Trailer Running Lights

[timswi]

Op here

Turns out the fuse blew in the truck. Fixed that, plugged it back in and started shaking lights/wires etc..Had it running for 1/2 hour and didn't blow the fuse again. Inside the truck 7 pin and the trailer plug both look like new--I dialectric greased them a while ago...I did lift the pins on the trailer plug a bit for a better connection. Still doesn't make sense..Gotta be a bare wire somewhere or the 1 in a million weak fuse. Guess I gotta crawl around under it and get a better look.

 

[CobyRupert]

Op here

Turns out the fuse blew in the truck. Fixed that, plugged it back in and started shaking lights/wires etc..Had it running for 1/2 hour and didn't blow the fuse again. Inside the truck 7 pin and the trailer plug both look like new--I dialectric greased them a while ago...I did lift the pins on the trailer plug a bit for a better connection. Still doesn't make sense..Gotta be a bare wire somewhere or the 1 in a million weak fuse. Guess I gotta crawl around under it and get a better look.

What do you mean you dielectric greased the pins and plug?
Dielectric Grease

"Dielectric grease is non-conductive so if the user does not properly clean the conductor’s contact points after applying dielectric grease, current will not pass through them. "

Maybe somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is the pin and receptacle should have good metal on metal contact (like a battery post and cable clamp). The dielectric grease would be to coat the metal that is in contact with air (not conducting surfaces) and block it from air, moisture, dirt etc.. so exposed metal doesn't corrode.
That is, you shouldn't have dielectric grease on the metal conductor part (pins, receptacles) that contact each other.

 

[Ford850]

^^ Dielectric grease prevents oxidation and provides some lube for easier connecting. When plugging in, the pins scrape through and make a good clean contact. Many plug kits come with the grease too.

 

[Diggin It]

Dielctric grease is commonly used in connectors to keep water and corrosion out. It does not interfere with conductivity as long as the connectors are seated fully and in good condition.



OP, consider load. How many marker lamps and running lights, what wattage, incandescent or LED, etc. If you have too many lamps drawing too much current, they may simply overload the fuse.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yes that is true, if applied incorrectly. As with anything it has its pros and cons depending on the use. On my plugs I just keep them clean and dry, with no issues.

 

[Ford850]

Op here

Turns out the fuse blew in the truck. Fixed that, plugged it back in and started shaking lights/wires etc..Had it running for 1/2 hour and didn't blow the fuse again. Inside the truck 7 pin and the trailer plug both look like new--I dialectric greased them a while ago...I did lift the pins on the trailer plug a bit for a better connection. Still doesn't make sense..Gotta be a bare wire somewhere or the 1 in a million weak fuse. Guess I gotta crawl around under it and get a better look.

I had the same thing happen on an older trailer, affecting the running lights. I finally found the worn bare wire that occasionally shifted and caused the short, blowing the truck fuse.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I have several trailers. The trailers that never have lights issues are the trailers that I have redone the wiring on and ran a separate ground to every light. It's money and time well spent. I'm also a solder and heat shrink type of guy. Do it once and basically never have issues with that wiring connection again.

 

[CobyRupert]

It does not interfere with conductivity as long as the connectors are seated fully and in good condition.

If OP coats conductors (pins and sockets) with a non-conductive grease, essentially insulating them, how can this not interfere with their conductivity?

Relying on the plug and receptacle to wipe themselves off when you push one into the other and make good conductive contact might not be fool-proof. :2cents:

 

[ruffdog]

If OP coats conductors (pins and sockets) with a non-conductive grease, essentially insulating them, how can this not interfere with their conductivity?

Relying on the plug and receptacle to wipe themselves off when you push one into the other and make good conductive contact might not be fool-proof. :2cents:

They use dielectric grease in components like ignition switches too. Could you imagine if they used a conductive grease like a copper grease? You would have cross terminal arcing...NOT GOOD!

 

[grsthegreat]

Ive seen dielectric grease used I’m many..many electrical situations over the years. Never caused any issues. Even says to use them in spark plug boots for my jet ski in the manual.

 

[oliver1555]

I have several trailers. The trailers that never have lights issues are the trailers that I have redone the wiring on and ran a separate ground to every light. It's money and time well spent. I'm also a solder and heat shrink type of guy. Do it once and basically never have issues with that wiring connection again.

