I have them, but take them off in the summer because they tear up the drive way. If I had some decent gravel on the property, I could fill in several of the dips and probably make it, but will live for now with backing up the trail. I appreciate all the good advice here.
Tractor stability going uphill vs. down
- Thread starter rfc143
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4570Man
Super Star Member
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- Crossville, TN
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- Kubota M59, Kubota L3800, Grasshopper 428D, Topkick dump truck, 3500 dump truck, 10 ton trailer, more lighter trailers.
I'll attempt to climb any hill as long as I have an implement on the back.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Yep. Keep your hand on the joystick and the bucket low and be ready to drop it into the dirt if you have to.
DieselBound
Elite Member
I'm thinking that a good box blade with scarifiers lowered can become an excellent anchor going down hill. My property is fairly flat, so no real experience.
AxleHub
Elite Member
A couple things I learned early on - that fear buries into your brain:
1. If you are on a hill of any kind - 4wd must be engaged or you have no front axle braking. This is how things can break away and go gravity speed (yikes).
2. The idea of dropping your bucket to help you stop. Sounds good - but you want to have bucket curled up so the front edge does NOT cut into the ground - if it does cut into the ground - it doesn't slow you down - it makes the bucket stop dead and you and tractor keep going forward or to the side - scary is momentum going down and a bucket edge digging into the ground very suddenly.
3. damp or wet grass/rocks/leaves/or slippery clay - are not your friend
4. I learned that SOMETIMES backing downhill while not comfortable - is a whole lot safer than driving down.
And lastly 5. If you'd feel uncomfortable trying to walk or hike down a hill - why would you think driving a tractor down it would be smart LOL That's what ATVs are for.
1. If you are on a hill of any kind - 4wd must be engaged or you have no front axle braking. This is how things can break away and go gravity speed (yikes).
2. The idea of dropping your bucket to help you stop. Sounds good - but you want to have bucket curled up so the front edge does NOT cut into the ground - if it does cut into the ground - it doesn't slow you down - it makes the bucket stop dead and you and tractor keep going forward or to the side - scary is momentum going down and a bucket edge digging into the ground very suddenly.
3. damp or wet grass/rocks/leaves/or slippery clay - are not your friend
4. I learned that SOMETIMES backing downhill while not comfortable - is a whole lot safer than driving down.
And lastly 5. If you'd feel uncomfortable trying to walk or hike down a hill - why would you think driving a tractor down it would be smart LOL That's what ATVs are for.
Tigershark
Gold Member
We have a steep dam that I occasionally mow when it is vey dry. I always back up the hill going straight up and down always in low gear and never with my wife around. I would never attempt to drive up it but backing up it seems a lot safer. I am not sure the degree of slope but I can't take my ATV up it straight or back it up. I have never attemped the very back of the dam where the slope is crazy i just take the weed eater to it.
CobyRupert
Super Member
:thumbsup:
This needs to be repeated. You only have front wheel "braking" when in 4WD.
When going downhill forward, angle causes rear axle to lighten (especially with a load in FEL) you need front wheel braking.
Using 4wd should be Plan A. Dropping bucket (and implement) into dirt or wet grass to stop should be Plan B. Right before Plan C(hit)!
FTG-05
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I live on a hill, but since I'm retired, for the most part I get to decide when and where I go up or down.
Some things I've done to improve my tractor's ability to go up and down:
- Filled both rear and front tires. Rear wheels have concrete, steel and lead wheel weights (500 lbs total). Loaded front tires worked better then 2 30 gallon water filled barrels in the FEL).
- Added front weights to the weight bar.
- Added 910 lbs to my 675 lb BB, which is my usual 3ph counter weight; if I'm bushhogging, I use my BH286 ~1k lb bushhog.
- Lowered the rear and front tire pressure for full tire width contact.
- Had the rear tires and wheels widened to their widest setting (Grand L's have about 5 settings, IRC). The downside: too wide for most implements like my 6' wide BH and BB.
Some advice for going up and down hills:
- Never go down a hill without 4wd engaged. You'll do it once, take the 2" ride*, then never do it again.
- Never go down a hill without significant weight on the 3ph.
- Try to never go down a hill when it's wet, either from rain (slippery mud/ground) or dew (slippery grass).
- Except to bypass an obstacle, I never back up a hill. I want the rear tires doing most of the work, not the front. Plus it's far easier to see where you're going. Personally, I think backing up a long hill like I have is retarded. No offense.
Some pics showing the hill I have to work on:
Pics while bushhogging it:
I hope this helps!
*2" Ride: Uncontrolled ride down a hill, whereupon you suck up 2" of seat cushion before you get it back under control. Also known as "I just crapped my pants" ride in some circles.
Some things I've done to improve my tractor's ability to go up and down:
- Filled both rear and front tires. Rear wheels have concrete, steel and lead wheel weights (500 lbs total). Loaded front tires worked better then 2 30 gallon water filled barrels in the FEL).
- Added front weights to the weight bar.
- Added 910 lbs to my 675 lb BB, which is my usual 3ph counter weight; if I'm bushhogging, I use my BH286 ~1k lb bushhog.
- Lowered the rear and front tire pressure for full tire width contact.
- Had the rear tires and wheels widened to their widest setting (Grand L's have about 5 settings, IRC). The downside: too wide for most implements like my 6' wide BH and BB.
Some advice for going up and down hills:
- Never go down a hill without 4wd engaged. You'll do it once, take the 2" ride*, then never do it again.
- Never go down a hill without significant weight on the 3ph.
- Try to never go down a hill when it's wet, either from rain (slippery mud/ground) or dew (slippery grass).
- Except to bypass an obstacle, I never back up a hill. I want the rear tires doing most of the work, not the front. Plus it's far easier to see where you're going. Personally, I think backing up a long hill like I have is retarded. No offense.
Some pics showing the hill I have to work on:
Pics while bushhogging it:
I hope this helps!
*2" Ride: Uncontrolled ride down a hill, whereupon you suck up 2" of seat cushion before you get it back under control. Also known as "I just crapped my pants" ride in some circles.
ericm979
Super Member
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- Santa Cruz Mountains CA, Southern OR
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the 3pt can be pushed up- the tractor does not lock the 3pt or push down on it. So an implement on the 3pt won't prevent the tractor from flipping over backwards. But the loader can push down so the bucket would help prevent flipping over the front axle.
I have a steep road with stuff at the top that needs chipping. I've been waiting for the road to dry but my plan is to back up it in 4wd with the loader bucket near the ground. The 1000lb chipper on the back should help too.
I have a steep road with stuff at the top that needs chipping. I've been waiting for the road to dry but my plan is to back up it in 4wd with the loader bucket near the ground. The 1000lb chipper on the back should help too.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
What he said ^. His slopes look like the slopes around here.
