Trailer Questions

Kevin37 · May 25, 2004

Two questions on trailers for hauling tractor set-ups:

1) Does anyone know of the loading capacity of "Landscape trailer" ramps? The trailer itself seems the same as what is called a "Car hauler", the difference is it has rails about 12" high on three sides and the loading is done with a fold-up ramp that is made up of steel bars covered with a wire mesh. The fact that they call it a "Landscape" trailer makes me envision ZTR's and riding mowers going up that ramp, not my 4710, FEL and MX-6 cutter. They have 16' and 18', both 75" wide inside the rails.

2) Anyone in the Northern Virginia area know of any trailer dealers with good prices? I've seen some awesome prices in TX and OK, but never anything in these areas. Close to me would be Winchester, Frederick MD, Charlestown WV, even Gettysburg PA. The pricing I've found is about $2,000 for the landscapers and $2,500 for the car haulers.

Thanks

Kevin

CVHoss · May 25, 2004

Kevin,
While this isn't a hard and fast rule, most landscape trailers that I've seen have an angle iron frame while car haulers have a C-channel frame. For a tractor the size of a 4710, I think you're going to want something beefier than the typical landscape trailer. My car hauler has a 5" C-channel frame with 4" C-channel cross members on 4' centers. To this, I added 3" C-channel cross members so that I now have a cross member every two feet and this was just to haul my 4400. As for loading capacities of the ramps, I would consult with the trailer dealers. If they can't tell you the capacity of the ramp, I'd find a different dealer.

My best suggestion would be don't skimp on your trailer purchase. You may not use it very often, but when you do, you'll have $30,000.00 worth of equipment sitting on top of it.

Hoss

dltimmons · May 25, 2004

Kevin,

To answer your first question, you are correct. The screen type ramp on the landscape trailers is made for lighter equipment. It is not designed to support a 3K+ load. You need a trailer with fairly heavy loading ramps. Also, any trailer you look at be sure the axles are rated heavy enough to carry both the weight of the trailer itself, and, all of the equipment you need to haul. These landscape trailers typically have 3,500 lb. axles under them. The trailer will probably weigh around 1,800/2,000 lbs. by itself. That only leaves a capacity of 3,000 lbs. for cargo. I would look for 5k lb. axles minimum, also will give you better/heavier duty tires.
Some other things to consider, a 16' trailer will work, but longer 3 pt. implements will hang over the back. An 18' will usually let you take an extra item along if you need to. Torsion axles give a much better ride than slipper spring axles, they cost a little more but are really worth it.
Grease zerks in the ends of the axles make routine maintenance much easier, and if maintained, give much longer bearing life. Removeable ramps, that store under the back of the trailer allow a much broader range of uses versus, swing up style ramps. Stake pockets around the sides/front of the trailer will allow you to make/buy side boards to use the trailer for hauling small/loose items.
Also, drop style axles, keep the bed of the trailer lower to the ground and make loading/unloading a lot easier, however the trailer bed is between the fenders and is much narrower than an over the axle style trailer.
If you are buying a trailer new, negotiate a spare tire/wheel into the deal, with a mount for the spare, much easier/cheaper to do it up front than go back later on.
These are just a few of the items that can make a big difference when looking at trailers to buy.
Sorry I can't help you with your second question.

Good luck,

DT

Soundguy · May 25, 2004

I picked up a 'car hauler' 16' tanden axle trailer with e-brakes and a wood deck for 1600$ in florida. I was in a pinch to get it.. and only looked locally. If I had driven about 60miles, I could have gottenit for about 1300.. but didn't know that at the time.

Find out what the axels are rated for. Around here lots of the landsacpe trailers may have the 7000# axle.. but only 3" angle iron framing.. while the car haulers get 4" framing.

And no.. the expanded metal will pull right thru. You need angle iron ramps... though lots places will substitue ramps like that for the fold up expanded metal gate.

Soundguy

RonR · May 25, 2004

The trailer I bought has the wire mesh cover over angle iron. When I put the small tractor next to it, the angle iron was NOT on under where the wheels would drive up. So I cut two pieces of angle iron the same size as was on the trailer, placed them at the center of my tire widths, and welded them onto the ramp.

Now when the tractor goes up, it's right over the new angle pieces. Seems to work fine.

Just my 2 cents.

Ron

Bird · May 25, 2004

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Grease zerks in the ends of the axles )</font>

Those are generally known as "bearing buddies", at least in my part of the country, and they're most common on boat trailers without brakes. They can be good on trailers with brakes, but I'd caution anyone using them on a trailer with brakes to not overdo greasing them. If you overdo it, and push grease out the rear seal and it gets on the brake linings, you won't like it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

espn · May 25, 2004

I was recently looking for a trailer to haul my Terramite. There's this place in Texas, they have a website: "http://www.indianvalleytrailers.com" They were pretty reasonable, a 16' tandem axle utility trailer started out at $998. You had to pay extra for brakes, a gate or ramps, new vs. good used tires etc..., but they were the cheapest site I found online. They also sell car haulers, a 16'er is around $1850. They deliver to most places in the country. I'm located in California and I think they were going to charge me $350 for delivery. I spoke with them on the phone and they were willing to customize a trailer to suit my needs. The only drawback, was the 5 - 6 week delivery time. But if you're patient, it seems to be very reasonable for a new trailer.

froggy · May 25, 2004

Try Big Tex Trailers. They may have a dealer in your area:
http://www.bigtextrailers.com/Contact_Big_Tex_Trailers/Select_Your_State.html

froggy · May 25, 2004

Bird,

I can second that about pushing grease out the back. Been there before!

Doyle

dltimmons · May 25, 2004

Bird,
I wasn't refering to a Bearing Buddy type cap, but rather, zerks that are installed right in the end of the trailer axles. I have bearing buddies on my boat trailer, but my 26' enclosed car hauler, and my 7' X 12' Wells Cargo, both have rubber torsion spring axles with zerks in the ends of them. The dust caps over the outer bearings, have rubber center inserts that are removable, so you can grease the bearings with a regular grease gun. These axles are drilled through the center, into the area between the inner and outer bearings, so that when you grease them the grease comes out between the bearings.
I agree with taking it easy on how much you grease them thou, cause if you blow out the rear seal, your going to have some real touchy brakes.
Its' just a nice feature that makes routine maintenance easier.

DT