Tractor tie down question

[jayhaitch]

I finally bought a trailer, and will need to buy tie-downs for my MF GC2310. It weighs 2600 lbs with loader and BH. So......

I know 4 tie-downs are recommended, and will do so. How much rating do I need? I've read that in a sudden stop, the weight of the load multiplies by about 3. So my tractor will become a 7800 lb lump of inertia. Do I then divide this by 2, and get 4 tie-downs each rated at 3900 max load, or do I divide it by 4 to get 1950 lb rating? Assume all 4 tie-downs are taught and correctly attached to strong enough D-rings and properly secured to the axles.

My question relates to forces and direction. In a rapid stop, will all 4 tie-downs contribute evenly to resisting inertia, or is it mostly the rears for a sudden stop in forward, and the front tie-downs in a sudden stop in reverse if that were possible?

 

[roxynoodle]

It is probably overkill, I know, but I bought 4 heavy duty ones rated at 11k lbs each for my trailer. It wasn't just a matter of buying heavy enough rated ones, the hooks on the chains had to fit on them also. Another possibility you could consider would be to have stack pockets welded to the sides of the frame. I don't know if you have TSC where you are but they sell both the D rings and stake pockets.

 

[gordon21]

Get four 5/16" grade 70 chains and four ratchet binders as a minimum. A fifth one for the backhoe would be even better. You can probably find somewhere to buy a 20' chain with hooks on both ends for about $25. Northern Tool-TSC-Home Depot-Lowes

Cut the 20' chain in half at the store using their chain cutter and you will then have TWO needed 10' chains-each one with a hook. You do not need a hook at each end of the chain. Don't bother asking the employees to do it. You will probably need to do it yourself.

Buy two chains and it will make four tie downs. Two chains and four ratchet binders should cost about $90-110

 

[kentrodngun]

I second Gordon21's advice. Four chains with binders weaved through the stake pockets or on D rings. Agri-supply (.com). HarborFreight (.com) and Homier (.com) also sell Grade 70 chains and a lot cheaper than Northern Tool (whose shipping costs are very prohibitive). I think I bought my 3/8" 20' Grade 70 chains from Agri-supply for about $32 + shipping - don't forget to order extra hooks. You can probably get away with a stout 2" strap to secure the rear attachments but chain is always better although it might scratch up that pretty paint. Be safe and happy trailering.

 

[jayhaitch]

Am I right in thinking the 7800 lbs should be divided by 2 not 4 in calculating the strenth rating needed?

What is the tensile strength of grade 70 vs grade 40 chain, and what diam gives what rating? I've been confused by too many choices as I've been looking.

 

[VistanTN]

If the load were "free floating" you'd be right to just divide by 2 -- and that's the safest calculation. In a sudden stop, you also have wheels on the deck (presumably with brakes and tranny locked/engaged) that transmits a portion of the force back to the trailer (and your tow vehicle) brakes. But for your question, the front chains contribute nothing in stopping the forward motion of the load.

I'll leave the chain rating question to someone else ... that's something I know little about and would just have to research.

VistanTN

 

[patrick_g]

I these days of litigation for the fun of it, you want DOT grade 70 chains and hooks so if the worst happens you can prove due dilligence in securing your load. Often the load will shift a bit so always stop and check shortly after taking off as you may need to retighten something. Load binders AKA boomers are fine but if yoiu get slack in the chain they may open up and that is NOT GOOD. I use scraps of wire to secure the handles against that possibility. I also have racheting binderrs but prefer the NON racheting for being fast and easy for me (250 lbs) so I can snug them. If my wife were doing it then the racheting would be unmistakenly vastlly superior.

Angle the front chains a fair bit forward and the rear chains backwards. Just cinching the load down to the trailer lets the load move forward and back too easy. With chains pulling forward or rearward AND down the load is held from moving forward or back by chain tension not tire friction on the potentially slipery trailer floor.

In case of a minor mishap the G forces will easily exceed 2G so if there is any doubt whatsoever, get the peace of miond of a larger size chain. They don't cost all that much more and last for decades. I see way too many people securing tractors with chains that might be just about right for chaining a junk yard dog but would be useless in any "situation."

Pat

 

[mchasal]

What is the tensile strength of grade 70 vs grade 40 chain, and what diam gives what rating? I've been confused by too many choices as I've been looking.

