Tractor tie down question

[jarokoro]

I have a custom-built 20ft 12,000lb GN (see pics) that I haul my JD 990 on. I use 3/8 inch chain on each corner tied to the stake pockets. I use one 14ft long chain attached to separate hooks on the front of the tractor. I hook the chain on the front and back-up tighten, then set the brake. Then I secure the rear of the tractor.

I took 4 pieces of 1-foot chain WLL of 5900lbs and attached to the tractor with grade 8 bolts (see pics). I do not chain down the bucket it usually sits on the trailer deck. When I have the brush mower on, the rear chains come over the top and hold it in place. I have pulled the rig to Michigan and back and all over mid-Missouri with no shifting or loosening. I do stop and check my load periodically and look for shifting or loosing. I used to use regular pull over binders, I have since upgraded to the ratcheting type. I think they are easier to use and even my wife can do the tie-down. I bought them from the Harbor Freight Store for about $17. They also have a WLL of 5900 lbs. The 3/8 inch chain is rated not to exceed 12,000lb single chain pull. If you set up your tractor right it is easy to load and unload and tie down safely and securely. I can do a complete off load and reload in about 15 min. (There have been plenty of times where I have had to off load unhook and hook up something else and reload and head out again)

 

[patrick_g]

jarokoro, You are a prudent citizen! No overkill, just good prudent practice. Of course there are those good ole boys who tie their load with a wet noodle for last 35 years and never had a problem yet so are sure you and I are crazy for taking the precautions we do.

I like the chains in the rear. I'll be looking at the back end of my Kubota to see if there is a place to put hooks if not chains with hooks. What was your thinking on using chains with hooks instead of just hooks?

Again, good job!

Pat

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. I don't think anyone has ever been cited for being 'too carefull'

Soundguy

 

[AlanB]

Jarokoro, man I like your rear tie's, always something I struggle with. Will have to look again and see if I can steal that idea and apply it too my tractor.

Thanks for taking the time to photograph and post.

 

[jarokoro]

I was thinking about just going with hooks but there is no place to attach easily without fabricating something. It cost less than $20 for the hooks and chain and bolts. It took less than half hour to attach and that is with my 3-year-old daughter helping hide the nuts and washers I would recommend Teflon nuts then you will not have to worry about them. I used regular nuts with lock washer and I ended up setting the thread with a punch.

 

[jarokoro]

Another thing with the chain tie downs is they are solid enough you can pull with them. I have used the points on front and rear to pull out landscape shrubs and trees. It made hooking up and pulling very easy.

 

[Soundguy]

They make nylon snatch and lift straps that do just fine.

Soundguy

 

[patrick_g]

jarokoro, It is just a small criticism and may never make a difference in your case but... In your picture #5 showing your chain tied to a stake pocket. Although you are careful and check your load for slack and shifting and this comment may never help you, here tis in case you like it and to instruct the less experienced:

Instead of wrapping the chain around the pocket and hooking the hook to the chain, wrap the chain just the same as before but hook the hook to the top of the stake pocket. If for any reason there ever were slack the hook will be held by gravity and not unhook itself. I can't take credit for this method, I was shown by a much more experienced fellow who put himself throuigh college brush hogging and was the sales person who sold me my tractor.

In case the above was not clear (what often seems crystal to me is pretty muddy to evereyone else do to my poor descriptive powers.)

Drop the hook down through the stake pocket and then bring the hook up and hang it on the top of the stake pocket. Alternatively you can shove the hook up through the pocket and hook it on the top too but it is harder to push a chain than to dangle it.

A hint for folks using over center binders (boomers) instead of racheting ones: If just a little slack develops in the chain while hauling the binder will open up and make lots of slack. I keep lengths of single strand wire (I use #12 or # 14 electrical wire scraps) handy to tie the binder in the latched position. Then if a little slack develops the binder does not open and give you a lot more. This helps keep your load safe till the next time you check it and can correct the problem.

Pat

 

[Soundguy]

You may be a redneck if you keep tick and flea soap in the shower.
Pat

I just noticed your tagline. ... I guess I'm a redneck!

We usully wash 3 of our 5 dogs in the shower.. the small ones.. the jack russle, beagle, and papillon. It's way easier than wrestling with them in the laundry room tub/sink.

( the other 2 big bogs get washed out ont he driveway like god meant it to be.. )

Soundguy

 

[dgl24087]

I just found this out last year.....living in Ohio, it is illegal to have a SMV (slow moving vehicle) sign visible from the rear if it is loaded on a trailer. In other words, if a motorist comes up behind you and you are pulling a trailer with your impliment, tractor, etc and the SMV sign is visible- it is ticket-able.

Now I flip up the seat and strap the seat up to the steering wheel so it isn't visible.

We back the tractor onto the trailer.

 

[Ctgcwiqc]

I would be concerned with the shear strength of the bolts you are using to attach the chain to your tractor. Depending on the amount of torque applied based upon the yield strength of your bolts you could have an extremely weak connection there if in a sudden stop or collision etc.

I have a custom-built 20ft 12,000lb GN (see pics) that I haul my JD 990 on. I use 3/8 inch chain on each corner tied to the stake pockets. I use one 14ft long chain attached to separate hooks on the front of the tractor. I hook the chain on the front and back-up tighten, then set the brake. Then I secure the rear of the tractor.

I took 4 pieces of 1-foot chain WLL of 5900lbs and attached to the tractor with grade 8 bolts (see pics). I do not chain down the bucket it usually sits on the trailer deck. When I have the brush mower on, the rear chains come over the top and hold it in place. I have pulled the rig to Michigan and back and all over mid-Missouri with no shifting or loosening. I do stop and check my load periodically and look for shifting or loosing. I used to use regular pull over binders, I have since upgraded to the ratcheting type. I think they are easier to use and even my wife can do the tie-down. I bought them from the Harbor Freight Store for about $17. They also have a WLL of 5900 lbs. The 3/8 inch chain is rated not to exceed 12,000lb single chain pull. If you set up your tractor right it is easy to load and unload and tie down safely and securely. I can do a complete off load and reload in about 15 min. (There have been plenty of times where I have had to off load unhook and hook up something else and reload and head out again)

 

[Gary Fowler]

I would be concerned with the shear strength of the bolts you are using to attach the chain to your tractor. Depending on the amount of torque applied based upon the yield strength of your bolts you could have an extremely weak connection there if in a sudden stop or collision etc.

The bolt is obviously much larger than the chain links thus the links are the weakest point. I dont think I would worry too much about the bolt shearing especially if it is a grade 5 or higher.
Most bolt material websites will give you the shear strength of each size and grade of bolt. If you are concerned even a little, look it up but I would think that your bolt shear is way higher than the rated chain load which is the max that you should be putting on it anyway. There is a finite limit to the amount of load that you can put on the tractor from braking. If you were to hit a solid concrete wall at 55 MPH you would maybe overstress the chains, but at that point, I wouldn't think you would have to worry about the tractor coming loose or any other earthly worries.

 

[Soundguy]

the bolt is no doubt side loaded though.. not in tension like the links.. also keep in mind the material the bolt is going into. hopefull y it is coars thread not fine, and hopefully the depth of the threads are at least as deep as the width of the faster, not counting leading thread. also.. excess length ont he bolt will give leverage, if there is any play in chain to bolt..

 

[Ctgcwiqc]

My comment was taking into consideration over torquing which would drastically reduce the strength of the connection. I'm willing to bet it was not torqued. I'll look up the stress values later, but that all is moot if the bolt wasn't torqued.