Tractor Split - Splitting Stands

[mmranch]

When I get to that point, the transmission side will remain stationary and the engine side will roll back.

The engine side has a saddlebag oil pan that hangs down below the side rails. I don't really want to put pressure on the oil pan so I can't put any kind of splitting stand underneath that (the oil pan is dry and doesn't leak so I don't want to remove it to get a flatter surface). The side rails have various bolt holes so the best solution would seem to be a bolt on splitting stand like the 'charliesrepairs' splitting stands.

Are there any other splitting stands with similar side rail bolt-on approach? I have searched but can't find any other brands for sale with this bolt-on approach.

Thanks for any ideas!

 

[mike48130]

I always use a engine cherry picker for the engine side. You can hook to anything on the top or sides, or wrap a lifting strap around the whole engine. Rolls back easy and easy to align when mating.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks for this tip! I do have an engine lift... just wasn't sure that would give the best alignment control.

I'm assuming I would need to have the engine lift in front of the engine for best alignment/rollback control? If so, I would probably need to pull the brush guard from the front of the unit for the lift to get closer to the rear of the engine.

Thanks again.

 

[Zebrafive]

I built my own. U shaped to bolt to the same bolt holes that hold the side frames on at the rear of the engine. I made it so it adjust for width for easier installation. It has a single swivel wheel on a large threaded rod for height adjustment. I move the front/engine forward when I split and leave the rear half un moved with a floor jack to hold level.


I have also seen two separate stands (one for each side) to bolt to the side frame, each with a wheel at the bottom.

 

[mmranch]

Zebrafive,

Nice! I'm not sure my welding/fab skills are good enough to make my own at this point. Like to see a picture of your stand if you've got one.

Thanks for the ideas!

 

[mike48130]

I like the engine lift so you can rock it around when aligning it. You get pretty good control and you can use a leveler if you see fit. IF you are leaving the front axle on, then you probably don't need it. Depends on how far out you extend the lift arm depends on how much you need to take off the front.

 

[mmranch]

Front axle is staying on. Brush guard and weight bracket will need to be removed to get the lift arm further back as it's currently fully extended (1/2 ton) and only reaches the front of the engine. (Wood wedges will keep the engine from rotating).

Now from the sides... the lift easily reaches anywhere above the engine. But I figure from the sides is not as good a lift position for rolling the unit and lift forward and backward away from the transmission.

Thanks!

 

[LouNY]

The wood wedges are a good point and should not be forgotten,
I like a small piece of 2x6 or 8 with the plastic chain saw wedges,
I can tap them in solid and with some work when going back to gather they can be used to adjust the rotation slightly.
The last split that I worked on we used an engine lifter attached to the hoist that had a crank to move the pivot point it worked well.
Our engine hoist is one I built several years ago and it has a lot of reach (adjustable from 5 to a bit over 8 feet)

 

[nyone]

We always rolled the rear back and left the front in place. Its easier to roll a bigger wheel. Floor jacks under both, wedges in the front axle pivots.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks again for the ideas.

I now remember I have an engine leveler I have never used! Now if I could only remember where it is. I also have some chainsaw wedges as well.

Is it easier to move the rear when its only one person doing the job? Seems like moving the front+lift would be easier than the rear for one person.

Thanks!

 

[Jim Nelson]

I've split my Kubota B7800 twice and both times I had to have the back wheels off.I put jack stands under the frame of the front end and rolled the back end with a floor jack. Many tractors are different and this may not work for you but it was good for me working by myself.

 

[Zebrafive]

Zebrafive,

Nice! I'm not sure my welding/fab skills are good enough to make my own at this point. Like to see a picture of your stand if you've got one.

Thanks for the ideas!

Here is a picture. It's my JD 203 split. I like to roll front 1/2, I think I have more control with the stand's swivel wheel and steerable front wheels.

 

[mmranch]

Zebrafive,

Thanks for sharing that picture!.. Very nice. The side-to-side maneuvering with that single wheel is possibly even easier than with 2 wheels. (I'd buy something like that stand for a reasonable price).

Something like that is what I need for the front-move stand approach. But I will probably try the front-move lift approach as that is what I have available. (My current floor jacks are old and need attention so I'm not sure I want to trust them with the rear/cab movement at this point).

Probably will setup the lift at the front of the engine so the wheels are moving in the same axis as the front axle wheels.

Thanks again to all for the ideas!

