Tractor tie down question

[Highbeam]

I use 4 chains and 4 ratcheting binders. All the DOT regs I've ever read refer to the WLL of the tie down material so don't worry about the other specs.

In regards to the setting of the two front chains and then moving the tractor back to tighten them- I've tried that too. It doesn't work unless you are perfectly centered between the tie downs, meaning as you back up one or the other chain will get tight when the other is still slack. Much easier to use four binders.

 

[Soundguy]

My MIL's parents had a tobacco farm near that area.

I like that country .. Jasper is another place that you can't tell which side of the line you are on.

Soundguy

But Tallahassee is in Ga, isnt it? Every one from south fla that comes to Tallahassee says "Are we still in Fla?" My place is 15 miles north of Tallahassee in Havana. We pronounce it HAY-Vanna , the orrigin of the shade tobbacco that was the outer wrappings for HAVATAMPA cigars. The Swisher Sweets came from a few miles up the road from the proprety where I keep my tractor.

 

[patrick_g]

If you elect to have stake pockets on the sides of your trailer and use them to secure your grade 70 chains then here is how you hook them:

Drop the hook through the center of the stake pocket and then bring the hook up on the oputside of the pocket and attach it to the top of the stake pocket. This uses gravity to hold the hook on the pocket so that if something shifts and you get some slack in the chain the hook doesn't fall off the pocket.

If you attach the hook to the bottom of the pocket then you are depending on tension to keep the hook engaged and if for any reason there is ever slack the hook falls free and disengages. If you use single stroke binders (non racheting) then use a scrap of wire to wire the handle in the closed position. then if you loose tension for any reason the binder doesn't just fall open which they will easily do if you get slack in the chain for any reason.

Pat

 

[jayhaitch]

My trailer has 4 tie-down rings attached to the floor, so hook up should be easy. Ratcheting binders are ridiculously expensive here for some reason, regular load-binders are much less. All the easily accessible chain is Chinese however

Thanks to everyone. You've clarified a ton of questions. I'll look for US or Canadian made 1/4 or 5/16" grade 70 chain, and 4 load binders. Thanks again!

 

[Soundguy]

Since we are talking chain, My vote would be the 5/16 chain. it should be very similar in price per foot to the 1/4 and give you extra margin for error.

Also.. check to see if your 'D' rings are attacked to frame members, and not just decking.. 10k# of chain rating attached to a 2x6 deck member won't last long in an accident.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[RHP]

Seems like everyone is using 4 chains?

I have always used 2 long chains, one in front, one in back. Through the "D" ring, around the frame of the tractor, back through the other side "D" ring, get a grab with the chain binder and up to the chain coming from the frame. Tighten down with a cheater bar if necessary, wrap extra chain around the load binder so it can't come open.

Repeat at the rear of the tractor.

You only need 2 chain binders this way, and have 2 long chains as part of your chain supply to pull neighbor's tractors out of the muck when they're hopelessly trapped!

 

[Soundguy]

Some states require 4 tie downs from corners.

Soundguy

 

[mchasal]

Seems like everyone is using 4 chains?

I have always used 2 long chains, one in front, one in back. Through the "D" ring, around the frame of the tractor, back through the other side "D" ring, get a grab with the chain binder and up to the chain coming from the frame. Tighten down with a cheater bar if necessary, wrap extra chain around the load binder so it can't come open.

Repeat at the rear of the tractor.

You only need 2 chain binders this way, and have 2 long chains as part of your chain supply to pull neighbor's tractors out of the muck when they're hopelessly trapped!

Right, and with 2 chains if ANYTHING fails the equipment is loose. If you lose a single tie-down, chain, hook, binder or you mess up one of the steps in your process, you are in trouble. Imagine that rear chain not being there, going down the road at a reasonable speed, and having to try and stop suddenly. I can picture that Massey Ferguson logo getting bigger and bigger in my mirror as it's sliding towards the back of my head. With 4 chains you can lose one and the machine is still reasonably secure.

As far as I know, 4 tie downs are required above a certain weight. A lot of CUTs and SubCUTs will fall under that limit, but I know I feel a lot better with 4 back there instead of 2.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

As far as I know, 4 tie downs are required above a certain weight. A lot of CUTs and SubCUTs will fall under that limit, but I know I feel a lot better with 4 back there instead of 2.

4 separate chains/tie-downs are required on WHEELED cargo over 10,000. Under 10,000, 2 chains will suffice, but they need to be pulling towards 4 corners of the trailer.

One area where some people neglect to follow the "law" is with securing implements and/or loaders and back hoes attached to a tractor. They must have separate chains/tie-downs in addition to those holding the tractor.

For instance, you have a TLB. It would require one chain on the hoe, 2 chains on the tractor and one more on the loader. Tractor would get 4 chains if the total weight of the TLB is over 10,000. Very rarely do I ever see a TLB chained this way. Apparently it isn't enforced to the letter of the law, here anyway.

 

[patrick_g]

Roger that, Roger.

In Oklahoma our ODOT doesn't beat up the private farmer/rancher all that bad. I personally never even considered 1/4 inch chain and use 3/8 for my tie downs with non-racheting binders and hooks secured to stake bed pockets. It is surely more than enough and shows due diligence plus should there ever be an incident. If you get in an accident and roll the trailer even 1/2 inch probably wouldn't help but 3/8 indicates I was more than prudent.

I use only two chains, one front and one back and have no problems. It seems that my diamond plate tandem fenders (pretty stout) have only a couple inches of clearance on the rear wheels at max wide (only way I ever use the tractor.) The tractor can't slide more than an inch sideways on the trailer to the left or right (hasn't slid at all in last 5 years.) I never take the FEL off the tractor since doing it a couple times for practice when the tractor was new. I have something on the FEL structure, either a FEL bucket or palet forks usually but sometimes a hay spike. I usually ensure that the implement in front is snug against the pipe rail for a little extra security.

I intend to weld some sturdy D rings around the trailer to have places to secure straps.

By the way, if you have a cab then be sure to close and LOCK the doors prior to hitting the highway. If a door opens at a decent speed it can be ripped right off or at least tweaked enough to smash the glass.

Pat