Trade MF1547 for MF1749?

[stormcom]

The 1950 is a Shibaura engine and is from the Iseki line and some New Holland.

Here is what I know on the hydraulics.
They changed the hyd. couplers to stand English (British thread) couplers. They have a Tech on the couplers. Trans oil broke down pulling a 8 ft. mower. Had Massey rep out many many times. Specs on oil had a very low flash point. Went to the Chevron and have not had any oil issues and loader is a whole lot better.

Agco must have listened because new oil is semi syn. Dealer said they have had a lot less problems. I am sticking with Chevron. Have 40 hrs on oil and still like new. sending sample out next week.

 

[Hilbilly]

Below is a thread I remembered on loader QCs not being fully engaged causing weak loader. Hilbilly - hope this is your problem. At least, worth a try.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-malfunctioning-6.html?highlight=#post5109599

Thanks for that link.

Assuming their trade in offer is acceptable, it would be awesome if the fix was that simple. Based on the noise I'm hearing, I think that could be it.

 

[Hilbilly]

The 1950 is a Shibaura engine and is from the Iseki line and some New Holland.

Here is what I know on the hydraulics.
They changed the hyd. couplers to stand English (British thread) couplers. They have a Tech on the couplers. Trans oil broke down pulling a 8 ft. mower. Had Massey rep out many many times. Specs on oil had a very low flash point. Went to the Chevron and have not had any oil issues and loader is a whole lot better.

Agco must have listened because new oil is semi syn. Dealer said they have had a lot less problems. I am sticking with Chevron. Have 40 hrs on oil and still like new. sending sample out next week.

Thanks Stormcom.

Do you know if the coupler change is as simple as unscrewing the old ones and installing new ones. Something I could easily do, or do hydraulic steel lines need to be replaced too. I would think it would be a simple fix ...... maybe requiring a thread adapter, plus the new QC's of course.

At the local dealer, the dino Massey fluid is $120 for 5 gals and the semi synthetic Massey fluid is $240. Don't know how much the Chevron would be in CAD$ and don't know if it is available around here but it sounds like a good investment. I'm going to call the Massey dealer and see if he can find the Tech and if he will email a copy. Plus let me know if this change over would be at my cost or Massey's ..... pretty sure I know the answer to that one.

 

[stormcom]

the new connectors lessened the hissing. if the oil is broke down, sounds like a snake. you can call me just about anytime.

 

[stormcom]

yes. the couplers are male and female. I had one person tell me they cured the problem with the 135 loader and it had better fittings.

chevron is 125.00 to 165.00 us. Stay away from Kubota because it does not have the right additives.

 

[Hilbilly]

After talking to Onionfmr and Stormcom by phone (thank you both for being so helpful) I have decided to get the 1749 and am heading into the big City tomorrow to take in my 1547 and pick up the 1749.

It's been snowing for a couple of days and I can't wait to get home tomorrow with the new tractor and plow snow in a HEATED CAB.:cool2:

 

[Gofast]

Congrats on the new tractor!

We will want pictures.

 

[Hilbilly]

It was a long day with a few issues but I ended up getting the tractor and brought it home. Pics will come tomorrow.