 

[nyone]

I've split my Kubota B7800 twice and both times I had to have the back wheels off.I put jack stands under the frame of the front end and rolled the back end with a floor jack. Many tractors are different and this may not work for you but it was good for me working by myself.

Why did you need to have the back wheels off? Im going to have to split my b8200 for the ring gear in the coming years/months.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Usually I roll the rear back as larger tires roll easier. If you have a cab then I would roll the front away. Usually all I use is a floor jack under the roll away end and make sure the floor is well swept. Blocks on the front axle for sure. Make sure also that you have some adjustment on the rear for when you roll it all back together. I find that the blocking or what ever I use tends to settle a bit before you can roll it all back together. A set of alignment bolts screwed into the threads where the case splits makes rolling everything back together a lot easier. Just cut the head off of a longer bolt with the same threads and cut a slot into the shaft so the you can turn the bolt out later with a screw driver.

 

[Jim Nelson]

Why did you need to have the back wheels off? Im going to have to split my b8200 for the ring gear in the coming years/months.

I was replacing the differential lock so having the wheels off made it much easier to pull the axles out.Only the right side had come all the way out but the left had to move out enough to clear the differential unit and get it out of the case.

To do what you are doing it wouldn't be necessary to take the wheels off.

 

[nyone]

Was your diff lock engauging then disengaging while the pedal was pressed?

 

[Jim Nelson]

Was your diff lock engauging then disengaging while the pedal was pressed?

No, it just stopped engaging at all. When I got into it I found that they use a 2 pronged "clutch" assy that slides on the axle when you press on the foot pedal. This engages with the cage portion of the diff. and is harder than the diff cage so it wore the edges of the diff cage ears to where it wouldn't engage.I replaced all the parts needed and thought it was operator error. In a while it started acting up again and I finally woke up and realized that it was not fully dis-engaging when I took my foot off the pedal. I replaced the whole thing again and looked the linkage system over real close and found that there were some spots that needed to be lubricated that were not mentioned in the W.S.M. or owners manual. I now give them a good shot of Fluid Film every time I service the tractor and some times in between if I think of it. I'm also careful to be sure the pedal comes all the way up every time I use it. Our property is on the side of a hill and I have to use the dif. lock more than most people so learned the hard way.

One thing I forgot to mention is that I had a B7510 gear tractor and the axle lock pedal was on the right hand side of the tractor so the linkage went straight back to the dif.housing. This eliminates at least 2 joints and a lot of length in the linkage.

In my opinion it is a very poor design and the need to lube the linkage should be mentioned in one of the manuals. I think that most owners don't use it enough for it to be a problem but for people, like me, with steep terrain and loose soil it is a big problem.

 

[Zebrafive]

Usually I roll the rear back as larger tires roll easier. If you have a cab then I would roll the front away. Usually all I use is a floor jack under the roll away end and make sure the floor is well swept. Blocks on the front axle for sure. Make sure also that you have some adjustment on the rear for when you roll it all back together. I find that the blocking or what ever I use tends to settle a bit before you can roll it all back together. A set of alignment bolts screwed into the threads where the case splits makes rolling everything back together a lot easier. Just cut the head off of a longer bolt with the same threads and cut a slot into the shaft so the you can turn the bolt out later with a screw driver.

The reason I do not roll the rear 1/2 back is I come in from the side with a floor jack, so the floor jack's wheels are not going the right direction to roll back. I put a jack stand under the drawbar incase rear 1/2 is heavier at the back. I also air up the front tires to maximum psi for easier rolling. I do wedge the front axle pivot before I start the split.


When reassembling, once things start together (less than 1" to go), I will take the weight off the floor jack (on rear half) and also try moving the rear half forward. I also install bolts as it comes together, BUT DO NOT use the bolts to try and pull it together.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks to all for the great tips!!

I'm still a ways off from doing the actual split.

I have removed the FEL mounts and removed the front brush guard and weight mount so the engine lift can get further back over the rear of the engine when approaching from the front. Now that those extra items are off the front, there is a little more weight to be held at the back of the engine. There are 2 engine lift points mounted to the head (front and rear) on the right side of the head. I'm assuming that since the front axle is still present holding weight, the lift points will be able hold the rear engine weight with a chain to the lift. I will run a second chain loosely around the whole engine up to the lift in case the top lift chain were to break.

Next up is separating hoses, etc.

Thanks again!