Tractor Split - Splitting Stands

[mmranch]

When I get to that point, the transmission side will remain stationary and the engine side will roll back.

The engine side has a saddlebag oil pan that hangs down below the side rails. I don't really want to put pressure on the oil pan so I can't put any kind of splitting stand underneath that (the oil pan is dry and doesn't leak so I don't want to remove it to get a flatter surface). The side rails have various bolt holes so the best solution would seem to be a bolt on splitting stand like the 'charliesrepairs' splitting stands.

Are there any other splitting stands with similar side rail bolt-on approach? I have searched but can't find any other brands for sale with this bolt-on approach.

Thanks for any ideas!

 

[mike48130]

I always use a engine cherry picker for the engine side. You can hook to anything on the top or sides, or wrap a lifting strap around the whole engine. Rolls back easy and easy to align when mating.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks for this tip! I do have an engine lift... just wasn't sure that would give the best alignment control.

I'm assuming I would need to have the engine lift in front of the engine for best alignment/rollback control? If so, I would probably need to pull the brush guard from the front of the unit for the lift to get closer to the rear of the engine.

Thanks again.

 

[Zebrafive]

I built my own. U shaped to bolt to the same bolt holes that hold the side frames on at the rear of the engine. I made it so it adjust for width for easier installation. It has a single swivel wheel on a large threaded rod for height adjustment. I move the front/engine forward when I split and leave the rear half un moved with a floor jack to hold level.


I have also seen two separate stands (one for each side) to bolt to the side frame, each with a wheel at the bottom.

 

[mmranch]

Zebrafive,

Nice! I'm not sure my welding/fab skills are good enough to make my own at this point. Like to see a picture of your stand if you've got one.

Thanks for the ideas!

 

[mike48130]

I like the engine lift so you can rock it around when aligning it. You get pretty good control and you can use a leveler if you see fit. IF you are leaving the front axle on, then you probably don't need it. Depends on how far out you extend the lift arm depends on how much you need to take off the front.

 

[mmranch]

Front axle is staying on. Brush guard and weight bracket will need to be removed to get the lift arm further back as it's currently fully extended (1/2 ton) and only reaches the front of the engine. (Wood wedges will keep the engine from rotating).

Now from the sides... the lift easily reaches anywhere above the engine. But I figure from the sides is not as good a lift position for rolling the unit and lift forward and backward away from the transmission.

Thanks!

 

[LouNY]

The wood wedges are a good point and should not be forgotten,
I like a small piece of 2x6 or 8 with the plastic chain saw wedges,
I can tap them in solid and with some work when going back to gather they can be used to adjust the rotation slightly.
The last split that I worked on we used an engine lifter attached to the hoist that had a crank to move the pivot point it worked well.
Our engine hoist is one I built several years ago and it has a lot of reach (adjustable from 5 to a bit over 8 feet)

 

[nyone]

We always rolled the rear back and left the front in place. Its easier to roll a bigger wheel. Floor jacks under both, wedges in the front axle pivots.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks again for the ideas.

I now remember I have an engine leveler I have never used! Now if I could only remember where it is. I also have some chainsaw wedges as well.

Is it easier to move the rear when its only one person doing the job? Seems like moving the front+lift would be easier than the rear for one person.

Thanks!