Buying Advice Tractor HP

[mustangfarm]

I am considoring a 37hp compact L series Kubota tractor. I am not planning on using the pto often and mostly will be doing loader work, grading, trying to reclaim woods to pasture. I plan on getting a box scraper. I will have R4 industrial type tires as I want to be able to drive over lawns too without much damage but don't want turf tires either. I want to be able to grade land, pull up rocks/roots/small stumps... The loader will also be used for our manure pile and moving dirt/wood chips/etc around 8 acres.

My question is on the HP of the tractor. Dealers tell me that the HP doesn't really effect loader/hydraulic strength at all and they also seem to tell me pushing/pulling power is mostly based on weight/traction rather than HP. Seems HP is mostly used for PTO or top speed going up hills, etc.. My property is very flat..

So given all this info am I wasting money getting a 37hp L rather than a 25hp one??

 

[justinramani]

Sounds like weight is going to be the more important factor for you. Have you looked at Mahindra? They are built HEAVY and offer a but more value overall. Mine isn't perfect, but it gets the job done.

 

[oosik]

Hi Jeff - welcome to TBN and the forum. More hp is generally going to mean a larger tractor. Larger tractor is usually a heavier tractor. Larger tractor will generally mean a larger loader with greater lifting capabilities. Weight is your friend as far as traction & pulling.

Generally speaking a larger tractor with increased capabilities will get a job done quicker. IE - larger load in the bucket - pulling larger implements - etc.

YOU have to decide if the larger unit is what you need/want/require to complete the jobs/projects on your property.

A good start - list all the projects you want to take on and complete in the next five years. List them in the priority of completion. Now - how much time do you have to complete each task - do you need the capabilities of a larger tractor to complete the job in the time you have or will the smaller tractor work out OK.

This is the kind of planning/thinking that will get you closer to a good decision. Recognize - however - there is no such thing as the perfect tractor. It boils down to a compromise that you are willing to accept.

 

[mustangfarm]

Thanks guys. It seems the L series Kubotas are the same frame/size/weight but different engine options. The bigger engine of course does weigh a bit more too though. The tires will be filled on this tractor for added weight and I can always add a box on the back too. I wonder if putting chains on the tires will get more of the HP to the ground or will I still not run out of HP on the smaller 22-25hp machines. Another thing I always keep in mind too is resale value, I don't mind spending a bit more if I get it back when I sell!

 

[mustangfarm]

It is a L3700SU tractor by the way.. I am told the main disadvantage of the "SU" is no mid pto but I don't think I would need it. I certainly would never put a belly mower on it and have no plans for a front snowblower, not sure I know anything else that uses that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am considoring a 37hp compact L series Kubota tractor. I am not planning on using the pto often and mostly will be doing loader work, grading, trying to reclaim woods to pasture. I plan on getting a box scraper. I will have R4 industrial type tires as I want to be able to drive over lawns too without much damage but don't want turf tires either. I want to be able to grade land, pull up rocks/roots/small stumps... The loader will also be used for our manure pile and moving dirt/wood chips/etc around 8 acres.

My question is on the HP of the tractor. Dealers tell me that the HP doesn't really effect loader/hydraulic strength at all and they also seem to tell me pushing/pulling power is mostly based on weight/traction rather than HP. Seems HP is mostly used for PTO or top speed going up hills, etc.. My property is very flat..

So given all this info am I wasting money getting a 37hp L rather than a 25hp one??

As far as HP doing ground engaging tasks. On one hand your dealer is correct, if you take the same exact tractor, same everything other than one has 40HP and the other has 50HP, both will do the same exact tasks, moving, lifting the same weights. But the 50HP tractor will do them faster. So more HP is not just for PTO implements, although that is a common line of thinking.

As has been mentioned, you have to decide is the additional expense worth it to you to gain some time. If you are retired and don't have anything else to do, then slower might be fine. If you only have time on the weekends, then you might consider a tractor that will get your projects done quicker. Only you can make that decision.

 

[mustangfarm]

I'm happy to spend more to save time! I just don't want to spend more for no gains.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm happy to spend more to save time! I just don't want to spend more for no gains.

Very seldom do you hear or read, " I have more HP than I need." Plenty of posts saying, "I wish I had more HP."

If you can afford the additional cost, I recommend going with the maximum HP available in whatever frame size you are getting.

Just my :2cents:

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

One other thought I had, reading your posts, SCUTS/CUTS are not bulldozers. Neither are their FEL's intended for actual ground digging work. The FEL's + buckets are meant for scooping up and moving loose material, dirt, rocks, gravel, etc. Not for breaking up ground and digging holes like a true dedicated TLB would be. Now some of this can be improved, with say a tooth bar (see Piranha, etc), but you're not just going to drive up to a tree stump and dig it out with your FEL + bucket.

I think tractor weight gets ignored more often, in favor of hp numbers, when folks look at tractor stats. Tractor weight goes a long ways towards getting things done. Hp is mostly important for driving pto powered attachments, but if you have a heavy tractor that's underpowered, you can stall the engine before you break traction. The end result would be the same if it was the other way around, more hp than tractor weight, and the tires break traction (not enough weight) before the engine stalls. Either way, you're not getting the job done. So, I guess I'm saying, "It's a Balance"?

