Trailer Setup

   / Trailer Setup #11  
I have trailer and can tell you from experience that about anything you do with yours is going to involve a tradeoff in one way or another. Stake pockets can also be used as attachment points but, when you have stake sides in them you're still going to need D rings. Besides that, you'll never have the stake pockets where you need them for tie downs if you attach them to use for stake sides. You'll still want D rings if only because you can have them every couple feet all the way around. When you're attaching those, put them as high on your side rails as you can. If you have them too low and use straps they'll rub on the edge of your side rail. And when you're buying them, remember, no one has ever said "I have too many tie down attachment points on my trailer."

As to a toolbox, my trailer has an electrically powered hydraulic tilt bed and everything for it but the battery is mounted on the tongue with my drop leg jack and platform for my 8,000 lb. Warn winch so a tongue mounted box wasn't even a consideration. I didn't want to give up floor space for a box either.

I found a couple boxes at Tractor Supply that are designed for mounting inside a pickup bed on either side of the wheel wells along the bedsides made by Geneva. I built a frame on front of my fenders on either side and mounted them there. They extend out no further than my fenders, won't hit bottom even if I flatten both tires to the rim and are no higher than my fender tops. They are approximately 28"L x 8"W x 18"H with the lid hinged on an 8" side. There's a tool tray top and moveable dividers so you can have three compartments below the tray. Of course, you can also take that all out and just have on big box. I mounted mine with the hinges forward so when (not if) I forget to close a lid until I see it as I'm driving 75 mph I won't rip it off and have it bang into whatever I'm hauling.

I couldn't find the exact box at TSC online, but this onehere should give you an idea of what I have. It's another of Geneva's boxes with a side opening revealing drawers. The two I bought have fixed sides and, a hinged top.

Good luck with whatever you decide, I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Trailer Setup #12  
Keep in mind anything mounted permanently to the side will hinder loading palletized material or other items with a forklift or tractor loader. I would move the jack up closer to the coupler and make or buy a compartment in front of the bulkhead. Also add 2 anchors on front rail just below bulkhead about 4 feet apart centered and two more where your beaver tail starts. I think that would be a good start and see if you need more as you use it with diff. machines and implements.
 
   / Trailer Setup
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks to everyone who has offered their help.
I want to take the tractor for a test run this weekend so I think I will use the stake pockets but I really feel that I need to weld on the D-Rings for the best rigging. I do not want to block out the stake pockets because I need to haul material at times and I want to have access to unload it with the FEL. I will be fabricating mesh sides that can be easily dropped into place and then removed. Where I am in the country it is easier to pickup things then get it delivered. I'm a weekender and the times are never right and the waitng is a problem at times. My driveway isn't the most inviting for drivers either, It is 2500 feet and it is uphill plus part of it is along my trout pond and those locals get a little to big eyed seeing the fish. It is hard to sell comments from me that there is only garbage fish when three feet out the car window you see 22+ inch large mouths /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif and trout. We like to keep it tough to get in /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

I intend to go pick up some chain and a binder and rachet in the next day. Then it will time for the first road trip. I'm used to loading the car up for the weekend but this is another whole ball game!

Mike
 
   / Trailer Setup #14  
Mike ... Drive your rig on the trailer, so it feels balanced and you're
happy with the tongue weight. Choose the angle & location that your chain should exit to secure your load ......Then mark the spot on your
trailer, and...................
 

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   / Trailer Setup #15  
Weld some HD D-rings.
Consider the money you have invested in your rig, now is
NOT the time to save a few dollars. ... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ..RayBee
 

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   / Trailer Setup
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I'm wearing the dunce cap while I write this because I continue to feel like the more I learn the less I know! And I'm feeilng pretty stupid about now, but I guess it is better to sound foolish than to be foolish.

I put the tractor on the trailer today for the first time so that I could measure for the amount of chain I need and to site where I would have some D-rings welded in place. I wanted to get the tractor balanced right before measuring and I just am not sure how to be certain of the right balance point. Can anyone help me with how to feel you have it balanced?
The backhoe weighs 955# BTW, it is throwing quite a bit of weight to the rear.

Thanks for the help.

Mike
 

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   / Trailer Setup #18  
Mike, if you've told us what kind of vehicle you're towing that trailer with, I overlooked it. Ideally, you'd like 10-12% of the trailer weight to be tongue weight, but unless you have some scales that most of us don't have, or want to go to some truck scales . . . , well, what I'd do is hook up the trailer, get a yardstick and measure the height at the rear bumper of the tow vehicle or right at the hitch. Then drive the tractor onto the trailer, measure again, move the tractor slightly forward or backward if necessary until the weight of the trailer tongue lowers the back of the tow vehicle one to one and a half inch. Not very scientific, but always worked pretty well for me. At least it's a good starting point.
 
   / Trailer Setup #20  
Yep, with that vehicle, I believe that method will work pretty well.
 

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