Trailer for an L3400

[RadarTech]

hi folks,
Well I am thinking about buying a trailer for the 3400..
and I really don't expect to pull it much..
But the coming year may see the construction of another house and I don't think I am going to leave the tractor there....

Looking around I found :
Buy & Sell New & Used Trailers 6 FT 4 IN X 16 UTILITY TRAILER WITH TUBING RAMP GATE at TrailerShopper.com

Buy & Sell New & Used Trailers CarryOn Equipment 7X16 Tandem Axle Black at TrailerShopper.com

pulling truck is a 2010 Tacoma,4x4 LB, automatic with tow package-
Rating is 6500 towing and I have a brake controller...

Should I not consider doing this?

or will a small 15 foot of so trailer be ok?

my L3400 has a loader, with loaded rear tires..
and a "light" boxblade 350 or so...

thoughts???

J

 

[Diamondpilot]

I think you would be fine. Just get a brake controller and a trailer with brakes. Also get whats called a set back jack so you can open your tail gate and spring for a spare tire.

As for the rear gate these are not heavy enough for tractors. They are made for mowers and such so look for a heavier ramp option.

Chris

 

[GATC35]

I don't like 3500 lb axles under equipment trailers. The trailer it self will weight around 2000 lbs., tractor will go 3000 to 4000 lbs. Add FEL and a box blade now tractor is up around 4000 to 5000 lbs. Throw in chains, binders, tools, and fuel and you add 200 to 400 lbs. So before you know it your at your magic number of 7000 lbs. I prefer dual 7000 lb axles just for the safety margin. Yes, they are more expensive but in the long run it will give you some growing room. Also keep in mind your deck lenght. If you ever plan on moving your tractor with a rotary cutter (aka bush hog) attached you will find out real quick how much another 2 feet of deck lenght will be worth. I would go with a 18 + 2 with dual 7000 lb axles (with brakes on both) with flap up ramps.

 

[RadarTech]

5000 lbs for a L3400?
base tractor ~2600 + loader ~700 +box blade ~400 =~3700
+loaded rear ags ~300 = ~4000

Can anyone out there weigh in on these numbers?

I think the 7000 LB axle trailers would be too much for my little Tacoma...


Thanks,
J

 

[GATC35]

I understand where you are coming from and you are wise to consider your towing vehicle. I just wanted to give you some food for thought. Keep in mind you have to add the weight of the trailer in there also. So your 4000 lb number has now jumped to 6000 lbs. Add chains binders, tools, fuel, spare tire, etc and your knocking on the door of 7000 lbs. I tow with a F-250 diesel so a bigger trailer will not effect me as much. Equipment trailers also come with 5200 lb axles, that may be something to consider. I own/operate a landscaping company and I just don't like 3500 lb axles under a tractor or a skid steer. That's my 2 cents worth, maybe others will share their thoughts and opinions.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Anything more than a 7K trailer is just plain overkill for your tractor or truck. I have a 18' tandem axle trailer that weighs just a tad over 1,250# that I just used Friday to go pick up a broken down Chevy 1500 for a neighbor. My trailer has a winch. Anyway I use it all the time to tow my 5,200# tractor with no issues.

As you can see mine is a wide version of the common 18' landscape trailer. Its pictured here behind my 2004 F-250 PSD 4x4. It has ramps, no gate for me.

Chris

 

[RadarTech]

Chris,
If I may..
how much did you pay for that trailer?

Got any pics?

I agree with you on the 7K trailer...

Actually I thought about that one trailer in the earlier link with the weak ramp, and just taking that off and building something there....

Anyway....

GATC35--
Trying to be conservative here and careful.. In the case of attachements, the moves will be few and fairly short-- 30 -40 miles.. I have a small 5x8 trailer now, and I could always take the heavy attachments on it and drop it off and then go get the tractor... More work , more gas, more time, but safety is not always efficient...

I have done some tasks that took 2 or 3 times as long just to avoid some risk that just looked a little bit more than I wanted to stomach..

IE-- instead of driving over rough looking areas, I have spent hours digging and smoothing them just to feel safe than drive that what looks like a minor angle....


thanks for the comments guys...

J

 

[RadarTech]

Chris,
I missed the pic... thanks!

J

 

[careyo63]

I think the 7000 LB axle trailers would be too much for my little Tacoma...


