Tractor hydraulic/tranny fluid

[PAB_OH]

As far as engine oil, I took the advise of a TBN member that lives in weather like mine. DK35Vince advised Rotella synthetic 5W40. I have used it for the past three years in my CK30hst and no problems in winter or summer. Winters here can be down to 0F'. Tractor starts with no problem.

I 2nd the Rotella Synthetic. I used in my previous tractor for over two years and just filled the CK30 up with it. It's 'spensive but so are engines

 

[IslandTractor]

I 2nd the Rotella Synthetic. I used in my previous tractor for over two years and just filled the CK30 up with it. It's 'spensive but so are engines

I don't think anyone thinks synthetic oil is worse than dino but as Kioti themselves (and virtually all major diesel engine manufacturers) still feel dino is perfectly fine, I continue to use the regular Rotella. The only major advantage of using synthetic would be to increase service intervals but most guys are still changing at standard "dino" recommended intervals so that benefit is lost. There may be some small gains in fuel economy and even wear but these may be too small to measure and don't justify the extra cost of synthetic (unless change intervals are extended).

 

[chelydra]

This seems like a good place to ask three questions:

- I'm about to do the 200hr change. Dealer sold me 5 gal of Mobilfluid 424; said it's the best he's got. Any opinions before I risk my CK20?

- How do people get the stuff into that little hole? I bought an angled funnel after a messy 100hr change. I'll pick a warm day to get the stuff moving. But that's a long time to hold up a big plastic pail. Do people use a smaller pitcher, siphon, or what?

- Finally, what's the rule on mixing? I wasn't going to flush, so there's presumably a quart or three of the old fluid left in the TLB system. Also, I'd like to be able to top up from a gallon of whatever's convenient.

Thanks for advice from Those Who Know!

-Chelydra

 

[JoelD]

I'm of the opinion that if it's slippery and labeled appropriately I'll work. Back in the day I've known some who've run motor oil as hydro oil. I use the cheapest hydro oil I can find that is appropriately rated.

I use five gallon pails, I pour into a one gallon container and then pour into gearbox case.

I have not worried about mixing as long as each was appropriately rated.

I've not had a hydro failure due to type of fluid, severed hoses with stabilizers and rocks and had one pump seal go early in it's life, replaced the seal and the pump was going strong three years later when I sold the machine.

Good luck,
Joel

 

[RexB]

seems like a good place to ask three questions:

- I'm about to do the 200hr change. Dealer sold me 5 gal of Mobilfluid 424; said it's the best he's got. Any opinions before I risk my CK20?

- How do people get the stuff into that little hole? I bought an angled funnel after a messy 100hr change. I'll pick a warm day to get the stuff moving. But that's a long time to hold up a big plastic pail. Do people use a smaller pitcher, siphon, or what?

- Finally, what's the rule on mixing? I wasn't going to flush, so there's presumably a quart or three of the old fluid left in the TLB system. Also, I'd like to be able to top up from a gallon of whatever's convenient.
Thanks for advice from Those Who Know!
-Chelydra

It meets API GL-4 and a whole host of OEM specs, Mobil has been in the business with good oils for a long time, so it's good to use.
Mobilfluid 424

To get the hyd oil into the little hole pouring from a 5-gal bucket, I use a transmission funnel with the long neck -- and bungee cord, or tie up, the funnel mouth to something on the tractor so it doesn't dump sideways while pouring fluid in.

The rule on mixing new oil with the oil left inside after draining? There isn't much left in and the filters and magnetic plugs work well, I don't worry about it...

I use Chevron 1000 THF in my CK30, unfortunately my local jobber only has it in 5 gal. buckets.

Me too, and the JD too. That's what my dealer uses and in his farm equipment. It sure is pricey though . . .

 

[Harold B]

When pouring from a brand new full pail, instead of poking a hole at the top for a vent try this trick, pick up the pail and pour with the spout towards you instead of away, this will eliminate any " glug of the jug " effect. also keeps the pail and lid sealed up

 

[IslandTractor]

When pouring from a brand new full pail, instead of poking a hole at the top for a vent try this trick, pick up the pail and pour with the spout towards you instead of away, this will eliminate any " glug of the jug " effect. also keeps the pail and lid sealed up

I'm having a little trouble visualizing how that works. Do you mean to just keep the spout near you when you start to pour (away from yourself) so it stays at the top when you tilt the bucket?

 

[kentrodngun]

I'm having a little trouble visualizing how that works. Do you mean to just keep the spout near you when you start to pour (away from yourself) so it stays at the top when you tilt the bucket?

That's it exactly. If you look at any (most) quart oil containers, they imprint a picture on the container showing you how to correctly pour - just as you describe.

 

[Harold B]

yup, you got it! When one has to fill a hydraulic excavator with new oil and it takes 10 or more 5 gallon pails, you can surely appreciate this method.

Had to do it this way recently when all the other field service trucks were busy and I had to use a pickup and go out and service a machine.

1 empty 55 gallon drum and a bunch of full pails of new oil and some filters, and a few wrenches.

Yeah, i looked like a real professional arriving on that jobsite,