Tractor tire chains revisited

Agvg · Jan 1, 2016

Strange, if you thigthen them and chain is centred and goes way down on the tire on both sides they shouldn't be able to move over the tire.

RedNeckRacin · Jan 1, 2016

I run my talons loose, they seem to clean out better but I noticed that if I'm driving cross slope I have almost walked them off. I would make sure the tail chains and outer loops are exactly the same length. My instructions said I should be able to get a fist between the sidewall of the tire and cm the chains and that's how I have been running them. They are on 16.9-30 tires.

Agvg · Jan 2, 2016

Are they going off the tire they are to loose, the point of not having them to tight are to reduce wear on the tire.

Agvg · Jan 2, 2016

My chains

Agvg · Jan 2, 2016

And to get an fist behind the side chain is way to loose.

RedNeckRacin · Jan 2, 2016

Agvg said:
And to get an fist behind the side chain is way to loose.

Says you. That's what the manufacturer specs for chain tightness. I could find their installation instructions if you really want me to.

Agvg · Jan 2, 2016

I know they say that but if they almost fall off they are to loose. I have 30 to 40mm on my chains and that works well. Can you tighten them more?

Dave M7040 · Jan 2, 2016

I am not trying to get into the debate of tensioners vs no tensioners.
As I said in a previous post, I now have studded TRYGG on my Kubota M7040 4x4.
There was a day when I made up chains consisting of simple ladder style chains overlaid with Volvo Military truck chains to use on my Nuffield 465 with 16.9 x 30 tires.
They were a bit of a mess but worked extremely well.
To keep everything in place I first tried the rubber bungee and then the elastic stretchy things but they had no staying power.
In the cold they lost their strength and also when wet.
Next I tried simple springs running across the wheel but found the chains did not stay in place as the pressure from the springs was not uniform.
My last and best solution was to put a ring in the middle of the wheel and then run springs radially out to the chains.
This has worked great for years.
Places like TSC and some hardware stores sell the rings. I think they are used for some harness purposes.
Nothing special about the springs just short enough to have some tension when you stretch them into place

Dave M7040

Green Acres Homestead · Jan 3, 2016

I think Dave said a mouth full. I got my chains to stay in place fairly good by having the same tension all the way around. Also I do not have them really tight. It seems they move around a bit when gripping to go up a steep driveway but when I go out on the road and driving to the next driveway it seems that the zcenrafugicial force realigns them to where they should be. Perhaps if I put them really tight with consistent forceful tensioner it would work as well. Thanks for all the view points.

RedNeckRacin · Jan 3, 2016

Agvg said:
I know they say that but if they almost fall off they are to loose. I have 30 to 40mm on my chains and that works well. Can you tighten them more?

Well I have a fist under my 16.9-30 rears and it seems to work very well. I have only ever had problems on a side hill one time but that's about it.

Winmac · Jan 3, 2016

Agvg said:
My chains

I have a set like these, I believe they are "Norse" brand and they do need be tighter. Great in the woods not so much on the flat, very rough and we would have to constantly pull them back to centre to keep them on the tire. Now we are using a trygg chains, they run loose and have had no issues falling off and they are smooth on the road.
What works for one chain installation may not apply to another brand.

ultrarunner · Jan 3, 2016

I've never actually bought a set of chains...

Seems plenty or old truck/passenger car sets are free for the taking... must have 40 sets downstairs and all were free.

When I needed some for the tractor I just made up a set by combining two sets from a Ford F250...

Of course width on the larger sizes could be a problem... so far not for my SCUT

Green Acres Homestead · Jan 5, 2016

I adjusted my chains with success. In summary, the tensioner spacing and tension on the tensioner was consistently 2 to 5 lbs of pressure. Consistency I believe is the key.

For those who like to read more:
Inside fastener was put tight and adjusted so that the chain would be in placed if tensioned down strongly from the outside. No change here.

The outside fasteners was put snug but not supper tight.

The tensioners were adjusted with consistent spacing and consistent tension which was about 2 to 5 lbs. The tensioner spacing at the chain was not more than 20 inches apart. The more consistent for both spacing and tension the better.

