Buying Advice Trailer purchase

[GeneDoc]

I need to buy a trailer for a compact tractor (e.g. B3350) that I hope to buy soon and don't know what length I should consider. I don't know how long the 30hp units are with front end loaders and backhoe's and can't find basic information for those specifications anywhere. All I can find is tractor length without attachments. I know I need to get weight limit tolerance, but I am looking at mainly length suggestions. I found a used dual axle one on sale nearby ($1700), but it's only 14' long. I had been considering a new 20' trailer and have the room to store it, but the price is in the $4500 range. I'd love to save the money and get something cheaper, putting that difference towards add-on s for the tractor.

 

[George2615]

Just the tractor and loader are going to be close to 12' long so a 14' trailer isn't going to cut it for that tractor, loader, and BH.
I know when I was looking for a trailer years ago I never found 20-22' used trailers. 99% I found were 14-18'.
IMO, get the longer trailer. You never know when you may need to loader the tractor with several attachments all at once or occasionally a car or truck.

 

[deezler]

And if you ever have a brush hog on the back.... you'll be closer to 18 feet long in total. Get a long trailer, for sure. 18' or 20' equipment hauler or the like. Where are you located? Near me you can get a 20' 10k equip trailer for $3k new.

 

[fatboycowen]

Most trailers are deck measurement, not overall. But I don't know if this is a standard, so ask.
I have a 15 ft car trailer. 15 ft deck, plus the tongue. I don't know the overall, but it's at least another 3 feet. I trailered my tractor (ct235) with backhoe, and it fit perfectly... Like exactly. The loader bucket extended into the tongue some. And the backhoe bucket was just on the deck. Just the right tongue weight.

However, my trailer has the two axles close to center of the deck, which is unusual. If the axles were further back, the tongue weight would have been way too high.

A friend has the b3030 with backhoe, and an 18 ft deck trailer. His easily fits with room to spare.

So, an 18 ft deck should work fine. They are plentiful.

 

[JB13502]

Speaking from experience, I would go with the bigger trailer and at least 12,000 pounds. 20 feet gives you plenty of room for rear attachments and it makes it easier to tie down the tractor.

You're looking at a B-series now, but if you eventually upgrade to a bigger tractor you'll appreciate not having to get a bigger trailer... Ask me how I know.

 

[GeneDoc]

Thanks everyone. I did find a local dealer that puts 20' at $3.2k for 10,000lbs and $3.6k for 14,000lbs.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I have a 27 hp tractor with loader. It Just fits on a 20' trailer if I have my rotary cutter on. It is a 7000lb trailer. I am right at the limit, but it functions just fine. I paid $2700 for it last year. I think $3200 for a 10,000lb trailer is right in line.
Get flip up ramps instead of slide in due to the weight.

 

[LD1]

I didnt think the B was that much smaller than the economy L's.

I had a L3400 and with a loader and 6' hog, overall length was about 22'.

Sold that tractor to dad and he just bought a AMO 22' trailer 12k rated brand new and I think it was ~$3500.

Bor a B being a little smaller, and likely not a 6' bushhog but rather a 5'....I wouldnt be concerned with dropping to a 20', but that is as small as I'd want. And 20' 7k trailers seem to be plentiful and I dont see you exceeding that weight capacity

 

[Tractor Seabee]

State Patrol Truck enforcement here looks at the combined capacity of the trailer and towing vehicle to determine if a CDL is required of the driver, has nothing to do with the actual load carried; that comes in play when you have a CDL and forced to go through a weigh station. Dual axles are required to have brakes on both. Around here trucks with obvious farm equipment or smaller tractors are largely ignored unless there is something visibility wrong or unsafe. The proverbial tail wagging the dog or uncovered loose cargo will get you pulled over every time observed. A trailer larger than a utility type W/O a manufacturer's load rating tag can get you a ticket, if stopped for inspection. Some manufacturer's under rate their 12-14K trailers to accommodate us non-CDL drivers with less than 12K ratings.

