threaded. That's all they had. I called up a CASE Dealership & they also did not have a Cat 1 (7/8" dia) through pin, only threaded type.

To attach forks to FEL, I have to take "pin-on" bucket off. (Is not QA) This will be a bit of a pain but I would probably have spent $2,000 easily for QA plate, mods to bucket & then got QA forks. I wanted something that I could put on the back for the increased lift capacity. Unfortunately, as I learned yesterday, need top & tilt for 3 pt or this becomes almost useless if tractor is at an odd angle on a slope for example. Took me 3 hours to place one 1500 lb rock yesterday. Just brutal. Could not get forks out from under rock without rock moving with forks. DUMB !!

So it looks like I will be losing some more green backs. I already have the remotes. Does anybody roughly know how much for the hydraulic cylinder for the top arm ??

Vic

6sunset6 · Sep 19, 2007

Check Carter and Carter $250 or so I think. You definatly need to get the cylinder with the double pilot check valves. Particularly if you will be working around the forks. Those check valves keep the implement from falling if a hose breaks. Also there are three different lengths of cylinders. You will most likly use the 18-26.5 one but you might need the longer one, Measure what you have there now.
Hydraulic top link, Top-N-Tilt, Side link

daTeacha · Sep 19, 2007

From the pic, it looks like your lower arms fit between the plates on the back of the implement. On other implements, there is a pin sticking out that the balls slip over and a lynch pin locks it in place. This rig looks to me like a 7/8" bolt through those black plates with your lift arms in the middle would work just fine to hold the lower links in place. I'd go wth grade 5 or higher. I suspect a bolt will be cheaper than pins and a lot easier to find. If you really want to use lynch pins, just drill the bolt or use a section of 7/8 round stock, but that's usually grade 2

Yeah, I was thinking QA for the FEL. Pin on saves some weight but adds some hassle and bucks, like you said.

kozak · Sep 20, 2007

6sunset6,

Thanks for the info & link to CCM. Very much appreciated. Price is definitely right. Have you purchased equipment from CCM before ?

daTecha,

You are correct with respect to pin going through first black plate then through lower arm link & then on through second back plate. Do you think threaded section will scar the inside of the balls of the lower links ?

Vic