Trailer brakes

   / Trailer brakes #1  

prichard

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2015
Messages
1,731
Location
N. Georgia
Tractor
B2601 FEL
I have several questions about brakes. I have an 18' trailer with dual 3500# axles.

The breakaway battery reads 0V. I'll try charging but if I'm reading 0 I'm thinking it is dead. Does that sound right? Looks like replacement battery is around $20 but a new kit is just over $30. I'm thinking of just replacing entirely. Does this seem like a good unit? Pro Series Push to Test Breakaway Kit with Premium Integrated Charger


There are currently only brakes on 1 axle. The second axle has mounts for brakes so I'll add. There seem to be a wide range of prices for brakes, are they all pretty much the same? Any real difference between Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Self-Adjusting - 1" - Left Hand - 3,5 lbs etrailer Trailer Brakes AKEBRK-35L-SA and 1" Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake Assembly for 3.5K Axles - LH Dexter Trailer Brakes 23-468


On the existing brakes, what is a good thickness for the pads? I'd like to know if they are close to needing replacement. Do I really need spring pliers to remove the tension spring?


EDIT:
I forgot to ask about controllers. My truck, '15 Ram 1500 does not have a brake controller. I suppose I could check on OEM Mopar controller but I suspect dealer programming required so $$$$. There are many aftermarket controllers on the market. Any recommendations?
 
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   / Trailer brakes #2  
My trailer needs similar maintenance, thanks for posting. Mine has 4 brakes but when I squeeze the button (empty) only 2 wheels skid.
 
   / Trailer brakes #3  
Controller. Spend the money and get the factory. For us Ford guys it's $160 for the controller and $40 at the dealer to set it up.

Battery. Just replace it. I get them on Amazon or EBay for $10 or so.

Shoes. They last forever but if your replacing get backing plates. That gives you everything for about $50.

Chris
 
   / Trailer brakes #4  
The factory controller is probably best but not all of us have that option. Prodigy is well respected. When I added brakes I found that shopping around I could get Dexter brakes for only a couple of dollars more than others. I like the Dexter name for axle components.
 
   / Trailer brakes #5  
Regarding charging the battery, mine is often dead when I want to use the trailer. My charger won't do anything with it in that state so I hook up an automotive battery in parallel to it on the charger and have successfully charged it several times.
 
   / Trailer brakes
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thank you for the help so far.

So I did get battery to charge with harness connected to the truck. But it last charge very quickly, I'll replace.

Then I got side tracked with wiring issues. I'll rewire tomorrow. Should I use crimps or solder connections?
 
   / Trailer brakes #7  
If you want the connections to last use soldered connections.

Al
 
   / Trailer brakes #8  
Then I got side tracked with wiring issues. I'll rewire tomorrow. Should I use crimps or solder connections?

You may have started a huge argument here. I used to think solder was the way to go. Then I saw some information about solder joints on vehicles actually being failure prone because of fatigue and corrosion. I've had some fail. Now I'm carefully using crimps (disconnects, splices and taps) and I've been having great success with them over the last few years. If you solder, be careful to get a very good seal with tape and support it so it doesn't flex. If you use crimps use the correct size and don't be sloppy. Either way you'll be fine.
 
   / Trailer brakes #9  
My $0.02 - Always use adhesive shrink tube on any connection exposed to the elements, whether you solder or crimp. Tape will eventually let moisture in. Moisture promotes corrosion.
 
   / Trailer brakes #10  
Tape will not prevent moisture getting in, solder creates a "rigid point" in the wire and is prone to brake on edge of solder regular heat shrink will not stop moisture Ive been there many times

Ma Bell has been using scotch locks for years on the phone lines with the jelly in them to exclude the moisture.

If its good enough for Ma Bell its good enough for me, what I use is the 314 series
connector-butt-splice-xxx-3m-scotchlok-314-detail.jpg

megabbs-imagedisplay.php


I haven't had a problem with the connections since I switched to these in the last 10 years.

Note they are not the tap and run blue type so you have to cut wire and put all 3 wires in to make tee.

Tom
 
 
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