Trailer recommendation

[stumpfield]

I need to hauler a 6500lbs mini dozer from the dealer to my property (a 300 miles trip) to save on the delivery cost. A free trailer if I do this instead of having it delivered... I only need to do this "once". I don't want to rent one because I need the trailer occasionally to haul bulky stuff but not even close to this heavy. Will a 7000lb trailer do it? or do I really need a 10000lb trailer? The trailer itself weights about 2000lbs. The tongue weight probably put 500lbs on the truck. So I'm about 1000lbs over the axle rating. Is there a safety factor in the rating? I heard that the axles are designed to handle a lot more. The manufacturer put a lower rating for liability concerns. What do you think?

 

[mikim]

you didn't say what your truck was - but if I'm reading right - I think you need to buy a bigger trailer and rent a bigger truck to pull it with.

 

[AlanB]

Much bigger trailer in my opinion. And a good truck to haul it with.

My opinion is they rate trailer axles like they rate Craftsman electric motors.

When the black smoke starts pouring out, that is what it is rated too....

That much weight can really push you in a bad spot.

 

[MrJimi]

I need to hauler a 6500lbs mini dozer from the dealer to my property (a 300 miles trip) to save on the delivery cost. A free trailer if I do this instead of having it delivered... I only need to do this "once". I don't want to rent one because I need the trailer occasionally to haul bulky stuff but not even close to this heavy. Will a 7000lb trailer do it? or do I really need a 10000lb trailer? The trailer itself weights about 2000lbs. The tongue weight probably put 500lbs on the truck. So I'm about 1000lbs over the axle rating. Is there a safety factor in the rating? I heard that the axles are designed to handle a lot more. The manufacturer put a lower rating for liability concerns. What do you think?

You need a much heavier trailer, like a 12,000 or a 10,000 pound, also consider you will be putting other things on it.
I am looking for a 14,000 trailer to haul my 7,000 pound skid-steer and attachments, I would not want to be overloaded at the start and look at what the tires are rated for, that will tell you allot. The trailer I am looking at weighs 2,900 pounds leaving me with a 11,100 for equipment and etc.
Jim

 

[stumpfield]

you didn't say what your truck was - but if I'm reading right - I think you need to buy a bigger trailer and rent a bigger truck to pull it with.

I'll be pulling it with a F350 diesel with tow command. I tow a 15,000lb 5th wheel toy hauler often and no problem at all. I think I'm ok with the truck.

I'm only going to do this just once. I've no other need for a heavy duty equipment trailer after this trip but I do need a handy utility trailer in that size for bulky stuff. If I were hauling it everyday, no doublt I will get a much bigger trailer. I just want to know how much head-room is in the axle rating... The tire rating is ok. The frame may flex a little but I don't think it's going to break for just 1 trip. The only thing I'm worry about is the axles and bearings. If it's rated at 3500lb, will it just disintegrate if you load 3600lbs on it?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I need to hauler a 6500lbs mini dozer from the dealer to my property (a 300 miles trip) to save on the delivery cost. A free trailer if I do this instead of having it delivered... I only need to do this "once". I don't want to rent one because I need the trailer occasionally to haul bulky stuff but not even close to this heavy. Will a 7000lb trailer do it? or do I really need a 10000lb trailer? The trailer itself weights about 2000lbs. The tongue weight probably put 500lbs on the truck. So I'm about 1000lbs over the axle rating. Is there a safety factor in the rating? I heard that the axles are designed to handle a lot more. The manufacturer put a lower rating for liability concerns. What do you think?

A 7000# trailer does not have a 7000# LOAD capacity, it has a 7000# GROSS CAPACITY so you have to subtract the weight of the trailer from the 7000# to get you to the load capacity. A typical 7000# trailer weighs between 1500# and 2000# so you are clearly over the capacity of the trailer.

If you only use it one time, seriously consider RENTING a trailer, but rent a 10,000# trailer!