Thanks,
J[/QUOTE]

You still should be just fine.I have a larger Tractor set up about the same weight as yours also that I put on my 7000 LBS.trailer. I can't hardly tell any difference of it being back there than my CUT. It is every bit of 1000 lbs. more. But then again on here it's like asking women the same thing about a men. 90% of the time of course bigger is better. And the honest ones will tell you true but still seems to get the job done

 

[gerard]

For your use I think you're fine with what you're looking at. I use a dual axel 16 foot trailer and it's plenty with just the tractor/loader/implement. I did weld another set of square tube in the ramp where my tires go as the expanded metal was a little light to support the tires of the tractor. (They wound up right in the middle of two supports). The trailer is rated for 7500lbs. Not sure what axels are on it. I've had 8000 lbs on it by mistake once. (Got some stone dust and didn't realize how heavy that stuff was until they scaled me out). That squatted the tires and springs to the point that the fender was just about touching the top of the tire. So now I have an overload guage to go by! One thing to look at is frame and rail construction. I made sure I got a fully boxed frame and rail. Soe of the cheaper ones use angle iron for the rails. Not nearly as strong. Same with the frame. Make sure it has fully boxed square tubing. (I paid $2000 new in 2001)

 

[RadarTech]

I think I am going to hit the local trailer "yards"...
and see what they have and take all these comments as guideance....

maybe I can find a good deal...
already checked craigslist... nothing worthwhile.....


thanks to all...

J

 

[Diamondpilot]

Chris,
If I may..
how much did you pay for that trailer?

Got any pics?

I agree with you on the 7K trailer...

Actually I thought about that one trailer in the earlier link with the weak ramp, and just taking that off and building something there....

Anyway....

GATC35--
Trying to be conservative here and careful.. In the case of attachements, the moves will be few and fairly short-- 30 -40 miles.. I have a small 5x8 trailer now, and I could always take the heavy attachments on it and drop it off and then go get the tractor... More work , more gas, more time, but safety is not always efficient...

I have done some tasks that took 2 or 3 times as long just to avoid some risk that just looked a little bit more than I wanted to stomach..

IE-- instead of driving over rough looking areas, I have spent hours digging and smoothing them just to feel safe than drive that what looks like a minor angle....


thanks for the comments guys...

J

I bought that trailer brand new in 2004 with used tires and no brakes. I paid $680 new from the manufacture. You can not build one for that. I put brakes on one axle the week I got it.. I am in the marine business and buy and sell boats so trailers are part of my business. Today that trailer sells for $1400. By the way the used tires lasted until 2008 when I replaced them with new tires.

I would skip the fold up ramp. Causes lots of drag and I am always hauling something 2' longer than my trailer like the lumber in the picture. Also make sure you get a trailer with what they call a full wrap around tongue. That is where the C-channel that has the ball mount welded on it extends all the way back to the axle area. Cheaper built trailers will only extend to the second stringer under the deck and will bend and crack welds easily.



Chris

 

[GATC35]

Chris,

Just out of curiosity what type ramps would you get? I have 2 equipment trailers, a utility trailer, and a dump trailer. I have every configuration of ramp you can think of, and by far the fold ups are the easiest to use and the most versatile.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Chris,

Just out of curiosity what type ramps would you get? I have 2 equipment trailers, a utility trailer, and a dump trailer. I have every configuration of ramp you can think of, and by far the fold ups are the easiest to use and the most versatile.

My ramps are 5' long and made of 1/4" 2"x2" angle iron. They slide underneath the trailer. They are heavy but I only use the trailer 2-3 times a month so its no big deal.

I thought about stand up ramps but I use my trailer time to time to move all sorts of thing. Even hauled a boat out of water with it. No way I could have done that with any type of rear ramps that were mounted.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

Interesting thread...!!!

I think I have my little Kubota sold. I have been eyeing a L3400 or NH TC35.

I have a 7000lb 16' trailer already. From numbers I have seen, one of the above would easily trailer on my trailer. One caveat though... A rotary mower instantly makes it too long(at least, if the loader is on the trailer).Even my little B series Kubota, with the loader and rotary mower, left the tail wheel of the mower hanging off the trailer...

When you build your house, you'll find the trailer is really handy. I got mine to haul my tractors(used to have a Farmall-A too). I have hauled firewood, lumber, pipe, motorcycles, cars, hay, concrete block, an lots of other stuff.

hi folks,
Well I am thinking about buying a trailer for the 3400..
and I really don't expect to pull it much..
But the coming year may see the construction of another house and I don't think I am going to leave the tractor there....

