tractor hauling

[BrettW]

Guys,
I'm going to be trailering a 2000 lbs tractor with tiller. Going from Md to SC. I could use some loading tips. I've never trailered a large machine before and never anything over such a long distance. Using my F150, straight 6, and a good 4 wheeled trailer with ele. brakes. Got good chain.
How much weight on the truck?
Where to place the tractor on the trailer?
thanks in advance,
brettw

 

[greg_g]

I don't think I'd do it with the info provided, but who knows - maybe you've got a six banger half ton that came with a trailer package.

If you've got the right transmission, the right axle ratio, a big radiator, and transmission cooling - and a light trailer - your six banger might be up to it.

I'm going to say the Ford may be good for 8000 pounds total, including itself. Add the truck weight to the trailer weight to the tractor/tiller weight, to anything else that may be in the cab or the bed - and see what you come up with.

//greg//

 

[JerryG]

Given that you have the 300 v6 and a 150, I wouldn't be a bit afraid of the haul. Have pulled a lot more with a similar truck but with 4wd.

 

[DK35vince]

I use 1 chain for each corner of the tractor.
The front chains pulling forward and the rear chains pulling back.
My trailer tows better (no swaying) with the tractor loaded just past axle center with the weight being heavier on the tongue side.

 

[r0GuE]

I can tow 2000 with my Honda minivan V6 or straight 6 Jeep Wrangler. Of course that doesn't include the trailer, so I would not be able to do it. I have to imagine that a Ford 150 could do it, but you certainly raise a good point. Time for some book lookin and number crunchin!

 

[Bird]

Brett, when you put the tractor on the trailer, you would like 10% to 15% of the total weight of the trailer and cargo to be on the hitch (on the truck). Since most of us do not have scales to weigh everything, I'd use a simpler, and slightly less accurate, method to position the tractor on the trailer. I'd hook up the trailer and measure the height of the hitch, or just measure the height of the rear bumper of the truck. Put the tractor on the trailer and measure again, preferably have a helper to either drive the tractor or do the measuring. Move the tractor forward on the trailer to a point where it lowers the back bumper of the truck 1" to 1.5".

I know lots of folks want a big engine, heavy truck to pull a trailer, and that's certainly preferable, but I wouldn't hesitate at all to pull that tractor and trailer with your truck. I'll guess that the truck is rated to pull a 5,000 pound trailer, and as long as you don't overheat it, no problem.

 

[johnday]

Bret; What Bird said is the way I've done it for years. The part about the weight distribution that is. To each his own, but, if your going to "pull" not tow with your 150, I'd take it a little easy with it. I owned at one time or another a couple of the 300 sixes. While it's just about a bullet proof engine, I would suggest you keep the speed down and watch the temp. You sure don't want to kill your truck.
Semper Fi!!!!

 

[DaveNay]

My truck is a '93 F-150 with the straight six and Mazda 5 speed tranny. I bought it from my father in law with 186K miles on it. He used it about 6 times to pull a fully loaded trailer full of household items to/from Las Vegas to/from La Porte IN. He said that he was down to about 30 MPH at times through the mountains, but other than slow going, he had no problems. The truck is pushing 200K miles at this time, and is the best vehicle I have ever owned.

I say...no problemo!

Dave

 

[RonR]

Some comments from someone that's hauled stuff for 10+ years (probably 50K miles with something on the trailer.)

Start with Grade 70 chains and binders properly sized for it. Don't know I'd go as far as one chain per corner of the tractor, but some like that. For sure you want chain going out from each corner, but for my money, it can be one chain on each end of the tractor.

When I load my tractor, I watch the rear of the truck and I can see the bumper lowering. Measuring would add to the accuracy. If you are really in doubt, you could hit a grain elevator or a moving company and probably get individual axle weights on your rig.

Adjust the chains tightly. When you start out, stop at 1, 5, 10, and 50 miles to tighten them. I always have it where I can see my chains in the mirrors, so I can watch for looseness from the cab. I've known guys that haul new tractors that let part of the air out of the tires, chain them down, then air up the tires. Instant tight!

Every time you stop, walk around the trailer, checking each chain, each hub for heat, and each tire for heat.

Check the air in the tires every morning. Were I doing it, I'd have two mounted spared for the trailer, along with lug wrench, jack, etc. When I towed with a 3 axle gooseneck, I traveled with THREE spares for it.

Going that far, I'd want good tires all around (trk and Tlr). With the trailer empty, I'd try stopping with only the tlr brakes to make sure they work. My experience (six wheels braking) one or more were NOT working at any time. If in doubt, might drop the tlr off at a good shop to have them check it out. Heading down a long hill is not a good time to find out the brakes are not working.....

For the truck, flush the radiator, new oil and filter, maybe a tune up to give it all the help it can get!

Loose stuff on the tractor or trailer will fall off. I noticed when my Bota was delivered, the driver had folded the seat forward and hooked the seatbelt over it. Told me they set there and bounce in the wind if you don't!

I'd try to hit the big cities at non peak times. Keep your speed reasonable. Stop to rest often. Enjoy the ride!

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

I would also recommend checking out your state DOT web site to see what the regulations are. In PA a chain on each corner isn't just a good idea...its the law. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif