Trailer Side Boards

   / Trailer Side Boards #21  
I would make sure you have at least 2' of rail above the tops of the haybales. Otherwise someone might go off backwards...

Aaron Z
 
   / Trailer Side Boards
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Planning on spreading the hay to keep the riders on the floor. Got started this evening. Cut stakes 24" with 3" going in pocket. Runners will be 2"x6" with one on bottom and one on top. Using 3/8" x 3" carriage bolts with runners on inside of stakes.
 
   / Trailer Side Boards #23  
I have a 22' 12k flat bed equipment trailer with stand up ramps. Ramps will be temporarily removed. I need to put sides on it so I can use it for a function at church. Will be using for hay ride and need something to slide bales against and/or lean back against.

Curious what methods/dimensions have been tried with good results. Was considering 2"x4" stakes for the pockets and running plywood down the side and across the front leaving the back open.

A few questions are:
1) How tall do the sides need to be? My initial thoughts were 24".
2) What size plywood? 1/2", 5/8" or 3/4"
3) Plywood or OSB?
4) Any reason to go with treated material? Sides will not stay on all the time. Will be put on when needed and removed when finished. Usually do one or two of these each year.
5) Fasten plywood to stakes on side facing into trailer or side facing outside? Inside seems most logical?

Not looking to reinvent the wheel or take path to frustrations someone else has already traveled. Suggestions, recommendations and ideas welcome and appreciated.

I have rigged out several trailers like this over the years and my favorite method is using 2x4 stakes for the vertical members. Then use 6" wide green treated boards in 5/4 thickness. These are most commonly seen for decking boards or making docks and the like. The advantage is they are less weight than 2x6's, and all four edges are pre-sanded with radiused corners. At the front of the trailer I use hardware that I get at Northern Equipment (formerly Northern Hydraulics). They are like interlocking fingers that allow the front and the sides to detach from each other without tools for removal/storage. At the rear, I use two 2x4's vertically, side by side with a space between them so I can slide in a rear gate vertically...either use it or don't depending on the project. You can space the boards with gaps between them to improve airflow. I use carriage bolts, but from inside out, so the smooth heads are on the inside of the trailer. That way no possibility of hanging up as I slide things into the trailer and out. I do use a couple coats of Thompson's Water Seal on the wood after construction for general protection. I have kept trailers equipped like this outside for a decade with no problems...but I generally keep my stuff inside. You can use a hole saw to drill through the boards to open the area where d-rings are located if you need access to tie-down points while the sides are on. I usually make the sides 36" high on the front and the first 8ft of the sides and then angling down for the remainder of the sides, which I make 18-24" high. That way I get more protection up front for stuff I carry. Hope this helps. I'm about to rig out my newest trailer with this same setup for use next spring. We've had great fun over the years doing the hayride thing with our young friends at church as well. Have a ball!
 
   / Trailer Side Boards
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I have rigged out several trailers like this over the years and my favorite method is using 2x4 stakes for the vertical members. Then use 6" wide green treated boards in 5/4 thickness. These are most commonly seen for decking boards or making docks and the like. The advantage is they are less weight than 2x6's, and all four edges are pre-sanded with radiused corners. At the front of the trailer I use hardware that I get at Northern Equipment (formerly Northern Hydraulics). They are like interlocking fingers that allow the front and the sides to detach from each other without tools for removal/storage. At the rear, I use two 2x4's vertically, side by side with a space between them so I can slide in a rear gate vertically...either use it or don't depending on the project. You can space the boards with gaps between them to improve airflow. I use carriage bolts, but from inside out, so the smooth heads are on the inside of the trailer. That way no possibility of hanging up as I slide things into the trailer and out. I do use a couple coats of Thompson's Water Seal on the wood after construction for general protection. I have kept trailers equipped like this outside for a decade with no problems...but I generally keep my stuff inside. You can use a hole saw to drill through the boards to open the area where d-rings are located if you need access to tie-down points while the sides are on. I usually make the sides 36" high on the front and the first 8ft of the sides and then angling down for the remainder of the sides, which I make 18-24" high. That way I get more protection up front for stuff I carry. Hope this helps. I'm about to rig out my newest trailer with this same setup for use next spring. We've had great fun over the years doing the hayride thing with our young friends at church as well. Have a ball!

Got alot done today. Ran out of some material and lack about another hour or two. There are no stake pockets near the fenders so I am thinking of bolting 2"x4" stakes to the sides anyway to add rigidity and strength in those long spans without any bracing. I would be curious to see how you attached your front board. So far I cut a 2"x6" 82" and used 3" wood screws to fasten it to the sides. Don't think I need a bottom board since my trailer has a front rail with D-Rings. Was thinking of putting a 2"x4" in each front corner on the inside, let it rest on the floor and put carriage bolts through it. Do you have any close ups or links to how yours is put together up front?
 
   / Trailer Side Boards
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Here's the finished product. I have an extra 2"x6" for a tail board, but am hesitant to use it for this task. I am afraid it would be more of a trip/safety hazard than benefit. Would like to have it for bracing/strength on the end rails, but believe it will be fine as is.

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