Trailer Lighting and Storage Mods

[Panik]

Ray were you referring to running a separate ground wire from each light back to the ground coming from the tow vehicle? While I had not planned on doing that I was going to run a 10 ga wire from the trailer plug to the frame and then ground the lights at common point along the frame. I figured doing it in this manner I would not have to rely on a ground connection between the ball and couple for a ground. I was also thinking about hitting all of the frame ground points with liquid electrical tape to help prevent corrosion/rust.

BTW my soldering skills are worse than my diagramming abilities so I have used crimp+heat shrink connectors with shrink tubing over top on all the connections I have made so far.

I can't be the first to think of this, but what would happen if I used heavy duty continuous cycle relays to switch between the marker signal and turn signal powering the clearance led? Something like this:



I guessing that with a regular relay the pulsed signal from the turn wire would very quickly burn out the relay controlling the marker wire. Would a continuous cycle relay overcome this issue and provide a useable life cycle? Also, I am guessing there might be a problem with chatter within relay caused by using the turn wire to control the relay but I am not experienced enough to know one way or another? Any thoughts guys?

 

[aczlan]

Ray were you referring to running a separate ground wire from each light back to the ground coming from the tow vehicle? While I had not planned on doing that I was going to run a 10 ga wire from the trailer plug to the frame and then ground the lights at common point along the frame. I figured doing it in this manner I would not have to rely on a ground connection between the ball and couple for a ground. I was also thinking about hitting all of the frame ground points with liquid electrical tape to help prevent corrosion/rust.

I would run a ground wire and tie everything back to it, You can connect it to the trailer if you want, but I have seen many problems with where the grounds connect to the frame.

BTW my soldering skills are worse than my diagramming abilities so I have used crimp+heat shrink connectors with shrink tubing over top on all the connections I have made so far.

I would get a high quality crimp/shrink kit such as: Forney 54827 Butt Connector, Heat Shrink, 18-20 AWG Crimp And Seal, 25-Pack - Amazon.com along with a real crimper such as: Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper - Amazon.com

I can't be the first to think of this, but what would happen if I used heavy duty continuous cycle relays to switch between the marker signal and turn signal powering the clearance led? Something like this:
View attachment 349763
I guessing that with a regular relay the pulsed signal from the turn wire would very quickly burn out the relay controlling the marker wire. Would a continuous cycle relay overcome this issue and provide a useable life cycle? Also, I am guessing there might be a problem with chatter within relay caused by using the turn wire to control the relay but I am not experienced enough to know one way or another? Any thoughts guys?

IMO, there should be enough cooldown time between uses to let you use a normal relay and even if you are using them a lot, a 30 amp relay running a 10milliamp LED shouldn't arc enough to cause problems. I would wire things as follows:

In the first example:
The turn signal light would turn off each time the turn signal blinks. This would ONLY work if the marker lights were also on. No marker lights = no turn signal.

In the second example:
If the marker lights are off the turn signal light would turn the marker light on each time the turn signal "blinks".
If the marker lights are on, the turn signal light turns off each time the turn signal "blinks".

Aaron Z

 

[94BULLITT]

Hey guys I am sorry for dropping off the radar for a couple of days - life got in the way of project work. We've been getting ready to go on a weeks vacation to Gatlinberg and well packing for three kids is a effort in and of itself.

In anycase thank you for the explanation about dummy loads, it makes a bit more sense to me now. As well thanks for the suggestion about the converter box, it should be a pretty vital piece in what I am trying to accomplish.

Roger the box I ended up buying was a tractor supply chest:

View attachment 349688

I'm planning on mounting it on the front rail of the trailer with most of the area projecting out over the tongue of the trailer - that way I don't have to sacrifice deck area or deal with jack knifing the jeep into it if it was mounted directly to the tongue. While I don't have the ability or tools for welding I am going to have a local guy fabricate a frame and struts so that it is fully supported.

I'm an still researching a solution to the mid marker/turn indicator quandary. Apparently round 2" dual function led's are few and far between. I've found one and I am not real keen on being stuck with only one option down the road if/when something needs replacing. So, without recutting the hole I have already made in the fender it looks like my options are:

1) use a resistor as suggested (most likely)
2) cobble together some form of PWM controller (doubtful)
3) Play around with continuous duty relays/solenoids

I think I might have an idea that might work with relays however I need to sit down with some paper and map out the logic involved.