Initial impression is; I love some things about it, I really like some things and there is one that I don't like. I used it to plow the areas around the house, shop, equipment building and the firewood building. I used the rear blade to plow and the front bucket to pick up the windrow that was produced, then shuttle the snow to a few piles. Absolutely loved HST for this. I love being able to adjust the tractor forward speed on the fly, without having to change gears and then to ease into the pile and stop to dump, without clutching or hitting the shuttle shift. Also loved being in a nice heated cab. I also used it later tonight to plow the driveway. I't a mile long, with a flat section on top and then about 3/4 mile of around 10% and the bottom section of a few hundred feet at around 15%. It was awesome having all the lights on the cab so I could see over the bucket and I could see the blade in operation too. Going down was fine and I ran the 10% and 15% section in high range and that worked fine but I could tell there was less power than the 1547. What I don't like showed up on my return trip UP the driveway. This tractor is gutless compared to the 1547. With the 1547 I could plow uphill (with chains on the front wheels) in high range and 3rd gear, sometimes I would have to shift to second if the plow built up with a bunch of snow. That was with a 96" wide plow that is 24" high. With this tractor, using an 84" rear blade that's about 14" high, it struggled to go up in turtle. I set the engine speed to 2500 rpm and used the HST pedal to control forward speed. I realize that with HST you need to back off on the pedal when the tractor forward speed slows down, which I did, but even so it was slow going. Top speed of around 10 kmh. I doubt this tractor will push my 96" plow up hill in turtle. But I won't know until I can get a method for operating the swing cylinder on the plow. With my old tractor I installed a diverter valve for that purpose and I will likely do the same with this one. However I might just try running some hoses from the rear remote to operate the plow cylinder. If I have to plow uphill in snail mode it will take forever to get the job done and I won't be a happy camper. If my driveway was relatively flat this would be a perfect tractor. But if this turns out the way I think it will, I will either have to develop a different method of plowing or consider other options. I sure didn't expect a 49 hp tractor to have less power than a 47 hp one.

So far I've only plowed the driveway once with only a small amount of snow on it. I will need more seat time to really get a sense of whether this is going to be a problem or not and I will need to try it with the bigger plow.

I'll update this as I gain more experience with the new tractor.

 

[redman135]

Hillbilly, the reason you have a "gutless" tractor is because you have a hydro (hst) gearbox which absorbs more power than the shuttle gearbox you are used to. The effect is you have LESS nett hp avalible in spite of a slightly higher gross hp.

 

[Hilbilly]

Here's some pics;


Today I spent some more time playing with the tractor, to get a better feel for what it can and can't do and for me to learn to operate it better. This thing is AWESOME!!!:cool2:

For 99% of what I do this is ideal. I tried using the big plow (just not able to tilt the blade) and it worked well on the flats and the downhill run. I ran the tractor in turtle this time and the speed was ideal. On the uphill trip (in turtle) I found the tractor was ok for most of the areas but slowed quite a bit in the steeper sections but I can live with it because it does everything else I have tried, as well or much better than the 1547. The cab and the HST are a huge improvement. It was -16C and I was plowing snow in a shirt with no jacket on. Even had to turn the heat off for a bit.

If I had a chance to do it over I would buy the same tractor (HST and cab) but with a 58hp engine.

Overall I am very happy.

 

[Hilbilly]

In post #28 I mentioned there were some issues with picking up the new tractor and thought I would elaborate.

After digging out the trailer that was buried in snow in a field out back and shoveling 2 feet of snow off the deck, I loaded the old tractor up and headed into town at 7am. I stopped at the Massey dealer to ask some questions about a few concerns I had about the new tractor and when I got out of the truck I noticed the canopy on the old tractor was laying on the steering wheel. Great! I'm taking this to trade in and the canopy breaks off. Broken bolts, but they are welded on. Easy fix if I was at home.

Anyways I talk to the Massey service manager about the sticking loader joystick on the new tractor and he finds a service bulletin that states the fix is to adjust the cable and if that doesn't work, the valve needs to be replaced. Cost of valve is $2,200. Adding labor and taxes the fix would easily exceed $3,000. With this new info and my broken canopy mount I head over to the Kubota dealer, where the new tractor is. Tell the salesman whats going on and he says not to worry about the valve, I should just live it. It's not a big deal. I tell him it's deal breaker. I'm not spending $3,000 to fix a tractor I haven't bought yet. Now the sales manager gets involved.

I spent the whole day there while they checked it out, found it was the valve and not the cable. Then they did some searching to figure out what their cost would be to fix it and then to finally agree to do the fix at their cost ($2500). I took the new tractor and the old canopy home. I will have to haul the tractor back when the parts arrive and will take the repaired canopy with me.

Sure not the day I was expecting. But it ended well.