Further, most 7000# trailers are very poorly built, often out of simple angle iron. If someone tells you that there is a safety rating then I think you are being lied too. 7000# trailers are often made by unskilled welders in small shops, there is often no engineering behind them, they just buy some steel and some off the shelf axles, leaf springs, etc and go into business. DO NOT BELIEVE THESE HAVE ANY SUBSTANTIAL SAFETY FACTOR.

I had one, I destroyed it, and I didn't even overload it. Don't risk it, you have too much too lose (load, innocent lives, etc). I would suggest nothing under a 10,000# trailer, that would give you a working load of roughly 8000# capacity.

 

[bx23barry]

While I'm usually ok with overloading some I think you need a 10,000 lb trailer. I would be concerned overloading 3500 lb axles, 7000 lb frame and a light coupler a couple thousand lbs (advertized weights are almost always light and chain & binders weigh something not to mention the little stuff that always finds it's way onto tractors and trailers) for a 300 mile run on the freeway. Too many bad things could happen. Always nice to be able to haul it back to the dealer to get it fixed or over to a friends place too.

 

[ultrarunner]

Can you remove the blade and rops to shed some weight? Just a thought.

 

[gordon21]

Three suggestions. Rent a 10K trailer from almost any big equipment rental yard. You already have enough truck to handle it. That should cost under $100 per day. Anyone renting contractor equipment probably has 2-4 of them laying around.

The second choice is to ask around and find someone with a 10K trailer who will loan you their trailer in exchange for a couple hours work with your new toy. Your cost is for diesel only and the trailer owner gets a great deal too.

Investigate the cost of a flatbed car tower. A large one could handle the 6500# and sometimes they will tow cheaply if it is on their schedule, not yours.

 

[Highbeam]

That's a nice and light dozer. You have plenty of truck but you need something larger than a 7000lb trailer. I have rented a 12000 lb GVWR tilt bed trailer for a measly 50 bucks a day with electric brakes and e-rated tires.

No reason to skimp, the 10k rated trailers only cost marginally more than a 7000 lb version and are built much better in my experience.

 

[George2615]

I agree with the others. You will need at least a 10K trailer. A 6500# dozer is overweight for a 7K trailer. I'm sure you can find a new 10K for not much more than a 7K. A 300 mile trip with a 6500# dozer on a 7K trailer would probably damage or may even bend the axles. The frame may handle the weight but doubt the axles would put up with any bouncing along the road.

 

[rback33]

OK.. so you need a trailer.. just not THAT big... looking to BUY anyway... my guess is.. if you go to the trailer guy and buy the smaller trailer you need... and don't dicker TOO much... then negotiate a one time borrow of a used heavier trailer or something.. he'll have both items you need and he's IS making money off of the trailer you actually buy... worth a shot to me... but I am a tight*** and have negotiated in Walmart before. (and quite well I thought)...

 

[stumpfield]

Don't know if it's true.... The trailer sales guy said the axle manufacturer under rate the axle to cover product liability. The 3500lb axle actually can handle a lot more. They factor-in everyday usage which a lot more metal fratigue. If I overload it just once when it's brand new, it should be OK. Of course, he only said that verbally and besides... he's a salesman.
Anyway, given these responses on TBN, I think I'll stick to the 10,000lb trailer.

 

[roxynoodle]

I didn't have a trailer yet when I bought my tractor. I rented one from a local dealership (they had a 14000lb GVW one) for $75. My tractor was 120 miles from my house and they didn't mind that I had it all day, was going that far and would be dropping it back off after they were closed. I would recommend you either sell your 7000lb trailer and buy at least a 10000lb one or else rent an appropriate trailer to make your trip. That is a long way to go being overloaded and believe me, if something breaks or you have an accident you will be regretting not using a heavier rated trailer. Good luck on your trip.

 

[BarryinMN]

10k is a good choice. I was toting my new to me dozer home & had a trailer tire blow off. It took the wheel rim, lug nuts & studs with it.

Ended up going 30-40 miles on 3 trailer tires and the ball mount.

Didn't know the tire & wheel was missing until I stopped for a break & my normal walk around checking tires & tiedowns came up 1 wheel short

An overloaded trailer suffering an instant extreme overload may not act with as much indifference.