Trailer sway

brianMO · May 27, 2009

I was towing my tractor over the weekend for the first time on my home-made trailer. All was good all the way down to my property. I kept it at 60 mph on the highway. On the way back it was raining. I was competing with the holiday traffic so I increased my speed to about 68 mph. I was going through a long curve and I went into the death wobble. Talk about making your butt pucker! I was able to slow it down and pull over. I kept it at 60 the rest of the way. I am having a little trouble trying to figure out tongue weight. I also had my bucket up and over the front of the trailer a little. 18 ft trailer really is not long enough for the bucket and a 6 foot b. hog. The trailer is stout enough I think. I have 5200lb axles. I am contemplating buying a weight distribution system with anti-sway. Anybody try this?

George2615 · May 27, 2009

There are many other posts of this same situation. You are correct that your trailer is stout enough but really need a longer trailer since when you have your tractor w/ loader and B/Hog on, the tractor sits too far back on the trailer not giving enough tongue weight. This will cause the death wobble or dog tail wag. If a longer trailer is not an option and you can't move the load more forward on the trailer the best option is to add a weight distibution hitch or keep your speed below the point of the death wobble.

A good general rule of thumb would be to measure your truck bumper height with the trailer attached but with no load on it. Then drive your tractor on and move forward until the tongue weight makes the truck bumper sag about 2-3 inches.

Diamondpilot · May 27, 2009

The hitch and sway bar will help but you may also want to try positioning the tractor on differently. I back mine on my trailer. Just seems to ride better and appears to be easier on the canopy.

Chris

Bird · May 27, 2009

A weight distributing hitch can help with sway, especially if it includes a sway control, but its primary purpose is to "distribute" some of the tongue weight to the front axle of the towing vehicle when you have too much tongue weight. It sounds as if, in this case, there might be too little tongue weight.

KeithInSpace · May 27, 2009

I have a WD hitch and love it. I've seen claims of systems that combine the WD trunnions with a sway control, but I figure they're counting the friction of the trunnions in the hitch head as "sway control". Not 100% sure about this. I've never had a sway problem with my 20' trailer, but have noticed that it could be a bit more controlled in cross-wind.

I just got a 19.5' long hybrid travel trailer that was already set up for my WD hitch, thankfully, but it also had a friction-type Reese Sway Control bar installed. What a WORLD of difference. That thing stays LOCKED behind my truck in all conditions even though it has a much higher wind profile than my regular trailer/tractor combo.

I'd get a regular WD setup and get the seperate sway control bar. It allows you to adjust and the geometry (about 6" off ball center) seems much more apt to properly/effectively control trailer sway.

Hematite · May 27, 2009

First, ST trailer tires are rated for a MAX of 65 mph. It's a good idea not to exceed that speed rating. Blowouts at that speed can be catastrophic!

Second, from the safety standpoint it is a very good idea to weigh the weight on the tongue. For stable towing a certain percentage of the total weight should rest on the tongue. If I remember correctly, it should be at least 6% up to 10%? You may have to change loading practices to achieve this.

Third, depending on the truck/ trailer/ load, the desired tongue weight may be too much for the hitch receiver on the truck. If it is, you need a WD hitch. I use a Reese Dual Cam high performance model. This includes what is likely the best sway control on the market (Dual Cam arms).

daBear · May 27, 2009

I have about 25 years experience pulling RV's, both 5th wheel and bumper pull. The problem you describe is only caused by low tounge weight. Load distributing hitches, sway bar or bars will certianly help, but your load and ballance is way off and you found this out in somewhat normal conditions. If you were in an emergency condition like trying to move quickly to avoid hitting something you probably would have wound up on your side.

There are other contributing factors like tire design, tire pressure, sidewall height and flex, wind, etc., but those are just contributing factors. Please take care of the toungue weight issue before you have a real problem.

brianMO · May 27, 2009

I know this is scary. I went ahead and ordered the friction sway bar today from etrailer.com. This is the Reese. Fairly economical addition, but I believe bottom line is I did not have enough tongue weight. I have a V5 hitch with the proper hitch and ball. I think I am going to have a measuring tool handy so I can see exactly how much I squat my truck. I pull with a 2500 dodge w/ a cummins 24v. My axles are 50/50 with recommendation of my neighor because of tongue weight. I think the next time I am going to drop the bucket up front since I have quick skid loader attachments. I then will raise the fel arms and nose the tractor up further on the trailer.

