Tractor tire chains revisited

[powerscol]

Well second major snow storm hit and I was out moving it around with my Bobcat CT 235 using the bucket. Everything was good until I got on the hard pack.

First I am running the GP tires 15x19.5 8 ply in the rear (filled) and 25 x 8.5 - 14 (4 ply) up front - turns out they arr considered garden tractor /atv tires

Once on the hard pack on a slight side slope (say 4%) it would not back out of the pile...thank goodness I remembered the white peddle that locks the rear diff , but this almost got sideways in the ditch..yes I was in 4x4 mode. I also noticed it was sliding a lot in the turns. I do have my 1000 lb tiller on the back for traction - might be too heavy as in years past I had the 650lb box blade back there. Problem now is I cant get to it as it is buried in the back pasture currently.

I read through all the threads I could and settled on the following tire chains. I like them as they will prevent sideways sliding that normal cross ladder chains wont. I also considered the reinforced net style (but noticed the gaps in the pictures) and Duo-Ladder combo V bar (solved the gap prob;em, but with just a cross chain) - do I need the v-bar

Tractor Studded Tire Chains for rear other available are 15-19.5 Tractor Tire Chains
ATV Studded Tire Chains for the front others available are ATV Studded Tire Chains These look light weight though.

Question on is is this a good place to buy? and
Question 2 is am I looking at the right type of chain for my needs.
Should I get the tensioners?
Should I invest in a tool?

Also I cant find information on the inside clearance I need between the tire and fender well. Thoughts?

Any suggestions are appreciated, especially other sources for this type. I only want to do this once and dont want to keep doing repairs as some have mentioned in their posts.

Thanks for any help - need to order soon.

Merry Christmas and the best for the New Year

 

[Rustyiron]

A lot of guy's here like them, I have not dealt with them myself. The ultimate chain is the studded, also the most expensive and will last the longest. This type should fit snug and need no tensioners, but you don't want to put these on more than once a season!
Everyone has a little different snow & ice conditions, I would think you would be fine with the "reinforced net style". Looks like a bargain with the added lugs. With this style I would think that you would need the adjusters, but a lot of people just use rubber "bungie cords" esp. at tractor speeds. Me included, much cheaper.
As for the tool, I make do with existing tools I have like a grinder with a cut off wheel, and if you find that you need them, you should be able to get them locally. NAPA prolly has them or can get em.

 

[George2615]

Tire Chains.com is a very good company. Many here have purchased from them. I think they have very competitive prices and have bought from them. My last set i found at a local store on closeout.
The studded V bar chains would be best for hard pack snow and ice. Much better than standard ladder type. But if parked inside, put down some sacrificial plywood to park on as V bars will leave marks and dig into concrete.
Rear weight on the 3 pt. is a plus for traction.
For tensioners I buy the 12" HD black rubber bungees at HF.
A tool used to replaced cross links is quicker but can be done with hand tools, just takes longer.
My previous tractor (Mahindra 2615) also used 15-19.5 tires. I had to buy 2" wheel spacers for chain clearance. If you can stick your fist in between the tire and fender you have enough room for chains. Not enough if only a finger fits.
My LS has enough room for standard ladder chains but would need spacers for the studded chains you linked to.
Hope this helps.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I got my v-bar chains for the back of my traactor from there and was happy with price and service. They have made a huge difference for me. I also use some heavy duty lawn mower chains that were free from a neighbor on the front and they help a lot too. Ed

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Those studded net chains look great. I am not a fan of the duo grip chains even with the v bars. I got them for my r1 fronts and even tightened up the pattern but I'm still not overly thrilled with them. I ended up going with a set of aquiline talons on the rear and I love those. I don't have concrete or pavement to worry about but I do get some slick mud in the horse pasture when I'm putting round bales out. I guess I have an odd situation with snow, ice, and deeper mud. I also think the r1 tires make things alot more difficult. I have r4 on the kubota and 2 link v bars and those have been great chains in that application. I think the height of the chain clearing the tread bars Mars a huge difference in how well they work.

 

[powerscol]

Red Neck Racing
What kind of sidewall clearance do you need for the aquiline talons . Could you measure your set up on the inside as to how far the project from the tire sidewall. I have 2" at the tire bulge to my inside fender on my GP tires.

Thanks

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I'll measure them next I get a chance, my wheels are adjustable on the jd and they are set at the widest setting so I think I have 8" of clearance or something along those lines. They really don't stick out to far but I think the chains is 3/8" so a smaller tire may have smaller chains links.

 

[Fallon]

I misread my tire size & got some gnarly ones from TireChains.com. Of course they were way loose & & realized my mistake. Like you I was depressed to see my 32hp L3200 classified as a garden tractor with limited chain options. I put 2 link ladder Vbars on the front & was dam impressed. I could actually turn when plowing & it increased my plow load capacity by at least 30%. I've got R4 industrials on & am using a tensioner. I've heard mixed reviews where some people get better results with the tensioners & others without. Given my experience I'm not likely to even bother trying them without.