I did take the time and map out the wiring so that laying under the trailer assembling everything I would have guide to keep me from running off into a different direction than I had originally intended: (numbered boxes correspond to junction boxes. Please excuse any nonstandard notations, I can't even claim to play an electrician or engineer on TV )

View attachment 349690

I keep looking at boxes for my trailer. I am leaning towards this one. Tradesman TAL21TTBBK Black 21" Aluminum Trailer Tongue Box : Amazon.com : Automotive I will have to relocate my jack. Is this the box you got? Tractor Supply Co.® Single Lid Chest Tool Box, Silver, 46 in. L - Tractor Supply Co.

the tail light converter goes in the tow vehicle before the plug. If you wire up your 7 wire plug to industry standard pin locations (which by all means you should) you wont be able to pass thru 3 wires for turn and brake only the 2 combined brake /turns.

you have front facing brakelights in your schematic?

Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com

check the above site for a plug and play adaptor to fit your jeep its much better than hacking up the jeeps factory wireing.

I was thinking he could wire the taillight converter on the trailer, not the tow vehicle to separate the stop lights and turn signals.

Panik, are you just wanting the lights on the back of the fenders to be marker lights and turn signals?

I found this Grote 9076 light but it is not LED and you would need red not amber for the back of the fender.Grote 9076 Torsion Mount II Turn Marker Light 1of2 | eBay

I was also thinking you maybe enlarge your the existing hole and use a light like this. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/STL70RB.html

 

[94BULLITT]

I just found these lights on ebay but they are 3/4''.

Maxxima 3 4" Side Marker CLEARANCE Stop Turn Tail Brake Light LED Red Lens | eBay

You could send them a message to see if they have anything like that in 2''.

Have you checked at your local truck shops and chrome shops or even truck/ trailer dealers?

 

[Panik]

I heartily apologize for not responding sooner. Between traveling with the family, the holidays and internet access issues I haven't really had much of chance to jump on the forums. Aaron thank you very much for the diagram of how to setup the relays. I am definitely going to go that route instead of trying to find a dual function light.

Roger I did see those lights from Grote. Unfortunately, I had already cut the holes for the lights prior to deciding that I would like additional turn indicators. These are actually located on the sides of the fender. To be honest because of the location I am kinda being nit picky about the size and having all the lights match up. Using relays I don't have to worry about sourcing dual function lights that fit my needs.



Also, the box you referenced is the exact box I purchased. If you are looking at it, or Tractor Supply boxes in general be aware that some of the lids don't open as far as you might like. I haven't checked but it may be a function of the piston and easily fixed. I didn't go with a triangular tongue box as I have some plans in the future of changing the jack to a dual jack setup located up against the forward end of the trailer bed. As well I had bit of an idea about adding a winch eventually and however unlikely that might be the tongue box would interfere with those plans. I am likely going to have a frame and struts built and mount the box similar to what is shown in the picture



This way I can avoid the issue of taking up floor space on the trailer and avoid any concerns about the box projecting outside of the tongue framing.


With everything that has been going on I have not had many opportunities to work on this project. I have sourced kiln dried, true 2" rough cut PT SYP for .65/bf from a local mill to replace the 1.5" crude the builders used. I have also redesigned the junction boxes I am using so that I have a bit more space to accommodate a dedicated ground wire instead of using a frame ground.



Currently I am down in Tampa visiting family. There is a Redneck Trailer store in town and hopefully amongst everything else we are doing I will get the chance to swing by and pick up a 2 to 3 way wiring converter while I am down here. If not I'll just order online.

Again thanks for taking the time to read. I hope everyone is have a great holiday season. :thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

Ray were you referring to running a separate ground wire from each light back to the ground coming from the tow vehicle?

Yes. I mean ideally, you should run a ground wire from the plug to each light. And, solder everything.

Crimp shrinks, and chassis grounds will work for a while. Perhaps longer than you need. But, they are not immune to failure. When they do fail, it seems to always be at the worst possible time.

A soldered connection, with brush on liquid electrical tape, or shrinks, will not fail.

Soldering wires is one of the easiest skills to master. A few minutes of practice and your good to go. (a) Make sure it's clean, (b) makes sure it's hot, (c) apply rosin core solder.