X2. Do it correctly once and seldom have a problem.

 

[Scrambler82]

Do It Right The First Time !

x3 on soldered connections.

A single ground wire down both sides of the trailer connected into one wire at the front, will work, as long as all joints at the lights are soldered, cleaned, and heat shrink with adhesive is used to seal them.

All the soldered connection should be cleaned and covered with Heat Shrink... yes, but use the Heat Shrink with adhesive inside of it, once you shrink it you will see the adhesive come out the ends and seal the joint... no corrosion, no dirt, a good connection for a long time.

Don't let where you buy the Heat Shrink tell you the regular heat shrink will keep dirt and moisture out of the connection, it won't... ALWAYS use the adhesive type of heat shrink only !

As I have said earlier, I have rewired a number of trailers for friends, replaced all of the lighting with waterproof LED Lights, and soldered all connections with the adhesive type os heat shrink. All o the trailers I rewire are still running the new lighting, some after as long as seven years.

Good Luck but as I opened this post, "Do It Right The First Time" !

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'm going to also add that if you run -40 2 wire extension cord down to the brakes it solves the road rash issues that we have on gravel roads to a large extent. Also a piece of metal welded to the brake backing plate to deflect rocks away from where the wires go into the wheel assembly helps too. I try to run the cord down the springs from the rear or behind the swing arm on a torsion system. The wires are easy to keep into place by drilling a small hole into the swing arm and then using wire clips and a pop rivet to hold the clip in place.

Doing the above and soldering and heat shrink to all connections plus led lights makes for a very trouble free wiring system. The majority of times you just plug the trailer in and all the wiring works. There's no fiddling necessary to be legal on the road.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I have to agree on doing it right the first time, my oldest wiring is on my car hauler trailer, it sets outside but used quite a bit, it’s going on 17 years. Only thing I’ve had to do is change out 2 of the sealed incandescent lights.

 

[zing]

If OP coats conductors (pins and sockets) with a non-conductive grease, essentially insulating them, how can this not interfere with their conductivity?

Relying on the plug and receptacle to wipe themselves off when you push one into the other and make good conductive contact might not be fool-proof. :2cents:

Think about of what the connectors have to endure. Pouring rain, water flying up at highway speeds, backing into the water to launch a boat, dust and mud filtering in over the years and coating all connection points, condensation from temperature changes, etc. The non-conducting grease is basically slathered over everything on the inside of the plug connectors, so that each of the wires and all of the connections are isolated from each other and protected from possible shorts due to all of the other stuff that accumulates in there over time.

 

[Scrambler82]

I'm going to also add that if you run -40 2 wire extension cord down to the brakes it solves the road rash issues that we have on gravel roads to a large extent. Also a piece of metal welded to the brake backing plate to deflect rocks away from where the wires go into the wheel assembly helps too. I try to run the cord down the springs from the rear or behind the swing arm on a torsion system. The wires are easy to keep into place by drilling a small hole into the swing arm and then using wire clips and a pop rivet to hold the clip in place.

Doing the above and soldering and heat shrink to all connections plus led lights makes for a very trouble free wiring system. The majority of times you just plug the trailer in and all the wiring works. There's no fiddling necessary to be legal on the road.

The heavy sheathed SJ Cable is a great idea, how is it attached to the Wheel Backing Plate ?
I didn't even think about electric brakes, I've only had hydraulic Brake Systems actuated from the Main bean in front.

They do make armor for the cord to run in, similar to armor added to brake lines and gas lines in areas that get a lot of abuse.
Good ideas.

 

[pmsmechanic]

The heavy sheathed SJ Cable is a great idea, how is it attached to the Wheel Backing Plate ?
Good ideas.

I use padded "P" clips that have a rubber insert to hold the cable with. Most times I just use a pop rivet to fasten the "P" clamp to where ever they need to be fastened. Just make sure the gravel is not beating on the pop rivet as it won't last long if it is.

My thoughts on using the heavier -40 cable was that if by chance the gravel did hit the cable it wouldn't shatter in cold weather. So far it has worked very well. A friend of mine had pipe fittings welded onto the brake backing plates and then ran the wire through a hydraulic hose. The gravel beat the hydraulic hose to pieces which gave me the idea to use a cable that had some give to it.