Traded Up!

[VTer]

Hi - Thanks for taking the time to respond. I am coming up the learning curve and gleaning knowledge before putting my money on the table - so I appreciate the info. A couple of more questions, if you please.

Is your rear remote setup the same that would be used for running a loader? Could you attach a picture of your installation?

Also, do think this setup would lend itself to a wood splitter? This is a use I would have.

Thank you.

 

[Casimir]

Brian -- Thanks for giving me an excuse to go play with the new toy --mmmm, I mean tool /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. We got an inch of rain here yesterday, and even though today is beautiful, everything is so wet I can't work.

The Loader is operated by a separate joystick mounted on the front of the fender of the TC33DA. In the attached picture, the FEL joystick is the long lever closest to the camera. The lever closest to the operator's seat raises and lowers the 3-pt hitch. The other two black handles operate the two rear remotes - center one for the toplink and outside one for the sidelink.

 

[Casimir]

On the opposite side (Operator's left side) are the Range Shift lever (Orange), Front and Rear PTO (Yellow) and FWD (Black).

 

[Casimir]

View of the remotes from the rear of the tractor. I have the sidelink off for now -- it would plug in where you see the two blue plugs in the lower right of the picture.

 

[Casimir]

View of the box blade with the toplink retracted (shortened), so the blade will dig.

 

[Casimir]

Final view with the toplink extended, so the rear blade of the box blade will drag -- used for leveling and smoothing everything out.

You also asked about a wood splitter -- it could plug in to either of the remotes. On the TC33DA, you can keep the engine running and operate the hydraulics without being in the operator's seat, if you 1) set the parking brake, and 2) shift the range lever into one of the neutral positions before you leave the operator's seat. I would recommend that you make sure you are on fairly level ground and lower the FEL to help stabilize the rig and keep it from moving.

Good luck with your learning curve. My Dad used to say that "Experience is the best teacher -- especially if it is someone else's experience." /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[dmp437]

When I seen the title

Traded Up!

I thought you meant you traded up to a <font color="green">Deere </font> /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Oh well.

 

[Casimir]

And post it in the NH forum? No way! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I considered them, but my NH dealer had treated me so well on the older tractor, I felt comfortable that I would continue to get excellent service /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. The Deere dealer didn't inspire the same confidence.

(I do own a Gator /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif -- NH doesn't have anything comparable.)

 

[VTer]

Kip - Thanks for spending the time in posting the pics. It is more clear. I called my NH dealer to find out how much it would cost for a factory or dealer install and he was out...need to wait till Monday I guess.

Are you happy with the Class II tractor size? Do you have any regrets not going to the Class III (DC35)? The price delta is not that great.

Brian

Thanks again.

 

[Casimir]

Brian -
For my uses, the Class II tractors are just right. One of my primary requirements is that the tractor be able to fit through my 6' gates. The TC33DA with R4 Industrial tires is 62 inches wide at the widest point. I also have my fences set about 6 feet off the property line, so I have room to get a 60" Bush hog along the outside of the fences to keep the brush from taking them over. I do have to fold the ROPS on the TC33DA to get it through my gates. I didn't have to on the 1520 I had.

You really need to try to make an honest assessment of what you need/want to do with the tractor. Bigger is not always better. If you are finish mowing a lawn, the larger Class III tractor may cause more ruts in the lawn, and won't be as manueverable around obstacles or in the woods. However, if you have plenty of room, and need to take larger bites with the FEL or want to use a larger bushhog, then the larger tractor may be just the ticket for you. I will admit, though, that I got the most horsepower I could get in the Class II, so it would lift heaver loads and not run out of power when box blading.

The TC35DA only has a couple more horsepower, but the heavier chassis and larger wheels, combined with proper gearing, will allow it to move larger loads or finish jobs in less time than the TC33DA.

I don't regret my decision at all, but you need to decide what you need the tractor to do for you.

Good luck again on your search. I know it is tough to decide, and it could be pretty expensive if you decide later that you made a mistake and want to trade up (or down) in size. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif