Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,361  
Most of my wood gets covered with a sheet of old metal roofing. That helps but I wish I had a nice big wood shed. This is where I store mine. It’s an older picture when I was building a short retaining wall but the same setup with old metal roofing covering most of the stacks now. I started writing the dates on the stacks with a paint marker. Originally I just wrote the year on it and I realized that wasn’t good enough and started adding the month also. What I’m burning now I just wrote the year. 2022 so it could be 2 years old or 3 years.
View attachment 1931276
Storing firewood outside is absolutely horrible, where I am in upstate Western NY. We usually get lots of fall and spring rain, and frequent winter lake effect snow. I went about (3) years without inside storage, and that taught me that it’s not worth burning firewood, if I got to store it outside.

Before that, I had a couple old timber framed barns that my great great grandfather had built in the late 1800’s. They worked great for drying and storing firewood.

Unfortunately, they were built on too low of ground without proper drainage and the roofs and foundations failed at the same time, making it cost prohibitive to save them.

I had to store my firewood outside in the years when I was dismantling them, raising the grade, and building a new pole barn. I completed a 24 face cord capacity (4 years worth for us) woodshed on the back of the new barn a couple years ago, and now all is well again.

Without the woodshed, stacking and storing wood was my least favorite part of the operation. Now that’s my favorite part. I can’t wait for the weekend before Christmas when I’m going to split up and fill that open end.

Like WD, I also use the first in first out method. If there’s any oak in the mix, it will have at least 3 years of covered storage before burning. It’s been about 90 percent ash for me for the last 15 years though, courtesy of EAB.

My favorite wood to burn is cherry. There’s a lot of that in my parents 50 acres of woods and I pounce on every one that falls.
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,362  
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,363  
What would be your pound for pound best wood if you rated the following on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the best?

1. BTUs
2. Dry time (shortest time length would get a score of 10)
3. Ease of splitting
4. Burn time

Beech?
ton for ton, all wood has about the same BTU content. Soft wood (conifers a bit better)

Ash can be burnt with nearly no drying time.
Ash and the western tall woods split just looking at them

Burn time? Oak is good, mostly because there seems to be a lot of it in the US of A.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,364  
With that clean carpet in front you must not burn much wood or be really **** about cleaning up. Lol.
That fireplace and carpet has been there for about 15 years, a bit longer. There are a couple of burn spots but it’s not bad. We have a battery Dyson vacuum that I can vacuum up the crap in about 1 minute.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,365  
As far as storing wood outside I’m sure it’s better enclosed but I don’t burn a lot of wood, about 1 to 2 cords a year. I live in Western Illinois and we get humid days but I think there is enough dry sunny days and some low humidity days in the fall it dries pretty good.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,366  
What would be your pound for pound best wood if you rated the following on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the best?

1. BTUs
2. Dry time (shortest time length would get a score of 10)
3. Ease of splitting
4. Burn time
Oh man, did you ever open a can of worms! Why not ask "Deere vs. Kubota"? :ROFLMAO:

I think personal circumstances and local conditions will sway opinions in a big way, but of the things I get frequently enough to have any real opinion, white oak has to be the top contender. In choosing that, I'm focusing almost entirely on BTU's and burn time, as dry time and ease of splitting are irrelevant to my operation.

A few here have knocked Ash, and I suspect that's mostly because the EAB-killed ash has been more problematic. In terms of the four categories you name, ash ranks pretty well on all of them, particularly for dry time (1 summer!) and ease of splitting. It also has reasonable BTU's and burn time, assuming it's not punk/rotten.

Curious. I've never had a chance to burn beech, at least in any quantity large enough to remember. The species I will intentionally harvest here are:

Oak, Red
Oak, White
Ash
Elm
Hard Maple
Sassafras

Trees that I wouldn't bother hauling home, but will burn if they fall in my own yard:

Black Walnut
Silver Maple
Sycamore
Doug Fir

Trees that we have, but don't deserve any space in my wood shed, even if they fall in my own yard:

Pine
Hemlock
Poplar

Everyone's bar will be different. Those north and west of here are thrilled to get Doug Fir, and will never see any oak large enough to burn.