I have chains for my rears, but can't mount them until I get some wheel spacers so I have clearance between the tire, chains & fenders.

 

[bigtiller]

When I call my JD 2720 a lawn mower, most people are expecting something smaller.

 

[Dave M7040]

After years of making do with lesser quality chains, this year I was finally able to afford TRYGG studded chains.
I cannot find the invoice but the cost in Canadian $ was approx $1,400
My tires are 16.9 x 28 R4 on a Kubota M7040 with 4 x4.
I purchased the set of TRYGG chains from my local Kubota dealer which came from Trygg's Canadian distributor WALCO.
The chains details are:
#603541
TRYGG SMT 95
16.9-28
9.5mm

TRYGG’s web site says: “Unlike the TRYGG SMT Flexi these chains are made to fit unique tire sizes and no extra adjustments should be necessary on new tires.”
This statement turned out to be a little optimistic and some fiddling was necessary.
The Canadian distributor does not import completed chains but rather makes them up to fit a unique order.
Today was a big storm and I was very pleased with the improvement in traction they provided.
My two brothers have paved driveways and before the snow came I drove on the pavement to see what damage if any they caused,
There was just small polished circles where the stud touched the asphalt. On interlocking pavers I would not use them.
Dave m7040

 

[Rustyiron]

After years of making do with lesser quality chains, this year I was finally able to afford TRYGG studded chains.
Dave m7040

They are as close to "ice magnets" as possible, and the higher investment should pay off in longevity:thumbsup: I'm tempted to get a set for the rears on my tractor. There's a set on C/L to fit my 18.4x30, "used 2 times" for $1000. $1400 new.

 

[oosik]

When I had the Ford 1700 4WD I used cross-linked V-bar chains. They were specifically made for tractor use and were EXTREMELY heavy. I never used bunge cord or tensioners. However, due to their weight the installation procedure was time consuming. I would spend quite a bit of time getting them as tight as possible, knowing that with use they would loosen somewhat.

The chains provided unbelievable traction but also made the ride somewhat "cobbie".

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Here is a pic of my chains installed. Approximately 1.5" standoff.

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

Not very much room between tire and inside fenders for chains on my l4740 with the 17.5 24 industrial tires so I had to go with aquiline H bar chains for compact tractors. One of the sides were longer and didn't fit very well and I had to modify the chain so was not impressed with that. I have bungie cords as tensioners and have them is tight as I can get them but they seem to move around a lot. I have many steep driveways I have to do so they get worked hard.

As for wear I do about 25 km on pavement every storm. After 5 storms they are not wearing to bad. I will see what they look like at the end of the season.

 

[powerscol]

Update - Joe at Quality Chain is checking into a custom fabrication with a narrower width (20") to fit higher on my R4 tires. My "Titan HD 15x19.5 NHS Contractor FWD" tires have a 14" tread width which is 1" narrower than the typical 15x19.5 R4 tires. 2" down from the top of the tread, and at the tread base I have 3" of clearance. That clearance decreases to 2", 5" down form the top. Will know a bit later on this. He has a shipment of bulk length Trygg Safety Grip (bar diamond and cross links) and other patterns coming in and can fab up the width and length for a higher fit where I have 3" of clearance. Will know more later.

Anyone running the Trygg chains?

Happy New Year - Keith

 

[The Fred]

Aqualine Talons are the best. I started with duo-ladders and then bought Aqualine Talons one year later. I run V bars on the front too as my drive is 10% and ice in the coldest months of the year.

My snowblowing experience went from downright dangerous to a walk in the park with studded rear chains. R4s stink on hard snow and ice.

You really need at least 2.5 inches on the inside because the manufacturer wants those chains run a bit loose so they travel slightly around the tire as you move.

I had to move my wheels to their outermost position although I did run them close (2.5 inches clearance) the first season I had them. Expensive but worth it.

Regards, Fred

 

[Rustyiron]

Anyone running the Trygg chains?

Happy New Year - Keith

I have them, DaveM7040 does, and it looks like redneckracing has them also from his pic. (above).

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

Ok what is the secret of keeping these friging chains in place. I have aquiline H pattern with bars on a 17.5 by 24 wheel I get them as tight as I can on the inside then bunggie them tight on the outside. The move around to the point that the inside almost comes over the wheel on one side and the other is down near the axle. I run on the road about 10 km every snow storm. Man they are getting on my nerves for one the chains were not even the same length as each other.

Fred mention do not tension them tight. Any advice?

 

[Agvg]

Are they to narrow? Picture?

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

thanks for your reply. The chains if anything is to big. I had to remove a cross link because when I hook them on the inside of the tire I ran pass the first cross link. No pictures. I deleted them. I will post some new ones tomorrow.

I can tighten them up on the inside so they are a little ways up the inside of the tire from the rim. When I tighten them down on the outside the H can be around the middle of the tire like they should be but it doesn't take long for them to readjust themselves. I am thinking I am tensioning to tight and maybe not be consistent all the way around the tire thus pulling them off sided.