But the tractor is just a tool. Part of that tool's job is to be a mobile power plant (pto) to drive other tools. Say you start off with a 25hp power plant, vs. a 35 or 40 hp power plant, you just immediately cut out a large set of optional tools that you could attach and drive off of that power plant (tractor). Assuming (oh boy!), that you're purchasing new, and staying with the same model family (you mentioned Kubota L), how much actual price "savings" are you talking about by down grading your purchase to a 25hp unit?

Now you also mentioned "resale". You're ultimately hoping to match your tractor choice to some yet unknown prospective buyer when it comes time to sell. How much harder would it be to find such a buyer that's able/willing to do what they need off of a 25hp unit (yours) vs. the guy down the road selling a 35 or 40hp unit?

One other thing that sticks out. I was personally not able to climb on or test drive a Kubota (local dealer has everyone on "IGNORE", no idea how he's still in business), but I did look over the stats. I recall I was disappointed in both the chassis weight, and FEL stats on the L series. I did like the Grand's though. Maybe I'd have bought one if I had an actual dealer.

Not trying to turn this into a "brand fight", but just make sure you look at all your tractor options that make sense for your local area (dealer locations, etc), and don't just fixate on one single brand.

 

[rngrrymd]

It is a L3700SU tractor by the way.. I am told the main disadvantage of the "SU" is no mid pto but I don't think I would need it. I certainly would never put a belly mower on it and have no plans for a front snowblower, not sure I know anything else that uses that.

Kubota L3700SU is a 2011 model so I'm guessing you are buying used. Can you tell us how many hours are on it and the asking price?

Kubota Showroom <-- old spec page still on dealer website

 

[jeff9366]

The tires will be filled on this tractor for added weight and I can always add a box on the back too. I wonder if putting chains on the tires will get more of the HP to the ground or will I still not run out of HP on the smaller 22-25hp machines.

I always keep in mind too is resale value, I don't mind spending a bit more if I get it back when I sell!

I have an L3560, also 37-horsepower but about 800 pounds heavier than an L3700, equipped with R4/industrial tires.

I doubt you will have traction problems. However, as you have not specified your LOCATION as part of your T-B-N PROFILE I am guessing at your soil type and moisture and your altitude. Altitude reduces engine horsepower around 3% per 1,000 feet.

An L2501 should be fine on eight flat acres at low altitude. However, a bare tractor weight of 2,800 pounds for all Ls, save the L4400 models, is very light for "reclaiming woods" and will not pull out stumps over 2" in diameter. Pulling stumps is excavator or bulldozer work, not tractor work.

2,800 pounds bare tractor weight should be fine for your other tasks. I would load the rear tires for stability in reclaiming woods on whatever tractor you buy.

For 1,100 pound FEL lifts, assuming filled rear tires, you will still need a Box Blade weighing at least 500 pounds, 600 pounds better, for Three Point Hitch counterbalance, to maintain the rear wheels securely on the ground.


Spending less now you maintain money in your wallet. Resale is in the uncertain future. HST transmission will hold tractor resale much more than additional horsepower.

A Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is most useful for woods work and light grading.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

RR WEB SITE: Ratchet Rake, LLC - Tractor attachment, Bucket attachment, Loader, Skid loader, Kubota, Skid steer, Landscape rake, Brush remover, York Rake, Harley Rake, Rock Rake, Tractor rake attachment, Construction attachment, New Holland, Bobcat, Fire safety, Home fire safety, Fire prevention, John Deere, skid steer attachment, tractor implement

 

[mustangfarm]

Yes this is used 2010 with 250 hours for $16k
Yes I do realize it isn't a bulldozer or excavator but I do need a loader too and hope to be able to slowly do some of the work in the woods.

The ratchet rake looks cool

Only other brand I have looked seriously at is John Deere and they seem like lighter machines, smaller axle tubes, smaller loader frames, etc.. I also have looked at New Holland a little but no dealer close to me.

 

[majorwager]

Jeffinma,
Ignore any direction to disclose location data. Not a requirement for posting and geological location and soil assessments are not a forum function. Just a function of the overly inquisitive ...............

Slowpoke Slim offers excellent advice. In initially purchasing a tractor, resale should not necessarily be a priority. The focus should center around that the tractor is a good match for you and your tasks. I have both smaller (2000 lb) and larger 50 hp Utility tractors. Just yesterday, the little Ford dragged 30 ft ash logs 1/4 mile from woods to firewood staging area. Don't underestimate the smaller tractor abilities.

Further agree that ground excavation using the FEL on a compact is a poor choice of task for compact tractors of any weight of up .

 

[mustangfarm]

I wonder if a skid steer would be better?

 

[4570Man]

I wonder if a skid steer would be better?

Almost certainly if you can live with the ground disturbance they cause. That’s my number 1 complaint with mine. #2 is increased difficulty getting out especially if you need to leave the loader arms part way up.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

....trying to reclaim woods to pasture......I want to be able to drive over lawns too without much damage

These two goals may be somewhat incompatible, depending on what you consider "lawn" and what your "woods" consists of. Big trees? little saplings?

As for a skid-steer, after it's done working, another tractor will need to come in to repair all the damage done to the ground.

 

[4570Man]

These two goals may be somewhat incompatible, depending on what you consider "lawn" and what your "woods" consists of. Big trees? little saplings?

As for a skid-steer, after it's done working, another tractor will need to come in to repair all the damage done to the ground.

I can finish grade with a skid steer. Here’s 2 jobs I did with mine. You just have to work toward the back end and don’t make any turns on the finish area. You’re right that a skid steer wreaks the ground, but wrong that you need a tractor to fix it.