I frequent another website dedicated to wood burning and everyone there insists Oak needs 3 years. I guess in the right conditions you can get away with 2 years but has to be perfect conditions.
Agreed. And white oak seems to take even longer than red oak, probably due to the water-resistant nature of white oak grain, versus the straw-like nature of red oak grain.

ton for ton, all wood has about the same BTU content. Soft wood (conifers a bit better)
Agreed. But my shed space and stove loading space are both limited by volume, not weight!
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,367  
As far as storing wood outside I’m sure it’s better enclosed but I don’t burn a lot of wood, about 1 to 2 cords a year. I live in Western Illinois and we get humid days but I think there is enough dry sunny days and some low humidity days in the fall it dries pretty good.
Before I had sheds, and was doing most of my wood drying out in the open, I'd just cover a given year's requirement in August or September of the year it was to be burned. The equilibrium moisture content of all firewood in the open bottoms out in summer, and then increases again in autumn, and getting it covered before the rain and snow hit in fall is a good way of being sure it'll be good for burning in December/January.

I didn't bother covering all of my stacks, only what I'd be using that winter. The rest could stay uncovered.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,368  
I pay $1800 for 20 loggers cords of oak/maple. I get about 17 cords of firewood from that. Call it $110 for value of wood in a cord. I burn 5-6 cords a year. $600 a year for good hardwood delivered to my place.

For my needs the only way I would burn a less desirable wood is if it was free. I do not harvest or scrounge wood anymore because the effort is not worth the savings.

This year I sold 25 cords. After expenses, I net over $100/cord. It takes about three hours to produce a cord working alone. With the set up I have, I do not handle splits for customer orders. The processor runs splits into the bed of the dump body on the F250 for delivery, or into log bags for storage.

I have been using modified IBC totes that hold just under half a cord for my use. They provide weather protection with the downside of taking 45 minutes to stack them. I have 24 totes to give a two year supply. Seriously considering going to log bags. Preliminary testing has been good. The downside is more space as each bag only holds one cord and lack of weather protection. But wood in bags dries 50% faster.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,369  
Oh man, did you ever open a can of worms! Why not ask "Deere vs. Kubota"? :ROFLMAO:
{snip}

Agreed. But my shed space and stove loading space are both limited by volume, not weight!
the survey asked "per pound". ;-)
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,370  
Oh man, did you ever open a can of worms! Why not ask "Deere vs. Kubota"? :ROFLMAO:

I think personal circumstances and local conditions will sway opinions in a big way, but of the things I get frequently enough to have any real opinion, white oak has to be the top contender. In choosing that, I'm focusing almost entirely on BTU's and burn time, as dry time and ease of splitting are irrelevant to my operation.

A few here have knocked Ash, and I suspect that's mostly because the EAB-killed ash has been more problematic. In terms of the four categories you name, ash ranks pretty well on all of them, particularly for dry time (1 summer!) and ease of splitting. It also has reasonable BTU's and burn time, assuming it's not punk/rotten.


Curious. I've never had a chance to burn beech, at least in any quantity large enough to remember. The species I will intentionally harvest here are:

Oak, Red
Oak, White
Ash
Elm
Hard Maple
Sassafras

Trees that I wouldn't bother hauling home, but will burn if they fall in my own yard:

Black Walnut
Silver Maple
Sycamore
Doug Fir

Trees that we have, but don't deserve any space in my wood shed, even if they fall in my own yard:

Pine
Hemlock
Poplar

Everyone's bar will be different. Those north and west of here are thrilled to get Doug Fir, and will never see any oak large enough to burn.


Agreed. And white oak seems to take even longer than red oak, probably due to the water-resistant nature of white oak grain, versus the straw-like nature of red oak grain.


Agreed. But my shed space and stove loading space are both limited by volume, not weight!
Deer vs. Kubota, too funny!

I would agree if you get 3 years out and stay on a 3 year rotation the oak species would be #1. I acquired some beech over a year ago now and man it is very nice wood to split. Splits as nice as ash. Looking forward to burning it next season. I have quite some ash trees on my property succumbing to EAB so those will be coming down and will be a primary source in the Blaze King for a while.

I also have a lot of poplar which is used in the maple syrup evaporator. Does just fine there!
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,371  
American Beech is one of my favorites. It packs a lot of BTUs (a bit higher than Red Oak, similar to Sugar Maple, not qite as high as White Oak). It's also easy drying: second only to Ash as far as how little excess moisture it holds when freshly cut.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,373  
I want the most BTU per cord of wood. How much it weighs does not matter because I have no constraints on how much weight I can move or store. I am limited by volume...number of cords.