Grade 70 or Transport chain has a higher breaking strength for the same Working Load Limit (WLL). For example, a 1000# WLL G43 chain might have a breaking strength of 2000#. A 1000# WLL G70 would have a breaking strength of 4000#. This is to allow for the increases in force that transport can cause in an accident or even hard braking.

Not sure if it's entirely standardized, but 1/4 G70 has a 3150# WLL, 5/16 is 4700#, and 3/8 is 6600#. My tractor weighs about 4000# and I use 4 5/16 G70 chains.

I also use the lever binders as the ratchet ones are just too slow. I wrap the tail of the chain around the lever to (hopefully) prevent it from opening.

Mike

 

[jayhaitch]

"Not sure if it's entirely standardized, but 1/4 G70 has a 3150# WLL, 5/16 is 4700#, and 3/8 is 6600#. My tractor weighs about 4000# and I use 4 5/16 G70 chains."

So, do I have this correct? The working load limit is the static load, and the breaking limit is for the extra inertial weight? My 2600 lb 2310 could be safely tied down by two 2600 lb WLL chains, one back, one front, if there was no dynamic component to the load during transport? But since there is, and the tied down load can double, I'd need 2600 x 2= 5200 lb breaking limit chain for the front and the same for the back, so if I have 2 chains on each axle, I'm back to 2600 lb chain, but his time 2600 lb breaking force chain, x 4 in total? (Did I say that clearly enough? Clearer than mud.....?)

If true, then 1/4 G70 chain should be fine, 2 on each axle. C'est correct mon ami?

 

[jayhaitch]

I just found this definition:

WORKING LOAD LIMIT: The maximum load weight a tie-down should be subjected to during normal use. To assist in making the proper tie-down choice the Federal D.O.T. requires the Working Load Limit to be 1/3 of the Rated Capacity.

This suggest's I'm getting too technical for my own good So, if my tractor weighs 2600 lbs, I get 2 straps/chains of 1300 lb WLL or greater on each axle. Or to be really safe, get each tie down to be WLL 2600 or greater, then each single tie down could handle the weight of the entire tractor. Am I finally right (and simpler too)?

PS: if I'm still wrong, my excuse is it's 0135h and I've just come off a 12h shift......

 

[Soundguy]

I like to use tiedowns that are rated at 3x of the total load.. or as high as I can get them.. in the case of straps.. generally you can cind 10-12-20k# ratchet straps.

Some like chains.. Both have their applications, and pro/con.

if you get chain, get some old fire hose to run the chain thru to protect paint ( if you are so inclined ).

Nothing bad has ever happened because you had too much rating ont he chains or straps.

Also a good idea to set brakes/ leave in gear and chok wheels.. set implements down.

Soundguy

I finally bought a trailer, and will need to buy tie-downs for my MF GC2310. It weighs 2600 lbs with loader and BH. So......

I know 4 tie-downs are recommended, and will do so. How much rating do I need? I've read that in a sudden stop, the weight of the load multiplies by about 3. So my tractor will become a 7800 lb lump of inertia. Do I then divide this by 2, and get 4 tie-downs each rated at 3900 max load, or do I divide it by 4 to get 1950 lb rating? Assume all 4 tie-downs are taught and correctly attached to strong enough D-rings and properly secured to the axles.

My question relates to forces and direction. In a rapid stop, will all 4 tie-downs contribute evenly to resisting inertia, or is it mostly the rears for a sudden stop in forward, and the front tie-downs in a sudden stop in reverse if that were possible?

 

[LoneCowboy]

Chains, Chains, Chains
Get a boomer, get a cheater bar and wrap the extra chain around it.
Ain't going nowhere.

Nothing bad has ever happened because you had too much rating ont he chains or straps.

Now that's good advice.

 

[neverenough]

Nothing bad has ever happened because you had too much rating on the chains or straps.


Soundguy

Now I'm sure you had rational thought when you said this, but... You can't use 3/8 chain and binders to secure both a 6000lb tractor, and a 12hp riding mower. In order to get proper tension on the chains, you will have to put enough force to literally cause damage to the riding mower. I know what you are saying, but some people might take it out of context and actually try to do something like that.

 

[Soundguy]

Now I'm sure you had rational thought when you said this, but... You can't use 3/8 chain and binders to secure both a 6000lb tractor, and a 12hp riding mower. In order to get proper tension on the chains, you will have to put enough force to literally cause damage to the riding mower. I know what you are saying, but some people might take it out of context and actually try to do something like that.

