trailer for Yanmar

BrettW · Jan 9, 2003

the fact that Maryland has the balls to call itself the "Free State" is one of the bigger jokes I've had forced upon me. It sure ain't free to live here.

mah · Jan 10, 2003

I would go with an angle trailer if built right it would be more than strong enough and lighter than tubing. I have heard that tubing holds moisture inside and will rust out.
In TN, trailer laws are different for businesses versus the general public. So, check with your state's DOT.
Mike

LLove · Jan 10, 2003

What I did was fiqure the total weight of the load, then went looking for a trailer that had twice the amount of payload capacity. Wound up with a dump trailer. The single axle brakes are larger than those on a utililty trailer and works quit well with 2 tons, 1/3 of it's rating, in the trailer. At it's maximum gross the single axle brake setup wouldn't be enough. At work we have been replacing the brake controlers that have to be "adjusted to level", due to various problems. If you go up or down a steep slope / grade, the brake response is wacky. Sometimes too responsive, other times nothing at all. And if someone sitting in the middle bumps the controller when getting in or out, it may throw the adjustment out as well. Not to mention what washboard roads, and crossgutters in the street do. So now we're using name brand controllers that can be mounted in any posistion.
Overkill your minimum requirments on suspension, brakes, and tiedowns. You'll be happy you added the extra safety factor everytime you hit a bump, pothole, or nail the brakes. Lloyd

cpicton1 · Jan 10, 2003

You can buy a good car trailer with a channel iron frame & tongue for a couple hundred $$$ more than a utility trailer. An 18' or 20' tandem axle trailer should pull just as easy as a 16' behind your F150. I have a 16' PJ brand dovetail car hauler with treated lumber deck for my Kubota BX2200. With the loader and rear blade or box blade on I have two feet left. Don't forget that you should make sure your trailer has brakes and you will also need a brake controller for your truck. I use the Tekonsha Prodigy, about $125.00. This model is self leveling so it is very easy to use. You should also have a breakaway kit on your new trailer.

jimstractors · Jan 10, 2003

Brett,
I use a heavy duty car hauler to transport tractors. I have hauled up to two (1702d's) at a time with loaders, tillers, and box scrapers. My axles are rated for 5500lbs each. I have brakes on one axle and it stops fine. I figure the total max weight I've hauled is about 8500 lbs. I use a Ford dually F350 Diesel and still get 13-14 mpg loaded!
Jim
Jim's Tractors

BrettW · Jan 12, 2003

Thanks for all the help. I bought a used 16', 2 axle trailer with brakes and that break away thing. GVW 7000, bw

cpicton1 · Jan 12, 2003

Now that you have the trailer don't forget the binder grade chain and chain binders. Best way to secure a tractor on a trailer. Good luck. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

jimstractors · Jan 13, 2003

Brett,
For tie down chains and binders, check out www.harborfreight.com. When they have a free shipping promo, you can't beat the prices.
Jim

Soundguy · Jan 14, 2003

Great, now go get yourself a good break controller. Expect to pay 100 or so for the unit.

I use an activator II in my trucks, and they are awesome. Controlls for the 'atack speed' of the breaking, and break tension.. plus the usual emergency button.

There are cheaper models without readouts.. but I was kinda shying away from a 49 dollar controller.. considdering I'm pulling 15+ grand behind the truck.

Though, I imagine that any properly working controller is going to give decent performance in this day and age of electronics... Just a comfort issue ...

Soundguy