Duffster · May 27, 2009

brianMO said:
I know this is scary. I went ahead and ordered the friction sway bar today from etrailer.com. This is the Reese. Fairly economical addition, but I believe bottom line is I did not have enough tongue weight. I have a V5 hitch with the proper hitch and ball. I think I am going to have a measuring tool handy so I can see exactly how much I squat my truck. I pull with a 2500 dodge w/ a cummins 24v. My axles are 50/50 with recommendation of my neighor because of tongue weight. I think the next time I am going to drop the bucket up front since I have quick skid loader attachments. I then will raise the fel arms and nose the tractor up further on the trailer.

What do you mean by "My axles are 50/50"?

brianMO · May 27, 2009

My axles are measured exactly in the middle of the trailer. Not including the tongue.

Duffster · May 27, 2009

There is your problem right there then.

Diamondpilot · May 27, 2009

After reading you comment of your axles being 50/50 I do not think any type of hitch will solve your problems. As a minimum you need 60/40 with the 60 being 60% of the deck area before the 2 axles center. With 40% of the deck after the axles center. When making these measurements do not include undecked area such as the 4-6 feet of tongue area.

You really need to move your axles back first and make sure you have 10-15% of the load on the tongue. Like others have said if you would have had to swerve to miss a deer or something you would be flipped.

Do not try to fix this issue with a hitch. Get the trailer right first then see what you have.

Chris

Diamondpilot · May 27, 2009

Just so we are clear here is a picture of a WD Hitch. These are great for many things but I really do not think it will solve your issues. Just wanted to show you what we are talking about.

This picture shows the hitch, bars, and sway system. The sway bar usually mounts on the right side of the hitch and right side of the trailer.

Again, fix the axle location first. Then if needed add the hitch to take the sag of the truck you are towing with.

Chris

radman1 · May 27, 2009

I agree, your axles are in the middle of the trailer - not good. With th load you had, your tongue weight is too light and that is only compounded by the axles placed in the middle of the trailer. Can you reposition the axels back a couple of feet?

Reg · May 27, 2009

Huhh ?
You seem to have found a PERFECT formula for disaster;
Increasing speed to compete with heavier traffic when it starts raining ?

I think I am unable to help you.
I certainly want to NOT help you go any faster in heavier traffic on slicker roads.
Just in case I'm coming the other way at the same time on the same road.

brianMO · May 27, 2009

I have room for more tongue weight. I can move the tractor another 3 foot forward, I am not really sure if this is a huge problem. But I would have't to agree that typically the axles are further back. Lessons can be learned in a hard way sometimes. If I reach the 10-15% tongue weigh recommended is this really a problem?

firemanpat2910 · May 27, 2009

move the axles or get some "Fat Boys" thats what we use on a boat to fill with water for more weight so we have more wake.

Duffster · May 27, 2009

brianMO said:
I have room for more tongue weight. I can move the tractor another 3 foot forward, I am not really sure if this is a huge problem. But I would have't to agree that typically the axles are further back. Lessons can be learned in a hard way sometimes. If I reach the 10-15% tongue weigh recommended is this really a problem?

No it is not that big of a deal if you have room to pull it forward yet.

10-15% is a guideline and not gospel.

wkpoor · May 27, 2009

My axles are measured exactly in the middle of the trailer. Not including the tongue.

Bingo! Thats your problem. I personally have never experienced the sway but I can see where a set up like yours would be prone to wiggle regardless of loading. 60/40 is a more tradition placement for axles. With 50/50 I would think it might actually need more than the 10% to keep sway at bay.

Hematite · May 27, 2009

brianMO said:
My axles are measured exactly in the middle of the trailer. Not including the tongue.

I've never seen a trailer like that! The ones that I've seen all have the axles towards the rear of the deck. You can get the balance forward by detaching the bucket on the trailer, turning it around and driving the tractor forward so that the arms are now inside the bucket. You would need to weld hooks to the bucket so that you could secure it to the trailer.

Alternatively, you could have brackets welded to the front side of the trailer to mount the front bucket on upside down. Cam is one manufacturer that offers this type of mount.