I have a 16' tilt bed trailer with a 4' bobtail; works great for my BX W/FEL and BH plus several other implements. Sometimes I have stuff on the bobtail. Axle placement is critical to planning loads to assure proper tongue weight so pays to have some longitudinal flexibility. For mine; tractor over the axles is perfect. I have pre-planned various implement loads around the tractor so I can place those on with the tractor prior to loading the tractor; even can use the BH to lift loads onto the bobtail. Sometimes I load w/the BH swung to one side to get another implement on. My 50 GL fuel tank always sets on the front corner. Installed extra tie down points for all the options.

With your setup length is your concern not capacity, you will never reach 10K #s.

Happy trailer hunting, Ron

 

[GeneDoc]

Closing out this thread with info in case someone else is in my same boat I was. I ended up getting an L3901 and it is ~13 feet long with my front end loader attached. I found a used trailer with two 7000# axles that looks a little beat up, but was a reasonable price at $1500. So, if anyone else is trying to save money on a used trailer, you can readily put a CUT with FEL on a 16 foot trailer. Yes, the 20 foot trailers are more versatile, especially if I want to put the tractor on the trailer with implements on the 3 point hitch. However, I'll take the savings of $1700+ for getting the used trailer over the extra length for now. Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I have an 18' car trailer. The only time I have any length issues is when I put my 6 ft brush hog mower on the 3pt hitch. Then the mower extends past the back edge of the trailer by ~ 2'. If I had a 20' deck, it would be better, and a 22' would be perfect.



My next trailer will be a 24-28' deck over gooseneck, so I can set a couple of attachments on the trailer and still load the tractor.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Closing out this thread with info in case someone else is in my same boat I was. I ended up getting an L3901 and it is ~13 feet long with my front end loader attached. I found a used trailer with two 7000# axles that looks a little beat up, but was a reasonable price at $1500. So, if anyone else is trying to save money on a used trailer, you can readily put a CUT with FEL on a 16 foot trailer. Yes, the 20 foot trailers are more versatile, especially if I want to put the tractor on the trailer with implements on the 3 point hitch. However, I'll take the savings of $1700+ for getting the used trailer over the extra length for now. Thanks again for everyone's input.

You might consider putting 4 new tires on it. Both used trailers hat flat problems due to age of tires.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Messmaker is right on. When I was looking for used equipment trailers I found many with a mishmash of used truck and car tires, old mismatched rusty rims, and obviously old tires. Remember tire life is determined by calendar age not mileage. Seven years is the maximum life span considered in the industry. I learned a lot on my first trailer loaded use after two blowouts in traffic. Replaced all the tire and rims with 10 ply trailer tires sized to match the trailer loading plate and the axle capacity. Plus one wheel bearing was running hot and rough. I found one of the axles had the brakes removed and the other inoperable. That was more repairs. Lucky I survived my first trip. make sure you check everything. Short of disassembly some oh these things are not visible when buying. Sometimes trying to save money on used backfires when you add up all the cost to put in proper running order.

That is my first trailer experience, Ron

 

[Deere Dude]

Replaced all the tire and rims with 10 ply trailer tires sized to match the trailer loading plate and the axle capacity. Plus one wheel bearing was running hot and rough. I found one of the axles had the brakes removed and the other inoperable. That was more repairs. Lucky I survived my first trip. make sure you check everything. Short of disassembly some oh these things are not visible when buying. Sometimes trying to save money on used backfires when you add up all the cost to put in proper running order.

I always had old beat up trailers with some having trailer house axles and tires. It worked for me quite well.
Four years ago I was looking for a 20-28' trailer to move to a different state. I looked at a used horse trailer at a trailer dealer ship that needed a little work on plus tires. Luckily for me I asked if the brakes were good and he said he would have a mechanic look at them, like he didn't already know. Of course they were shot. So that horse trailer would have cost and extra $1000 with tires and brakes and wiring. I wouldn't buy a used trailer unless I could pull it for a few miles to see if there are any bugs in the system.
I ended one with a new one and after 10,000 miles even the new one needed new brakes.