To describe how tight the chain was put on, I could lift the tensioners with one hand and inch the chain into position on top of the tire with the other hand. Yesterday I drove up steep driveways and drove about 15 km on the road. The chains stayed in place. 2 to 5 lbs of pressure it not much tension but I have lighter chains for compact tractors. The heavier the chain the more zcenrafugicial and gripping force thus more pressure may be required. Hope this helps somebody else.

P.S. My attempt to post a picture was ill-fated. It seems the technology is as finicky as putting on a set a chains. I will try to repost a pictures later.

powerscol · Jan 10, 2016

Well good news, at least for the front. I've measured my front tires 3, even off the ground using cardboard templates to get the correct width and diameter and measured the local stock that is supposed to fit.....NOT! What I am finding from Peerless, NAPA. Hog Boss, and others, that the size for my tires are actually a combo size and usually are too wide 16" for my tire and stay out of the steering knuckle.

Joe Casper, Snow Tire Chains from the Largest Tire Chain Wholesaler in North America | , took the time to actually measure up his stock and found these; Product Search | Snow Tire Chains from the Largest Tire Chain Wholesaler in North America These are 13" wide and the correct length with a bit to spare and designed for tires like mine. Now I can at least turn while pushing the snow.

He also gave me a great price on a long handle chain tool.

Will be ordering Monday

PS - if your nice you can get possibly get a good guy price from them too. Also still working on a fit for the rears without using spacers.

powerscol · Jan 12, 2016

Everything is ordered, including a cool spider bungee tension set up. When they are on the front I will post a few pictures. They are awaiting the materials to fabricate the narrower set for the rears. More later.

powerscol · Jan 14, 2016

Wow 4 days including the order day to delivery today. These are HD chains, not the light weight stuff tirechain folks have for garden tractors which is where a lot of folks have our tire size. Twice the weight of the ATV stuff I looked at too. I will install Saturday and post pictures. Also got some cool tensioners. Again give Joe a call if your curious. More later

RedNeckRacin · Jan 15, 2016

Pictures!

Foxl3830 · Jan 16, 2016

I don't here many people talking about doulble o ring chains. I've had little experience with ladder style chains did not do well on ice not very aggressive. I have R4 tires rears loaded size is 17.5L on rear I love them but when snow got packed and turned to ice I spun and slid even in 4wd it was fun but one slide and you can tear stuff up. So I listed to a older gentlemen who put me on to doulble o ring chains man do they bite in I'm not sure if you want to use them on concrete and pavement ? I live on a gravel drive and a gravel road they say nothing goes on ice these will I currently do not have any chains on the front I'm thinking about putting on ladder style on front not to dig just to steer a little better thanks just my two cents had mine built by a skidder dealer here in western pa thanks.

arrow · Jan 17, 2016

Foxl3830 said:
I don't here many people talking about doulble o ring chains. I've had little experience with ladder style chains did not do well on ice not very aggressive. I have R4 tires rears loaded size is 17.5L on rear I love them but when snow got packed and turned to ice I spun and slid even in 4wd it was fun but one slide and you can tear stuff up. So I listed to a older gentlemen who put me on to doulble o ring chains man do they bite in I'm not sure if you want to use them on concrete and pavement ? I live on a gravel drive and a gravel road they say nothing goes on ice these will I currently do not have any chains on the front I'm thinking about putting on ladder style on front not to dig just to steer a little better thanks just my two cents had mine built by a skidder dealer here in western pa thanks.

My experience is 180* of yours. I tried double ring and slid sideways all of the time. I replaced them with 4 link ladders and got much better lateral traction. Mine were with ags. There are many opposing experiences with chains as details often go unattended. Tire type and size, weighting, tread design, air pressure, driving methods, loose fitted, tight fitted, placed on fronts, placed on rears and terrain to name a few. One truism (or seemingly so) is that any chain is better than no chain as has been stated here several times.

Perhaps the best move is to study all the posts and try and match circumstances with someone else of like usage who has had success with a particular chain type.

powerscol · Jan 17, 2016

That's one reason I went with the H pattern for the front. I have used ladder chains on my oversize garden tractor for years and found when the front tire rotated to be just between the cross chains it went sideways a bit while plowing. Some sets were 2 link that did better, but they only lasted a couple of years on average. The ones I just received are probably 4 times as heavy as what I had been using. I hope to get mine on today and will post pictures.