Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[TIMMYDUCK]

Another week, another tree harvested.

At this rate I should finish clearing the land in another 5 years or so .

 

[Hoobie]

When you are winching a leaner with your tractor winch like that, could you please help me understand more about the winch process?

I'm assuming that your winch uses a mechanical clutch? Are you able to apply tension and then lock the winch into position? Then apply more tension and lock into place again? Or do you have to start your pull and keep going until the tree is down? Are you able to feel the increase in tension similar to a hand winch?

Gordon's advice is bang on. I might add not to put too much tension on the back leaner tree as this risks a barber chair.
And don't ask how I know this.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I made three trips to the log yard today. That will be it until after mud season. Roads are deteriorating fast this week. Here I'm ready to leave after dumping my second load which is the pile behind my truck.

EDIT: The semi in the back ground is being loaded so that is out going wood.

gg

 

[arrow]

Gordon's advice is bang on. I might add not to put too much tension on the back leaner tree as this risks a barber chair.
And don't ask how I know this.

This is where a strap cut comes in handy.

 

[Grjfer]

White oak I took down at the neighbors across the street.

 

[hunt4570]

White oak I took down at the neighbors across the street.View attachment 789977View attachment 789983

Hey, tell me about that little tool box on your ROPS.. maybe even a link please.

 

[finallydribben]

Hey, tell me about that little tool box on your ROPS.. maybe even a link please.

It looks like a Kioti toolbox to me. My CK4010SE came with one just like that.

 

[Skeans1]

Good question 2manyrocks. OK the basic winch operation goes like this. There is a clutch controlled by a rope. Normally disengaged and engaged by pulling the rope. Releasing the rope disengages the clutch. There is a pawl brake controlled by a second rope. If you pull the brake rope while there is tension in the cable the brake will hold when you release the clutch rope. You can then release the brake rope and the brake will still hold. When you pull the clutch rope again to winch in more cable the pawl brake will release.

View attachment 789548

The white rope on the left is connected to the clutch lever. The blue rope on the right is connected to the pawl brake lever.

So what I do in the back leaner situation is- after I have the snatch block and cable all set up I pull the clutch rope and start pulling in cable. The cable rises off the ground and starts putting tension on the tree. When I see the top of the tree just start to move I pull on the brake rope and then release the clutch rope. This applies the brake and the winching ceases. I go out to the tree and make my notch cut and back cut leaving a strong hinge and watching that the tree doesn't set back on the bar from lack of enough tension or start to fall forward on it's own due to too much tension. When the cuts are done I go back to the tractor and pull on the clutch rope to pull the tree over. This releases the brake. I release the clutch rope when the tree is falling in the desired direction which leaves the cable slack so it won't interfere with the falling tree. Hope the helps

gg

When we’ve done line pulls on hard back leaners think about 20 to 30 ft back lean on the top we’re pretensioning the line before any cuts are put in. As you’re putting in your face I use a wedge with just the very tip in at a slight downward angle as an indicator for what’s happening just like I do when I’m jacking or even in a back cut. If that wedge starts to stand you know your top is heading out, now if that wedge sits out farther you know it’s time for more tension or a bigger machine. As far as faces go I’ve done both well pulling hard and personally I prefer a humboldt just to keep that butt away from yourself if something happens. Back cuts don’t bore out something like this you need to feel what’s happening and when conventional back cuts well chasing vs boring them and back strapping.

 

[arrow]

When we’ve done line pulls on hard back leaners think about 20 to 30 ft back lean on the top we’re pretensioning the line before any cuts are put in. As you’re putting in your face I use a wedge with just the very tip in at a slight downward angle as an indicator for what’s happening just like I do when I’m jacking or even in a back cut. If that wedge starts to stand you know your top is heading out, now if that wedge sits out farther you know it’s time for more tension or a bigger machine. As far as faces go I’ve done both well pulling hard and personally I prefer a humboldt just to keep that butt away from yourself if something happens. Back cuts don’t bore out something like this you need to feel what’s happening and when conventional back cuts well chasing vs boring them and back strapping.

You're dealing with a different situation entirely.
We never did hard pulls or any pulls on a 20' or 30' out leaner. That was cherry picker time.
We dealt with 40-60' oaks and maples that may have been 5-8' out as opposed to 140' firs you may be dealing with.
No problem with strap cuts on larger hinges in that situation.

 

[Loaderman22]

Stumbled across this video today, thought it was fun to watch, however I skipped to about 4:30 when he actually starts sawing. I have zero patience for videos where they go on & on talking about what they're going to do in the video, all that can be said in 30 seconds, and then just do it!