This is what I found. Numbers are millions of BTU's per cord.
Ash 20
Birch 20
Beech 28
Maple 24
Red Oak 25
Poplar 16
White Pine 14

Other factors like drying time, processing effort, ease of procurement, cost, amount of ash, and rate/duration of burn are considerations. For me, maple and oak are the best choices.

One size does not fit all. What makes sense for me is not likely to be the best choice for you.

In my business, many people I sell to are cost driven. One of my competitors sells ash for $75/face cord ($225/cord). I could charge $85/FC ($255/cord) and offer better value. 14% higher price for 25% more BTUs but many people buy on price. So, I charge $225 as that is what the market price is.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,374  
I want the most BTU per cord of wood. How much it weighs does not matter because I have no constraints on how much weight I can move or store. I am limited by volume...number of cords.

This is what I found. Numbers are millions of BTU's per cord.
Ash 20
Birch 20
Beech 28
Maple 24
Red Oak 25
Poplar 16
White Pine 14

Other factors like drying time, processing effort, ease of procurement, cost, amount of ash, and rate/duration of burn are considerations. For me, maple and oak are the best choices.

One size does not fit all. What makes sense for me is not likely to be the best choice for you.

In my business, many people I sell to are cost driven. One of my competitors sells ash for $75/face cord ($225/cord). I could charge $85/FC ($255/cord) and offer better value. 14% higher price for 25% more BTUs but many people buy on price. So, I charge $225 as that is what the market price is.
I think my "pound for pound" was misinterpreted. It was like asking who is the best pound for pound boxer. Weight of the wood didn't even cross my mind.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,375  
I think my "pound for pound" was misinterpreted. It was like asking who is the best pound for pound boxer. Weight of the wood didn't even cross my mind.
coal or wheat straw?

how to measure?
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,376  
I think my "pound for pound" was misinterpreted. It was like asking who is the best pound for pound boxer. Weight of the wood didn't even cross my mind.
You are correct. I misinterpreted what you meant by "pound for pound".

For the right price I will burn any wood. IMO most people on this thread take that approach. If they have dead trees and blowdowns to deal with, they either make burn piles or turn it into firewood even if it is not their ideal firewood. Hard to beat "free".
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,377  
You are correct. I misinterpreted what you meant by "pound for pound".

For the right price I will burn any wood. IMO most people on this thread take that approach. If they have dead trees and blowdowns to deal with, they either make burn piles or turn it into firewood even if it is not their ideal firewood. Hard to beat "free".
I burn a lot of hemlock. It just falls down and gets in the way. I've got a couple of 100 footers out front that NEED to come down safely. I'll get a couple of saw logs out of each, and the rest will find it's way into the fire box.

Great for spring mornings and fall evenings...
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,379  
I burn a lot of hemlock. It just falls down and gets in the way. I've got a couple of 100 footers out front that NEED to come down safely. I'll get a couple of saw logs out of each, and the rest will find it's way into the fire box.

Great for spring mornings and fall evenings...
The best kind of wood is what's in your back yard. I like to use a little hemlock when I come home at night, as quick heat between kindling and hardwood. It's also nice in spring and fall to take the morning chill and dampness, without cooking yourself out of the house.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,380  
I was deer hunting in a tree stand about 10 ft up a big poplar in a hedgerow on Friday and there was a dead ash leaning against it. I tried rocking it down from up there but it was too tangled on the upper branches. I
IMG_5847.jpeg
was watching for widowmakers the whole time I was rocking it.

I went back today with a snatch block, some hemp roap, my MS 280 with 20” bar (the tree looked about 18” at the base), and a few short chains.
IMG_5846.jpeg

IMG_5842.jpeg

It pulled down very easily with my tractor. The only glitch was I ran out of gas with the saw (blade was much duller than I remembered), so I had to make another trip back there with my sharp smaller saw (42 cc Poulan pro with 14” bar and razor sharp blade).

No big deal as it would have been a real heavy load to squeeze all the chunks in one bucketload only. The wood all looked very solid and well seasoned. I put the smaller stuff up on the porch and it will get burned in the next few days.

I stacked the big stuff in my splitter shed to work on before Christmas, when we get a week off of deer hunting.
 

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