 

[MaineGuy1]

In post #28 I mentioned there were some issues with picking up the new tractor and thought I would elaborate.

After digging out the trailer that was buried in snow in a field out back and shoveling 2 feet of snow off the deck, I loaded the old tractor up and headed into town at 7am. I stopped at the Massey dealer to ask some questions about a few concerns I had about the new tractor and when I got out of the truck I noticed the canopy on the old tractor was laying on the steering wheel. Great! I'm taking this to trade in and the canopy breaks off. Broken bolts, but they are welded on. Easy fix if I was at home.

Anyways I talk to the Massey service manager about the sticking loader joystick on the new tractor and he finds a service bulletin that states the fix is to adjust the cable and if that doesn't work, the valve needs to be replaced. Cost of valve is $2,200. Adding labor and taxes the fix would easily exceed $3,000. With this new info and my broken canopy mount I head over to the Kubota dealer, where the new tractor is. Tell the salesman whats going on and he says not to worry about the valve, I should just live it. It's not a big deal. I tell him it's deal breaker. I'm not spending $3,000 to fix a tractor I haven't bought yet. Now the sales manager gets involved.

I spent the whole day there while they checked it out, found it was the valve and not the cable. Then they did some searching to figure out what their cost would be to fix it and then to finally agree to do the fix at their cost ($2500). I took the new tractor and the old canopy home. I will have to haul the tractor back when the parts arrive and will take the repaired canopy with me.

Sure not the day I was expecting. But it ended well.

Do you mean they will fix it and not charge you, or charge you the $2500?

 

[Hilbilly]

Do you mean they will fix it and not charge you, or charge you the $2500?

Reading it again I see that could be read either way.

They are going to eat the cost.

 

[onceacop]

On my 1758 when I changed filters and fluid for the hydraulics the sight glass was over the top using fill capacities exactly listed in manual. I wanted to extend my warranty to 10 years so went with cenex lubricants and their warranty plan. Your tractor is low enough hours that you could enroll also. I use Maxtron full synthetic hyd fluid and that is approved for MF. Very happy with it. I've hit -47F here in northern MN this winter and have 3 feet of snow on the level. -30 nights I've lost count of. I plow with my 1758 using a 96" Bobcat blade. I move a lot of snow. High range I wish was stronger but I do plow lighter snowfalls this way. 6 to 8" requires M range once the blade fills up. Do you have fluid in your tires? I wouldn't manage the work with empty tires. I also do not like R4 tires. R1 for me I need all the traction I can get. Nice tractor I feel you will be happy with it. Don't baby the engine, run good rpms when working it. Change fluids timely and the engine will go the distance. Too many people loaf their engine IMO. I get 2-3 bars on temp when it's-20f and I'm plowing. Plenty of heat. I run winter fuel year around since I only have one tank. I have never gelled and many of my 310 hours are seriously negative O temperatures that only few of us endure. Fuel is critical. I won't chance any summer or bio diesel in my system. My tractor is a lifeline. I live remote and long driveway. It's my only means of plowing.

 

[Hilbilly]

On my 1758 when I changed filters and fluid for the hydraulics the sight glass was over the top using fill capacities exactly listed in manual. I wanted to extend my warranty to 10 years so went with cenex lubricants and their warranty plan. Your tractor is low enough hours that you could enroll also. I use Maxtron full synthetic hyd fluid and that is approved for MF. Very happy with it. I've hit -47F here in northern MN this winter and have 3 feet of snow on the level. -30 nights I've lost count of. I plow with my 1758 using a 96" Bobcat blade. I move a lot of snow. High range I wish was stronger but I do plow lighter snowfalls this way. 6 to 8" requires M range once the blade fills up. Do you have fluid in your tires? I wouldn't manage the work with empty tires. I also do not like R4 tires. R1 for me I need all the traction I can get. Nice tractor I feel you will be happy with it. Don't baby the engine, run good rpms when working it. Change fluids timely and the engine will go the distance. Too many people loaf their engine IMO. I get 2-3 bars on temp when it's-20f and I'm plowing. Plenty of heat. I run winter fuel year around since I only have one tank. I have never gelled and many of my 310 hours are seriously negative O temperatures that only few of us endure. Fuel is critical. I won't chance any summer or bio diesel in my system. My tractor is a lifeline. I live remote and long driveway. It's my only means of plowing.

