Tractor smoking

[Paul McILwain]

I had a 530 universal tractor for 15 years and it always produced blue smoke but oil level never went down between annual changes of conventional 15/40 diesel oil. Now have for 10 years anLS 5030c that I use t6 in and it has never smoked or used a drop of oil even before I started using t6 about 4 years ago. Best tractor I have ever had. Will be going out shortly to blow snow (-25c ) here today and there will be no smoke. I have to keep the rad totally covered to get the temp up and even then doesn’t come up much til I work it hard

 

[aircommuter]

The forum is good for suggestions and possibilities but testing is the answer.

 

[MARK FROM LI]

Did you recently add fuel that could be the cause of it?...do you use a fuel treatment?....I use Power Service......walmart carries it for the best price...use this only in cold weather and do not add more than instructions call for

 

[aircommuter]

I use that product too. Best deal I found is Petroleum Service Company, I get 2-2.5 gallons for $179.04 including shipping.
It is a good product and Cummins endorsed. The sell it in different concentration levels so read carefully.

 

[Dman1981]

My tractor smoked a lot but I talked it into quitting it breathe better now

 

[just_Dave]

Letting an engine idle for 30 minutes is a bad practice. Get it started, let it idle for a minute or two if you must and get to work. I run Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in my diesel tractor and diesel truck. Delvac 1 synthetic in the diesel car. I start up and go in all my diesels. Well the car and truck do a low speed idle for a 1/4 mile to get to the highway. Synthetic oils tend to have better flow at cold temps than a regular oil.

I agree 30 min low idle is bad practice. start it, once smooth running half to 3/4 throttle if you want to warmn things up some but 3-5 min is plenty. then work it. diesel will never heat up at idle.

 

[Portals]

Mike, I assume you are talking about the WM and does it have a hydro transmission? Hydros run at 3/4 to full throttle most of the time to be the most efficient. Lighter loads don't necessarily have to
Any PTO work like bushhogging requires the PTO at 530-550 rpm range to keep the blade tip speed at the correct speed for smooth cutting. This varies tractor to tractor. The PTO is engineered to run around the peak of the torque curve. On some tractors this could be close to full rpm. Whatever the case, you aren't doing your equipment any favors not running at the optimum speed.

Chiseling and disking full speed is fine, but again, you need to run at the upper end of the torque curve which could allow you to throttle back a little.

You and others refer to running the tractor at "full throttle" or "all out". Do you really mean that? Or are you referring to optimum PTO rpm? I have a hydro. PTO is about 2400 RPM but there is more throttle available. Do you think I should periodically run it at max RPM?

 

[Flogger]

My tractor is smoking quite a bit and smells like fuel alot, the smoke looks bluish. Wondering what it could be.

I use ATF in my diesel fuel. My older 2 cyl tractors get a heavier dose than the newer tractors and my pickup. It cleans the system and provides lubrication. My old 7.3 Powerstroke seemed to be getting worse mileage around 100k so that is what started it. It now is approaching 300k and the mileage has increased plus it purs like a kitten. I am convinced it cleans injectors and provides great lubrication. I also use power service in the winter to control gelling.

 

[TractorTech]

You and others refer to running the tractor at "full throttle" or "all out". Do you really mean that? Or are you referring to optimum PTO rpm? I have a hydro. PTO is about 2400 RPM but there is more throttle available. Do you think I should periodically run it at max RPM?

No I don't think you should run it at max throttle and yes, you need to run the PTO at optimum PTO speed; 540-550 PTO rpm which can be at or very close to full throttle.
My 4600 optimum PTO speed is at 1800 engine rpm, but depending on the implement I'm running at no load is 1900 engine rpm. Max engine rpm is 2200.
Fiat/New Holland 4430 runs at close to full rpm to achieve 540 PTO.

Depending on the engine, the gearing, the implement and the load, the engine rpm is going to be different among different makes and sizes of tractors. Running the PTO at the 540 mark +/- 10-20 rpm is what you want to do.

 

[GinNB]

I run regular Rotella 10w30 per the owner's manuals in my Kubotas. 15w40 works fine as well but not in the winter. I just run 10w30 year-round so I don't have to worry that someone jumps in something that had summer oil when it's minus a million to clear a driveway or something. I'd change the oil just in case of diesel dilution and run it hard with non-synthetic oil with actual dead dinos for a while and see if that either breaks it in or frees up a stuck ring or something. I'd keep a close eye on oil use. Also, just in case it's engine oil starting to leak past the seal in your turbo, practice opening your hood and envision completely choking off the air at the filter (shirt, jacket, or hoodie works fine). If that seal lets go then your engine will runaway uncontrollably on engine oil until you run out and it grenades fatally. The only way to stop that one is to choke off the air. Unlikely in a motor with 400hrs but it never hurts to consider the possibility and many people are unaware of both the possibility and method to stop it.