Trailer Safety Chain concern

Richard · Apr 28, 2004

Is my thinking off here?

My experience with pins like that is they are used to hold an impliment on the 3pt. The hookup itself is what takes virtually ALL the stress and all the pin does is hold the arm on the rotary cutter or box blade (in my case)

Looks to me in this instance, the pin itself COULD be asked to take 100% of the force, rather than (in case of box blade) the hitch hookups take 99% with some "additional" and therefore smaller force bleeding over to the pin (giving credit for maybe sideways force, but not 100% perpendicular force)

I dont think I'd be comfortable with that at all... besides... how many times have you seen a pin like that have the ring part come off the pin itself? (has happened to me)

I'd change it

/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

RonR · Apr 28, 2004

I might take a file to one of my pins to see how hard they are. I can't believe they are very strong! I mean, I
can buy them for 10 cents--much cheaper than a bolt. Maybe that's why the mfg used them in the first place......

I think if I get the trailer out on the road, I'll replace those pins with grade 8 bolts!

I knew this would trigger a lot of discussion!

Ron

chucko · Apr 28, 2004

to me the pins my be weeker metal but they seem way thicker than the chain.
What is on the other end of the chan a "s" hook. how strong are they?

If they built the trailer this way and it fails then it is their problem to pay the lawers
If you change their design and it fails them...... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

SnowRidge · Apr 28, 2004

The setup you have allows not only adjustment, but easy replacement. I like it.

Lots of trailers have their chains welded on, simply because it is about the cheapest way to do it. They get beat to death and covered with rust, and the owner doesn't do anything about it because they are welded on.

From the picture, it looks like the diameter of the pins is larger than that of the chain. They should be plenty strong enough. I wouldn't worry about breakage. The suggestion to change to grade 8 bolts is massive overkill.

If you are concerned, Google is your friend. With dimensions in hand, you should be able to find the safe working load of the chain and the lynch pins. With that information, you can make an informed decision.

SnowRidge

Bird · Apr 28, 2004

I've never seen the chains done that way, but I like it. I'm certainly no expert, but I'll bet that's plenty strong enough.

755inNY · Apr 28, 2004

Anyone have the spring force of the bail fail on a lynch pin? I have. I've also lost lynch pins from the implement. Probably did not have the bail snapped down tight or it caught on something, either way it was GONE. I don't question that it is strong enough and that it is a slick idea for easy adjustment or replacement of the chain but I would not want to rely on that method for keeping the pin in place. It could fail, something could snag on it or some kid could find it fascinating to play with.

Jeff

Inspector507 · Apr 28, 2004

Unless I'm missing something here.......like something hidden by the linch pins in the photo, there is no way to get the next link up through the slot to make any adjustments in regards to chain length.

RonR,
Try to shorten the length on the chains and see if it works......if it does, SORRY /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

RonR · Apr 28, 2004

I think what you can do is "double the chain" over, and stick one link up in the slot. Hard to describe..........

Think there's enough room for that.

(Sorry if that's a head slapper!)
Ron

Inspector507 · Apr 28, 2004

Yeah I understand what you said.......I just never thought of THAT..... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

JJT · Apr 28, 2004

I'd leave it as is. Correct me if I'm wrong but in the event of a hitch failure each lynch pin is only going to take 1/4 the tongue weight, (2 check chains and the other 2 ends are attached to the tow vehicle). With the single axle trailer I don't see an issue with this setup, if fact it's quite clever.