Trailer safety Q's

CTyler · Jan 27, 2003

Trailer safety Q\'s

Hello, I know some of this was discussed on other threads.
I have a 18' car trailer and a L3130 tractor, FEL and Woods 9000 BH. The trailer is rated for #7000.

When chaining down the tractor are the stake pockets strong enough to chain to? I'm assuming not.

I would assume running the chain thru the stake pocket and hooking on the frame would be ok.

Or should I just have some hefty tie down points installed and chain to them. Not sure what those are actually called. They look like a big 3/4 cast iron D ring that pulls up about 6-8 inches or so from the frame.

Is grade 43 chain strong enough, using 4 of them with #5400
ratcheting binders? This is all I have at the moment.

Would it be safe with two grade 70 chains?

Thanks
Chris

RobS · Jan 27, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Hey Chris, it sounds like we've got the same trailer (or close). I've always chained to the stake pockets. I'll use either chain or ratchet straps, depending on the configuration of my tractor (straps are a whole lot easier on paint!). My stake pockets seem pretty beefy plus I've got a rub rail welded all the way around the outside of them. For chain, I drop the chain through the pocket then bring the hook back up and secure to the outside of the pocket. Keeps the hook from falling off as you are tightening things up /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

rdbrumfield · Jan 27, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

I haven't heard of numbered grade chain out here. I use 5/16 and 3/8 for mine with log chain binders. One up front and one back. One thing that helps in the long run, I haul mine a lot, is to weld chain hooks to either side of the loader frame up front below the radiator. Takes runnig chain over this and under that out of the equation, and takes the worry out of hurting cylinders and paint. In the back I use the pin on the hitch to run the chain behind.

CTyler · Jan 27, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

The stake pockets look like 1/8" and welded all the way up the sides to the frame. I'm sure thier strong enough for hauling the tractor around. No rub rail welded to them. I'd feel a whole lot better about using them if it did.

My concern is, are they strong enough to hold the tractor if I hit someone/something or they hit me. I want to be sure, call me paranoid. Knock on wood...no accidents 15+ years and then it was a deer running into the side of my car...LOL! Geawd thier stupid...anyway....

The chain is 3/8 but grade 43 is not real hard. I do have some 2" straps. The straps are definately strong enough but the hook doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

Welding hooks on the tractor sounds like a good idea.

Thanks
Chris

Phred · Jan 27, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

Is grade 43 chain strong enough, using 4 of them with #5400
ratcheting binders?

<hr></blockquote>

Depends on the size. Clearly Grade 43 1/2" would work fine (see link below).
I recall a thread about load binders if memory serves. I like the ratchet style rather than the flip type. The flip type require a helper bar to geat really tight, which can be dangerous. Also the ratchet type will not open up by accident.

I guess ideally both ends of the tractor would be tied down with chains and binders that are rated to the full load of the machine. That way in a bad accident when the full weight of the machine is thrown forward (or backward) the chain on the back (front) will not break and send your baby into the pickup bed (backward onto the road).
I do not think that everyones does it this way but then again I saw a guy just today pulling a small dozer with a 3/4 ton truck/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif. I wondered how many tons overweight he was.

Fred

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.towman.com/zips/newcatlg/bulkchain/>http://www.towman.com/zips/newcatlg/bulkchain/</A>

Gfranklin · Jan 27, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

I can see why 1/8" thick material would make you pause. That is somewhat thin and in in a severe loading such as an impact you could get some deformation and concentrate the load causing the pocket to fail. I would think two 3/8" chains of any grade would be OK. If you have any way to post a picture, that would really open up the conversation.

15 years of being paranoid has served you well, don't stop now. If welding is an option, fire it up. The more anchor points the better, especially on the trailer. I don't like welding anything while it is attached to the tractor as a rule but sometimes you can't avoid it. Just make sure your grind/sand a GOOD grounding point as close to your welding as possible. I do like the idea of welding some hooks or some kind of attaching point to my loader. Right now I run the chain through the loader's torque tube.

Greg

CTyler · Jan 27, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

LOL!!

Just pulled up a window to search for the load rating on the chains. Thought I'd pop in here real quick. Thanks for the link! Looks like 3/8 grade 43 is rated at #5400 the same as the binders. Should be good enough.

hazmat · Jan 28, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

<font color=blue>I guess ideally both ends of the tractor would be tied down with chains and binders that are rated to the full load of the machine. That way in a bad accident when the full weight of the machine is thrown forward (or backward) the chain on the back (front) will not break and send your baby into the pickup bed (backward onto the road).</font color=blue>

Ideally you want the chain rated at some multiple of the tractor weight. When you come to a quick stop (ie slam into something) in an accident, you have a good chance of experiencing several G's of deacceleration. The actaul force depends on several variables, how tight is the chain, what angle is it relative to the accident forces, etc, etc, etc.

Chain ratings do have a factor of safety associated with them, that's why the "working load" is lower than the "breaking strength".

If I had to pick a number, I'd use a chain (or maybe two chains) per end with a working load 4X the tractor's weight. This assumes the breaking strength is about 2X the working load. Granted this is easier to do with smaller tractors.

It all depends how confident you need to be that it won't break free in the event of a wreck.

rdbrumfield · Jan 28, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Securing equipment is just that. In most cases worrying about using a chain big enough not to part in an accident will probably take parts of the trailer with it if you slam into something. Most trailers, car haulers that are used for small tractors, aren't built that heavy. I would just be comcerned about it sliding or rolling in a corner or sudden braking, not hitting some immovable abject.

hazmat · Jan 28, 2003

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Good point Randall.

Got me thinking, is a 7,000 # trailer only designed to support the weight (suspension) and stop it (brakes) or will it "contain" the load in the event of a wreck? If you look at an 18 wheeler cargo trailer, the box is pretty darn weak compared to the load capacity hmmmm.

I'd still sleep better knowing that the tie down system is as strong or stronger than the trailer.