trailer brake problem?

[vanoverp]

Hello everyone. I have been working on a trailer so I can haul my tractor around. I was successful at adding a brake controller to my chevy truck. All my lights work and to my suprise, the brakes "seem" to work on the trailer. I say seem to work, because I do have a little bit of trouble.

I read up on the controller that I installed, and I adjusted it the best way I knew how, but according to my documentation, I should be able to press the override switch on the controller and send 100 percent stopping power to the trailer brakes, basically making them lock up. You use that as a base setting and then adjust backwards. Well, I have one side that "mostly" will lock up when you apply 100 percent of the trailer brake, but the other side won't lock up unless you are on grass. I know it is working some, but it doesn't appear to be working really well.

I took the hub off and the brake shoes look really good, though I did notice some grease on the shoes and around the inside of the brake. I assume this came from the spindle, which is center lubricating. (Zirc fitting built in)

I adjusted the brakes (from the brake) based on something I read online and that seemed to help a little bit, but I still can't get the one side to lock up like I would expect it to when the trailer is empty.

Is there a way to tell if the magnets are bad?

I appreciate any advice given. Thanks!

Paul

 

[J_J]

Clean the pads, and check /redo the grounds, you may not be putting the full voltage on the brakes.

 

[Bird]

Grease on brake shoes just will not let them work properly and personally, I've not had good luck cleaning them. Any time I get grease on a brake shoe, I replace it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Bird is right, once there is grease on them they are shot. The grease makes them grab. You will need to tear it all down and get new backing plates for your brakes. The backing plates are about the same cost as shoe and now you have everything new. Make sure you clean and repack the bearings along with a new quality double lip seal. Do not use a single lip with easy grease hubs our you will have the same issues.

To adjust the new brakes jack up the side and have a helper spin the wheel by hand while you adjust until they can not turn the wheel. This will center the shoes. Now back off the adjuster until you just feel and hear it grab the high spots. They will wear in in the first few miles. It usually takes about 3-10 clicks back off the adjuster to get it set. If you go more than 10 clicks you have done something wrong. Here are printed directions I give my trailer customers.

ADJUSTING THE BRAKES

* Re-install your tires and rims on the trailer at this time and find the brake adjusting slot at the bottom rear of each brake cluster.

* Remove the plug from the brake adjusting slot and insert a brake adjusting tool or screw driver in the slot and back off on the star nut on the brake adjusting screw inside the brake cluster.

* As you back off on the brake adjusting screw, rotate the wheel and tire slowly forward. Continue to back off the star nut and rotate the wheel until you cannot turn the tire and rim by hand.

* At this point reverse your tool and tighten back in about eight to ten clicks on the star adjusting nut. This will have your brakes adjusted to their optimum set point. As you turn the wheel now you should hear a slight dragging of the shoes the drum.


Chris

 

[JB4310]

What is the over ride switch? on mine there is a manual switch on the controller but it only applies the brakes to what ever the setting is on the controller, not 100% lock up.

Mine do lock up even at fairly low settings when empty sometimes, especially on gravel or grass. I have to back off the setting when empty and increase when loaded, which I think should be expected.

The manual switch is great as you can apply only the trailer brakes to see exactly the amount of assist your getting.

JB.

 

[J_J]

Chris

You maye right, but

If the grease laden brake pad is the one grabbing, why can he not get the other wheels to lock up by applying full voltage. He can test out your theory by unhooking the wheel brakes with the grease on it. Now, which wheel will lock up. Just thinking.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Good point JJ. I believe he is not getting them to lock up because he does not have them fully adjusted. Most folk new to electric brakes make them too lose. The other reason would be a weak old magnet. That is why I suggested new backing plates. They run about $40 each and pads are usually around $40 a set so for just double the money you get everything new.

Chris

 

[vanoverp]

I may have confused a few people, so let me try to explain a few things.

By override switch, I meant the same thing you are talking about, a manual switch. I can press mine part of the way down and get partial voltage sent back to the brakes, or I can press it all the way down, sending 100% of the voltage back to the brakes. When I was testing my brakes, that is how I was doing it, I was pressing this button all the way down to make sure I had good brakes on the trailer. One of the wheels locked up, and the other didn't.

The one that DID NOT lock up was the one with some grease in the hub.

When I adjusted the brakes, I went ahead and did both sides for good measure. I turned the star wheel (on the back of the plate) in the upward direction until I could no longer turn the wheel by hand at all. Then, I backed it off about 6 times on each side. I didn't just guess at that number, I backed it off until I could turn the wheel by hand, but I could still here some rubbing of the shoes against the rotor. Like you said, the high points.

I guess I was wondering how I could know if the magnet was bad? Maybe it is the ground. I will double check that before spending any more money.

If I do end up buying the entire assembly, where do you recommend I buy it?

Thanks so much!

Paul

 

[Bird]

If you were in the Dallas area, I could tell you where to buy what you need, but since I have no idea where you are . . . try to find a Dexter Axle dealer in your area. I used to have a book that told me how to check all the electric brake components, but I don't have it anymore. One thing I'd probably do, though, is get a helper to push the button (or lever) to manually apply the brakes, while I checked the voltage at each wheel. If you have one that isn't being applied as firmly as the others, do you have a wiring problem?

 

[Diamondpilot]

You can buy new magnets but they are about $20 each. Like I said that is half way to a whole new assembly including all springs, magnet, and shoes. I have swapped magnets side to side to see if the problem follows.

Chris

 

[vanoverp]

I will do what Bird suggested and check the voltage at both sides. If I am getting good voltage, I will just replace the assembly.

Thanks so much for all the help!!

Paul

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Based on personal experiences, I'd have to say something like 80% to 90% of trailer electrical issues are ground related. More often than not, ground issues occur where truck meets trailer wiring.... (ie plug(s))

Brakes need to be adjusted correctly as mentioned. Also, once a brake assembly has been "troubled", it will most likely never work as consistantly as those where no problems existed. Magnet and brake shoes get glazed, drums wear unevenly, ect. Sometimes it's best to drop back and punt.....get new components and start off with everything on an equal basis.

 

[JB4310]

I may have confused a few people, so let me try to explain a few things.

By override switch, I meant the same thing you are talking about, a manual switch. I can press mine part of the way down and get partial voltage sent back to the brakes, or I can press it all the way down, sending 100% of the voltage back to the brakes. When I was testing my brakes, that is how I was doing it, I was pressing this button all the way down to make sure I had good brakes on the trailer. One of the wheels locked up, and the other didn't.

Paul

That's not how mine works, not sure if it has anything to do with your problem though.

Does yours have a wheel to adjust controller output? On mine doesn't matter how far I press the manual button it will only apply the braking power set on the dial. Which is how it should be, someone correct me if I'm wrong, that way you can dial in your brake controller for the present load, if it was sending full lock up power all the time the manual button was pressed, I don't think that would be helpful.
Unless of course you had the dial cranked all the way to the max for the test?

JB.

 

[JoelD]

I've had really good luck on ebay buying brake parts, as noted by Chris, you can purchase the entire backing plate set with shoes installed for short money I thinkg I paid about $50 per, for each set.

Joel

 

[vanoverp]

JB, yes I have the adjustment switch on mine. When I was testing, I had it set to send 100 % of the output to the brakes, and then I depressed the manual switch ALL THE WAY DOWN. For all practical purposes, this should have locked up the brakes big time....

paul