Tractor tie down question

[jayhaitch]

I finally bought a trailer, and will need to buy tie-downs for my MF GC2310. It weighs 2600 lbs with loader and BH. So......

I know 4 tie-downs are recommended, and will do so. How much rating do I need? I've read that in a sudden stop, the weight of the load multiplies by about 3. So my tractor will become a 7800 lb lump of inertia. Do I then divide this by 2, and get 4 tie-downs each rated at 3900 max load, or do I divide it by 4 to get 1950 lb rating? Assume all 4 tie-downs are taught and correctly attached to strong enough D-rings and properly secured to the axles.

My question relates to forces and direction. In a rapid stop, will all 4 tie-downs contribute evenly to resisting inertia, or is it mostly the rears for a sudden stop in forward, and the front tie-downs in a sudden stop in reverse if that were possible?

 

[roxynoodle]

It is probably overkill, I know, but I bought 4 heavy duty ones rated at 11k lbs each for my trailer. It wasn't just a matter of buying heavy enough rated ones, the hooks on the chains had to fit on them also. Another possibility you could consider would be to have stack pockets welded to the sides of the frame. I don't know if you have TSC where you are but they sell both the D rings and stake pockets.

 

[gordon21]

Get four 5/16" grade 70 chains and four ratchet binders as a minimum. A fifth one for the backhoe would be even better. You can probably find somewhere to buy a 20' chain with hooks on both ends for about $25. Northern Tool-TSC-Home Depot-Lowes

Cut the 20' chain in half at the store using their chain cutter and you will then have TWO needed 10' chains-each one with a hook. You do not need a hook at each end of the chain. Don't bother asking the employees to do it. You will probably need to do it yourself.

Buy two chains and it will make four tie downs. Two chains and four ratchet binders should cost about $90-110

 

[kentrodngun]

I second Gordon21's advice. Four chains with binders weaved through the stake pockets or on D rings. Agri-supply (.com). HarborFreight (.com) and Homier (.com) also sell Grade 70 chains and a lot cheaper than Northern Tool (whose shipping costs are very prohibitive). I think I bought my 3/8" 20' Grade 70 chains from Agri-supply for about $32 + shipping - don't forget to order extra hooks. You can probably get away with a stout 2" strap to secure the rear attachments but chain is always better although it might scratch up that pretty paint. Be safe and happy trailering.

 

[jayhaitch]

Am I right in thinking the 7800 lbs should be divided by 2 not 4 in calculating the strenth rating needed?

What is the tensile strength of grade 70 vs grade 40 chain, and what diam gives what rating? I've been confused by too many choices as I've been looking.

 

[VistanTN]

If the load were "free floating" you'd be right to just divide by 2 -- and that's the safest calculation. In a sudden stop, you also have wheels on the deck (presumably with brakes and tranny locked/engaged) that transmits a portion of the force back to the trailer (and your tow vehicle) brakes. But for your question, the front chains contribute nothing in stopping the forward motion of the load.

I'll leave the chain rating question to someone else ... that's something I know little about and would just have to research.

VistanTN

 

[patrick_g]

I these days of litigation for the fun of it, you want DOT grade 70 chains and hooks so if the worst happens you can prove due dilligence in securing your load. Often the load will shift a bit so always stop and check shortly after taking off as you may need to retighten something. Load binders AKA boomers are fine but if yoiu get slack in the chain they may open up and that is NOT GOOD. I use scraps of wire to secure the handles against that possibility. I also have racheting binderrs but prefer the NON racheting for being fast and easy for me (250 lbs) so I can snug them. If my wife were doing it then the racheting would be unmistakenly vastlly superior.

Angle the front chains a fair bit forward and the rear chains backwards. Just cinching the load down to the trailer lets the load move forward and back too easy. With chains pulling forward or rearward AND down the load is held from moving forward or back by chain tension not tire friction on the potentially slipery trailer floor.

In case of a minor mishap the G forces will easily exceed 2G so if there is any doubt whatsoever, get the peace of miond of a larger size chain. They don't cost all that much more and last for decades. I see way too many people securing tractors with chains that might be just about right for chaining a junk yard dog but would be useless in any "situation."

Pat

 

[mchasal]

What is the tensile strength of grade 70 vs grade 40 chain, and what diam gives what rating? I've been confused by too many choices as I've been looking.

Grade 70 or Transport chain has a higher breaking strength for the same Working Load Limit (WLL). For example, a 1000# WLL G43 chain might have a breaking strength of 2000#. A 1000# WLL G70 would have a breaking strength of 4000#. This is to allow for the increases in force that transport can cause in an accident or even hard braking.

Not sure if it's entirely standardized, but 1/4 G70 has a 3150# WLL, 5/16 is 4700#, and 3/8 is 6600#. My tractor weighs about 4000# and I use 4 5/16 G70 chains.

I also use the lever binders as the ratchet ones are just too slow. I wrap the tail of the chain around the lever to (hopefully) prevent it from opening.

Mike

 

[jayhaitch]

"Not sure if it's entirely standardized, but 1/4 G70 has a 3150# WLL, 5/16 is 4700#, and 3/8 is 6600#. My tractor weighs about 4000# and I use 4 5/16 G70 chains."

So, do I have this correct? The working load limit is the static load, and the breaking limit is for the extra inertial weight? My 2600 lb 2310 could be safely tied down by two 2600 lb WLL chains, one back, one front, if there was no dynamic component to the load during transport? But since there is, and the tied down load can double, I'd need 2600 x 2= 5200 lb breaking limit chain for the front and the same for the back, so if I have 2 chains on each axle, I'm back to 2600 lb chain, but his time 2600 lb breaking force chain, x 4 in total? (Did I say that clearly enough? Clearer than mud.....?)

If true, then 1/4 G70 chain should be fine, 2 on each axle. C'est correct mon ami?

 

[jayhaitch]

I just found this definition:

WORKING LOAD LIMIT: The maximum load weight a tie-down should be subjected to during normal use. To assist in making the proper tie-down choice the Federal D.O.T. requires the Working Load Limit to be 1/3 of the Rated Capacity.

This suggest's I'm getting too technical for my own good So, if my tractor weighs 2600 lbs, I get 2 straps/chains of 1300 lb WLL or greater on each axle. Or to be really safe, get each tie down to be WLL 2600 or greater, then each single tie down could handle the weight of the entire tractor. Am I finally right (and simpler too)?

PS: if I'm still wrong, my excuse is it's 0135h and I've just come off a 12h shift......