I checked the Cenex Warranty but it appears the tractor must be no older than 2 years. Mine is a 2015.

There were a bunch of threads about using Chevron synthetic and I found a local supplier at a reasonable price. So I think I will go that route when the next oil change comes up at 300hrs. I have around 200 on it now.

I've got really wide R4 tires and they are filled with calcium. This tractor is essentially the same frame and hp size of the 1547 I traded in but there is a huge weight difference. The 1547 also had calcium but I found the rear end would easily get pushed around when dragging a rear blade. Ended up getting a 96" HLA 2000 for the front and using chains on front tires. The tractor became a tank and would go anywhere. So far I don't have a lot of snow experience with the new tractor and we haven't had any dumps of snow but I have run it up and down the driveway to plow 6" of light snow and really noticed the difference in traction and weight. This tractor with the wider tires and cab is a LOT heavier and even without chains has done great so far. If need be I will put chains on the front tires.

It's been cold here too but only for a week and a bit so far. -30C overnight and when I was going through the tractor testing at the dealer (2 1/2 hrs) it was around -17C. Since then I found the cab would heat up pretty quickly and there would be 2 to 3 bars on the engine heat even in the current -20C temps we are having. Sounding good so far. I've been using the auto throttle advance that allows the tractor to return to idle until the HST pedals are pushed but when working it hard I have been running it at 2500rpm. The owners manual states that the trans works best at 2400rpm and more. My driveway is also long (1 mile) and steep (up to 15%). On the way down I run at 2500rpm in M and on the way up it is working hard at the same settings. In fact it struggles in some areas and the speed drops to about 10kmh from 13 (even slower on the 15% section). The dealer told me the same thing that these tractors need to be worked and problems occur with light usage, for short periods. Also said a lot of people don't follow the regen guidelines. I have read them several times and intend the follow them.

 

[stormcom]

I think the secret is full synthetic. It just works so much better. What color is your synthetic. it may be made by chevron. your dealer should be able to tell you.

 

[onceacop]

Blue and it smells good

 

[Hilbilly]

Yesterday I decided to drain some of the hydraulic fluid from the transmission to see if it was over filled or just above the top of the sight glass. I drained over 1 gal and the sight glass still showed full. Next time I go to the City I'm getting a new filter (already on hold at the dealers) and some Chevron "All Weather" HTF (synthetic I'm told) and I will fill to the 1/2 way point on the sight glass. I can see why people overfill these tractors. I double checked the owners manual and it states that the hydraulic fluid capacity is 38.0 l (10.04 gal) but another member on this forum told me his tractor only holds 8.5 gal when the fluid is up to the mid point on the sight glass and he drains the 2 brake housings as well. Those 2 drain locations are at the lowest point in the hydraulic system and not mentioned in the owners manual, as drain locations. So if you change fluids and don't drain those 2 low points,plus put in the amount of fluid the manual states, there will be way too much fluid in the transmission. In the owners manual for my previous tractor the manual stated that the fluid level should be at the mid point of the sight glass but in this manual it only states that the fluid level should be seen in the window. I can see where this could be taken to mean that you must see fluid in the window, not that the top of the fluid should be seen in the window.

 

[stormcom]

BlueSky PureBlu Hydraulic Oil 46 | 5 Gallon Pail

only info I found on blue colored hydraulic oil. fyi

 

[Hilbilly]

I just got back from the City where I picked up 2 5 gal pails of the Chevron All-weather Synthetic THF and a new hydraulic spin on filter. The oil was only $135 CAD each which is not much more than the Massey dino oil at the dealers.

Got to treat my new love with some goodness so she keeps me happy.