I think perhaps you need to re-read my post. "rating' is in reference to chain strength. I.e. If you are using a HD chain.. like transport grade 70, vs lower grade.. like a 43.. then there is no downside.

I think you should be able to safely secure a riding lawnmower with a chain and binder... I've had my 700$ wallmart murray on a trailer and had a front chain and a rear strap on it.. front chain was held with a ratchet binder.. chain was passed thru a burlap sheath to protech the metal, and chain went over the axle spindles on each side.

I don't use the chain anymore.. but prefer to use 2"-3" HD nylon straps instead. You can find them in many ratings up to 20k#.. I use a minimum of 2, and at least 1+1/10' of load, securing from corners.. etc.. just depends on what I'm hauling.

I usually adjust my tiedowns till the tires squat a bit.. chain or nylon strap... makes no difference... ( again....rider mower or thousands of pounds of tractor.. makes no difference )

Soundguy

 

[Defective]

I use 3/8" grade 70 chain for almost anything I need to tie down. 6600 pound working load limit. I do have 4 lengths of 1/4" grade 70 (3150 pound limit)that I occasionally use for some smaller items (lawn tractors, ATVs, Bikes) just because it's a little easier to work with.

I've also used the 3/8" on a lawn tractor or two.

I will not use straps on any kind of live load. Anything with wheels is a live load. The problem with strap is that it does not handle shock loading at all well. It stretches too easily and allows the load to move. This increases the loading on the rebound. Chain does not act like a spring. (within reason!)

Four separate 3/8" grade 70 tie downs would be very good for a 2600 pound tractor. Choose tiedown points as far out from the tractor as you can to get the chains as close to horizontal as possible. Tension each corner until the tires look like they're loaded, then put your weight on the chains. The chains should barely deflect.

If you have any implements attached, give them each a separate chain. This includes your FEL.

One of the best trailering ideas I've seen in a while was on a tractor I saw in town a couple of months ago. The tractor had heavy plate tiepoints permanently attached to the axles just inboard of the wheels. Looked like it'd take less than 5 minutes to safely tie the tractor down and the only paint damage would be on the tiepoints.

 

[jayhaitch]

Thanks for all the great information everyone. It really helps since much of this is new to me.

I had a thought about load binders. Could I attach the front of the tractor with chain only, leave the tractor in neutral, tighten the rear chains with a loadbinder each, THEN set the parking brake? Would this provide enough tension on the front, or do I have to have a loadbinder on each chain?

I'm asking as I saw the excavator for our house attach his machine with chain only, but obviously he had premeasured the distance, and stopped his machine at the same point on the trailer, so everything was custom. I saw quite a bit of slack on the chain though. I guess a track has a lot more friction than rubber tires to resist movement during a sudden stop.

 

[Defective]

Jay,

I've seen front chains tensioned by rolling the machine back. Haven't done it. Don't plan on doing it. Loadbinders are not expensive. I park the machine where I want it for balance, then chain it down.

Try not to drive anywhere near your excavator when he's hauling his equipment. Any slack chain on the load is just there for looks. It isn't doing anything to help restrain the machine.

The easiest way to break a chain is to shock load it from a slack condition. Our safety officer has a chain link hanging on the wall that used to be part of a grade 80 1/2" chain. This link failed from shock loading with a 4 ton load on it. (that's only 2/3 of its WLL) The scenario was simple enough: two chains on the load... other chain was taking most of the strain due to balance issues... other chain was not correctly hooked & came off... When the load took the slack out of this chain after about a 6 inch fall the link exploded. It took a while to find this link at the far end of the plant.

 

[Dargo]

Aww, heck, after having two straps snap last year in transit (there is a looong thread on that incident) I've decided to go one step further. I now not only use 4 grade 70 3/8" US made chains and binders, but let all the air out of my tires and weld the rims to the steel bed of my trailer. I just use my DeWalt 18 volt grinder to cut the welds off when I get to my other property.

 

[Defective]

Better yet...

Dismantle the tractor & put the parts in steel crates welded to the deck. Saves time on grinding those welds off.

 

[keeney]

Yep, 30,000 lbs of chain binding capacity holding the tractor to the trailer. Just hope the trailer isn't attached to the truck with some 1/4" pot-metal, rusted-out, half-ground-away safety chains hooked onto the sheet-metal loops punched in a bumper which is held to the truck with some bailing wire and duck tape...