trailer plug replacement

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I didn't mention that I have always sealed those screw connections with Vaseline and in the last few years I also spray with Rust Check film. I then thoroughly wrap the whole back end of the plug and the cable with electrical tape. On the big trucks I also covered that with brush-on electrical tape or brush-on contact cement (same stuff at half the price). Fluid film should work.

This has given me an idea. First, I'll try getting just the plug replacement. I'll spray the contact points with something like Battery Saver. I'll then tape over the seam where the wire enters the plug. Over this I'll brush on some of that rubberized tool handle dip and see if it adheres to the tape and plug base. If it works, it may provide a decent weather seal. Thanks to all who contributed in a fruitful manner. It seems when people here do that, one idea leads to another to hopefully solve the problem.

 

[Pete6114]

I always load up the plugs/pins heavily with Dielectric grease which has only one purpose, and that's to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Works well and have never had a corrosion issue.

 

[jaotguy]

x2 on the liquid tape from wally world ... cover everything you can see that is bare ....

 

[pat32rf]

The liquid tape is great stuff but many of my 50 working years were spent as an electrician and trying to keep something dry by taping it up just doesn't work.....Dielectric grease and moving the plug pays off.

 

[pmsmechanic]

The liquid tape is great stuff but many of my 50 working years were spent as an electrician and trying to keep something dry by taping it up just doesn't work.....Dielectric grease and moving the plug pays off.

I'll agree with that statement. Moving the plug into my truck box was the most effective thing I have done to keep the wires from corrosion and gravel burn.

 

[Mace Canute]

I didn't mention that I have always sealed those screw connections with Vaseline and in the last few years I also spray with Rust Check film. I then thoroughly wrap the whole back end of the plug and the cable with electrical tape. On the big trucks I also covered that with brush-on electrical tape or brush-on contact cement (same stuff at half the price). Fluid film should work.

I agree, Rust Check works excellently on trailer plugs. Just a quick application once or twice a year and everything is good what with the creeping agent and water dispersant in it. I prefer it to any grease type barrier because it's so less messy.

 

[pat32rf]

Rust Check also works good in Ontario....Keeps the brass clean and connections good.

 

[pohorsky]

I wonder you could just get a blank plug, and just use that as a cover.

 

[SweBota]

Put the same kind of socket that is on the car on the trailer, they are usually better protected with some lid Then use a short removable coiled cable with a plug in each end for the interconnection, and remove that and store indoors or in the car when not in use. All new trailers use that principle here now. Easy to change, easy to repair. I keep a spare in the car as well.



/Marcus

 

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Put the same kind of socket that is on the car on the trailer, they are usually better protected with some lid Then use a short removable coiled cable with a plug in each end for the interconnection, and remove that and store indoors or in the car when not in use. All new trailers use that principle here now. Easy to change, easy to repair. I keep a spare in the car as well.

View attachment 425905

/Marcus

Good yo know SB and thanks for the info. I "Battery Saver" sprayed the internal connections after I inserted them in the plug terminals with some grease on the twisted wire. I then squeezed some black, flexible gasket maker where the wire goes into the socket. After a month of steady use, it is holding up nicely.