Trailer Deck Protection Sikkens or Diesel/oil mix?

[om21braz]

Excellent products, but way too much for a trailer deck IMHO. Now a restored vintage pick-up bed - that would probably be worthwhile.

 

[Bird]

wrooster, it appears that Sikkens only came out with the water based formula last year. It apparently was not available the last time I tried to buy any, and from what I see on the Internet, it's just a little more expensive than the Sherwin Williams. But I would imagine the new Sikkens is a good products. Anyway, since I didn't know they made that one, I appreciate the information.

 

[Gizmo2]

About once per year I apply a diesel/oil mix but your proportions are way off. It's more like 10% diesel and 90% used engine oil. I do it mostly for looks. It is not slippery after it soaks in and/or gets rinsed by the rain.

Also, the drips that occur when applying heavily do not permanently kill the grass.

Recycling at its best.

Been doing this for years, every other year:thumbsup:. Works for me.
I also use the same mixture on the fence about every three years, 24 years and counting.

 

[Gizmo2]

There are about 7 different types of Sikkens products, some made for deck surfaces, some made for vertical surfaces, some made for interior, some made for exterior. At the least you need to make sure you have the right product for your application.

Wrooster

Is that Race Deck on your floors? Whatever it is how do you like it?

 

[wrooster]

Is that Race Deck on your floors? Whatever it is how do you like it?

These are "GarageDeck" tiles from BigFloors.com. They are superb for the money, I have no complaints at all.

GarageDeck Garage Flooring - BigFloors

Wrooster

 

[arsenix2001]

Im in the process of restoring my brimar deckover trailer that has 1 1/2" rough cut oak decking. After 7 years the wood is showing slight rot in some spots but in my research to restore it I read articles saying that saturating (roughcut oak at least) with an oil mixture is a bad thing to do as it softens the wood promoting gouging and water saturating... And increased rot risk. Just passing on what I read as ive left my wood untreated with relative success.

 

[redprospector]

In my experience, about anything that will repell water will work. I generally use motor oil, but I recently replaced the floor in one of my trailers and used Thompson's. It was given to me, so what the heck.
What I do see around here is people who don't bother coating the bottom of the trailer floor. Unless they are parking their trailer when it rains or snows, they are only doing half a job.
I use a pump up garden sprayer to coat my trailer floors. Makes doing the underside a breeze.

Andy

 

[RedNeckRacin]

OK, so I finally got a pic of the gold in a can that I paid an arm and a leg for. Actually I cheated and stole a pic from the internet, but hey it works. :thumbsup:

arsenix2001- Where did you read that? I was thinking about going the oil/diesel route because it was so much cheaper than the $56 a can for the Sikkens product. I was thinking not so much of saturating the wood to where it was dripping as I was going down the road, but more or less to fill the voids in the wood with a water repelling substance vs a sealer that needs to be reapplied every two years.

 

[arsenix2001]

OK, so I finally got a pic of the gold in a can that I paid an arm and a leg for. Actually I cheated and stole a pic from the internet, but hey it works. :thumbsup:

arsenix2001- Where did you read that? I was thinking about going the oil/diesel route because it was so much cheaper than the $56 a can for the Sikkens product. I was thinking not so much of saturating the wood to where it was dripping as I was going down the road, but more or less to fill the voids in the wood with a water repelling substance vs a sealer that needs to be reapplied every two years.

Just did some searching on google. It makes sense, especially if you get too much on. Ive re decked a few planks a couple days ago and looking at the oak boards, they are extremely dense and rot resistant. I would tend to think a sealer/stain that dries would be alot better than oil saturated wood. My unsealed boards have had 7 HARD years of abuse, heavy equipment and gouging, rain, sun allllllll day everyday and only a few boards are showing minor issues. So imo, cough up the dough for a decent sealer, which it sounds like you did and use it, top and bottom. You will probably never have to worry about it again!:thumbsup:

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Doesn't a sealer need to be reapplied every 2-3 years even if its good stuff though?