Trailer Towing question

[Jeff396]

Wow, the cross your straps opinion was one that I got from the trailer rental guy and just about every place I searched on the internet. Many on the internet not only cross their rears but also their fronts as well. After reading your post I guess the determining factor is where the tie down points are on the trailer as compared to the attachment points on the car. If they are slightly outboard you already have your lateral hold built in. If for some reason they were at the same width you might get some side to side movement. I am off to pick up the trailer within the hour. Hopefully it will all become clear when I go to strap down the car.

Jeff

 

[MikePA]

Jeff, all this 'trouble' you're having with trailers, tie downs, etc. is your Vette telling you he doesn't want to be sold! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[Jeff396]

When I asked her/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif she seemed to prefer that to the mysterious fire option./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Jeff

 

[MikePA]

Jeff, tell ya what. For $10,000 I will drive down, pick the Vette up and drive it back to my place. This will let you forget all about this trailering stuff. No more worrying. No anxious trip and 10 grand too. Whaddaya think? /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif

Talking about a fire...that's how I lost my '68. Backfire thru the carb. Poof. Car was totaled. The body was OK, 'cept the underside of the hood, but the engine was shot (327/350). The fire got so hot the heads were warped, or so the Chevy dealer told me (Ammon R Smith - remeber them from drag racing? They're out of business now.). Insurance paid me $4,000. I had only paid $2,100 for the car. Yes, this was a long time ago...1976 to be exact. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Jeff,

Check this out. I copied it from the "How to" section of the catalog of a towing equipment supplier.

RECOMMENDED STRAP ALIGNMENT FOR RACE CARS,
ANTIQUE or CLASSIC AUTOS AND MOST FOUR WHEELED VEHICLES

Position vehicle on trailer. Move vehicle as necessary to balance trailer for Tongue Weight Distribution.

Attach one (1) pair of Tie-Downs to front end of vehicle at a point below suspension system and in a manner preventing strap movement.
(a) Attach Ratchet end of Tie-Downs to trailer bed attachment hardware.
(b) Activate ratchet and apply equal tension to each Tie-Down strap.

Attach one (1) pair of Tie-Downs to rear end of vehicle at a point below suspension system and in a manner similar to that described above for the front end of the vehicle.

NOTES:

Webbing should be protected against contact with sharp edged parts, hot surfaces and acids. Do Not Use Tie-Down if webbing is cut, frayed or damaged.

To achieve tie-down load rating, all strap components must be in straight line with the direction of pull.

Hardware should have load rating equal to or greater than the rating of the Tie-Downs.

Criss-Crossing of the Tie-Downs should be used only when both ends of Tie-Down strap are securely locked in a fixed position to vehicle component and to trailer attachment point prohibiting Tie-Down movement

In a perfect world if I were towing the same vehicle on the same trailer I would have my attachment points on the trailer floor located in such a manner as to have the staps at approximately a 30 degree angle and 3"-4" to the outside of the attachment points on the vehicle. That will give you the optimum towing tie down strength and security.

Most people make the mistake of trying to secure the vehicle too near to straight down. That's not at all the best way to go. Good luck with your journey. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Jeff396]

Thanks, everything went great securing the car. The oval holes in the frame along with the T hooks made it very simple. I did end up crossing the straps at the rear as the tie down points were at about the exact width of the attachment points on the car. I did end up putting a blanket at the point that they cross and since the frame attachment point on the car is on the bottom of the frame the straps touch nothing on the car. My only complaint is that I have a hard time seeing the passenger side tire in my mirror when making right turns. The regular mirror is filled with a lot of white trailer and my spot is a bit small to see where exactly the wheel is. I'll just have to be extra careful on that one.

Jeff

 

[Jeff396]

<font color=blue>Jeff, tell ya what. For $10,000 I will drive down, pick the T-bird up and drive it back to my place. This will let you forget all about this trailering stuff. No more worrying. No anxious trip and 10 grand too. Whaddaya think?</font color=blue>

That offer is acceptable with the one minor change I have made. Let me know!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Jeff

 

[Wingnut]

speaking of fires .... they had an article on the local news a couple of nights ago on Michigan and car fires. Seems like it's becoming the preferred route now-a-days for people who want out of leases .... insurance companies here are paying out so much that they're now actively investigating most car fires. The number of fires here in the last 2 years was absolutely astounding .... I'd always thought these people movers were a little bit more fire resistant /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

 

[Jeff396]

It is done./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif The trip went off without a hitch (no pun intended). I can't say enough about the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. My wife's parents used to pull large travel trailers and she remembers vividly the jerking when bring the rig to a stop. This thing makes it smooth!!!

Anyways, good riddens to Corvettedom. I'm glad I experienced it but I wouldn't do it again.

Thanks to everyone for all the trailering help!!!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Jeff

 

[MikePA]

<font color=blue>Anyways, good riddens to Corvettedom. I'm glad I experienced it but I wouldn't do it again.</font color=blue>
Why? (just curious)

BTW, your counter offer of $10K for the T-Bird almost tempted me! If it was 12 - 18 months from now, when the tractor is almost paid off....