 

[firefighter jim]

5000 lbs for a L3400?
base tractor ~2600 + loader ~700 +box blade ~400 =~3700
+loaded rear ags ~300 = ~4000

Can anyone out there weigh in on these numbers?

I think the 7000 LB axle trailers would be too much for my little Tacoma...


Thanks,
J

I have that same setup as you. L3400 2600 lbs. loader is 900 lbs (not 700). loaded rear ags 500 lbs. Total is 4,000 lbs. (can't speak for the box blade). I also have a 16 foot landscape type trailer rated at 7k gvw and it is perfect for this tractor. My trailer weighs in at 1800 lbs. Trailer max load is 5200 lbs. leaving 1200 lbs. to spare. You do not need a higher rated trailer. Next trailer size up is 10k gvw which (if fully loaded to that capacity) would far exceed your tow vehicle's towing limit any way. I would strongly suggest purchasing a trailer with brakes and consider a set back tongue jack (allows you to drop the tailgate without doing damage). Also, my next trailer will be an 18 footer as the extra 2 feet would be nice. As you can see, these trailers have a variety of uses! Jim

 

[radioman]

Chris,

Just out of curiosity what type ramps would you get? I have 2 equipment trailers, a utility trailer, and a dump trailer. I have every configuration of ramp you can think of, and by far the fold ups are the easiest to use and the most versatile.

I agree. even if I needed to tow something longer, I just pull the hinge pin to the ramp to remove so its just as versastile like diamond pilot wanted. Had to do that once when picking up 20 ft wooden I joists. The nice thing is that my ramps is split in two so I can leave one on if needed. I do Agree the ramp quite often needs to be beefed up with more metal.

 

[mlauk]

Anything more than a 7K trailer is just plain overkill for your tractor or truck. I have a 18' tandem axle trailer that weighs just a tad over 1,250# that I just used Friday to go pick up a broken down Chevy 1500 for a neighbor. My trailer has a winch. Anyway I use it all the time to tow my 5,200# tractor with no issues.

As you can see mine is a wide version of the common 18' landscape trailer. Its pictured here behind my 2004 F-250 PSD 4x4. It has ramps, no gate for me.

Chris

Have you actually weighed your trailer, it seems very light. Big Tex's lightest duty 16' tandem trailer weighs 1430 pounds and is only rated for 4000 pounds. Most 16 to 18 foot 7000 lb trailers weigh 1800-2200 pounds.

http://www.bigtextrailers.com/pdf/40sp.pdf

 

[Diamondpilot]

Have you actually weighed your trailer, it seems very light. Big Tex's lightest duty 16' tandem trailer weighs 1430 pounds and is only rated for 4000 pounds. Most 16 to 18 foot 7000 lb trailers weigh 1800-2200 pounds.

http://www.bigtextrailers.com/pdf/40sp.pdf

Yes, I had it weighed and my Certificate Of Origin had the weight of 1,210#. That was without the spare, brakes, or ramps which are added on top of the empty weight. I imagine with all that its at the 1,430ish weight.

I added the spare tire mount, winch, and a tool box and then had it weighed at 1250# but that was without the ramps that day.

I have hauled my 5,200# tractor probably 50 times on it with implements also for well over 10,000 miles. It has also hauled about 15 or more cars, a Suburban, and just Friday a 1/2 ton Chevy. Mine is listed as 7,000# GVWR with 5,790# payload on the sticker with the Vin# at the tongue.

Here is where I got it from. Nice folks. We have bought over 10 trailers from them.
http://www.jerryjamestrailersinc.com/


Chris

 

[soarkrebel1]

I have a L3000DT with a FEL. I used to pull the same load with a GMC 1500 Ext cab. It pulled it but it didn't like it.
Hills would kill it and the brakes just were not enough even with trailer brakes.
I went to a GMC 2500 and even without a Dmax it is a world of difference from power to braking.
My trailer is a 20 foot and is worth the extra for the length but you still have to balance the load so you get hang off.
If your Tacoma has V8 I would say try it but make sure you have trailer brakes that work.
Right now I am looking at adding brakes on the other axle just to have a little more. Brakes are the most important thing to me......gotta to be able to stop the load.