Trailer usage - Storage Concept/Reality Check

[Panik]

May be a stupid idea/question.... but I'm hoping for some feedback on an idea I have.

I have a shop with a covered wing and I strongly dislike leaving any equipment exposed to the elements if I can help it. Currently the tractor (bx2360) gets parked inside on on 1/2 of the shop with implements stored on wheeled dollies along that wall. The trailer (Kaufman 10K) and zero turn get stored under the covered wing, which has a level well compacted rock floor.

Due to the location of the covered wing and clearance limitations on the far side I can drive the zero turn and tractor all the way through the covered wing; however I cannot do the same with the trailer - it has to be backed into place under the wing.

Generally speaking inside the shop there is enough space to move everything around and work as needed. However, there are occasionally times where having the floor space where the tractor sits available would be a huge asset......Currently building about ten large floor cabinets for work and working real estate has become an issue.

I've occasionally wondered about having two appropriate sized (i.e for what the trailer can support, not the comparatively lighter weight of the bx) landing gear welded to the rear frame of the trailer. The idea being that as necessary those landing gear (along with trailer tire chocks) would allow me to store the tractor on the trailer under the covered wing without having to attach a vehicle to the trailer any time I wanted to get the tractor on or off the trailer.

Thoughts?

 

[Rockbadchild]

I don't see why it wouldn't work, as long as you have the height.

 

[Roadworthy]

If you weld the landing gear to the trailer would you have a way to detach it when you want to use the trailer for hauling? Perhaps you have room to extend or widen your lean to?

 

[Rockbadchild]

If you weld the landing gear to the trailer would you have a way to detach it when you want to use the trailer for hauling? Perhaps you have room to extend or widen your lean to?

They have adjustment on them so you can pull back up when you are using it.

 

[Panik]

I don't see why it wouldn't work, as long as you have the height.

The input is appreciated. I think I have the clearance to do so - I can back the tractor/trailer combo under the lean-to no problem, so I "think" I'm good with loading angles... would just have to ground-truth.

I'm just looking for folks to pick a part the idea and see if there's anything I'm missing in the equation.

If you weld the landing gear to the trailer would you have a way to detach it when you want to use the trailer for hauling? Perhaps you have room to extend or widen your lean too?

I haven't gotten to the point of really looking at land gear yet. However, I had in mind the type where there's a receiver column of steel weld to the side of the trailer with multiple holes drilled so that a collapsable jack leg can be pinned to it perpendicularly or in-line with the frame, or removed completely for storage during transport.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Stabilizer jacks I believe they are called, its a good idea to get them installed to load and unload your tractor regardless if you will store your tractor on it or not. Also make sure your front Jack is ridged enough to support your tractor just in case you go too far forward.

 

[CH4Ohio]

I have a Sure-Trac dump trailer that has square receivers welded on both sides at the rear. There are drop-legs that can be dropped down and pinned in-place to help when using ramps to load equipment. Keeps the front from pulling up on the tow vehicle or can be used without being hitched to a tow vehicle -- as you're wanting to do.

It's a good plan. If you don't want to make your own, there are plenty available. I did a quick search. Here's a couple. On the Sure-Trac site, they're called "Rear Trailer Support Jacks" and show as an option on most of their dump trailers.

Just weld square tubing to accept the drop-legs and you're ready to load it. Chock the tires good!

Fulton Stabilizer Trailer Jack Adjusts from 25 in to 37 in | eBay

Square tube stabilizers are fabricated from high strength, structural steel tubing, and are yellow zinc-plated for excellent corrosion-resistance. Common applications include cargo trailers, industrial implements, and equipment outriggers.<li>

www.ebay.com

1.5" x 1.5" square tube stabilizer leg for Dump Trailers. 30" long . Does not include mounting brackets or park pins.

</li><li>1.5" x 1.5" square tube stabilizer leg for Dump Trailers </li><li>30" long </li><li> Prevents PJ dump trailers from lifting up on the tailgate of the pickup when loading equipment </li><li> Can be adjusted up all the way when not in use </li

parts.pjtrailers.com

 

[paulsharvey]

Although the idea should work, you need to think out the attachment points on the trailer. Much of that metal is thinner than you realize; and depending on the frame style on the trailer, it might be difficult to find good attachment points at the front corners.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Your idea should work, although for reasons mentioned above, it might not be as simple as it seems.

What is the ceiling height of you shop? Could you use a 4 post lift to store implements off the floor and park the tractor underneath?

Not cheap by any means, but the lift can be used for other purposes as well. I have 3 of them which wound up being cheaper than putting up a new building.

 

[Panik]

Stabilizer jacks I believe they are called, its a good idea to get them installed to load and unload your tractor regardless if you will store your tractor on it or not. Also make sure your front Jack is ridged enough to support your tractor just in case you go too far forward.


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I have a Sure-Trac dump trailer that has square receivers welded on both sides at the rear. There are drop-legs that can be dropped down and pinned in-place to help when using ramps to load equipment. Keeps the front from pulling up on the tow vehicle or can be used without being hitched to a tow vehicle -- as you're wanting to do.

It's a good plan. If you don't want to make your own, there are plenty available. I did a quick search. Here's a couple. On the Sure-Trac site, they're called "Rear Trailer Support Jacks" and show as an option on most of their dump trailers.

Just weld square tubing to accept the drop-legs and you're ready to load it. Chock the tires good!

Rockbadchild/CH4Ohio - Thanks sincerely for the input those stabilizer legs are exactly what I was thinking of...

I'll likely go the route of having them welded on rather than building/doing it myself. I've got interest in taking up welding, but doubt it's a good first project...

'sides with one kid in competitive Bugle & Drum Core this summer as well as trying to figure out how to pay for a 16 year old driver it would be looked down upon by my partner to drop the coin on a welder to right now...

That said, we've got a major facility renovation going on at work right now. The PM is a good friend, there's some structural welding that needs to happen with the renovations and the contract welder is local known and respected.... now would be an excellent time to buy the stabilizers bring the whole shebang to work and a pull in a favor during some downtime/after work hours.

Although the idea should work, you need to think out the attachment points on the trailer. Much of that metal is thinner than you realize; and depending on the frame style on the trailer, it might be difficult to find good attachment points at the front corners.

I know what you're talking about having gone through a couple less robust trailers before I settled on the current one. I can't quote you gauge, but its a 20' + 2' 10K equipment trailer:

- 6" channel tongue
- 5" channel frame rails
- 3" channel crossmembers (either 16" or 14" O.C. - I want to say I paid for an upgrade on crossmember distance when I ordered, but I don't see that option now)

There looks to be space on the frame rails just in front of where the dovetail starts for removable jack legs. For the weights involved I'm less concerned about stressing/flexing the frame and actually more concerned about ensuring the jack legs that are rated well above what is needed to handle a BX.

In writing things out there's something I need to think about and possibly very carefully contemplate. I purposely well over bought in terms of capacity when I purchased that trailer.

The ramps for that trailer are framed with heavy "C" channel and have integral jack legs at their base (where the ramps meet the dovetail) that swing down and come into contact with the ground when the ramps are lowered. It could be that with placing a 2"x12" that is the width of the trailer under where those ramp legs contact the ground I might be able to accomplish what I need without buying additional jack legs to weld to the trailer. Understand in saying that this is not something I am going run out and attempt.... having a pivot point (the hinges for the ramps) in front of the ramp legs makes me sit up and take note. I also do understand that those ramp legs exist to assist in reducing some of the upward lift on the tow vehicle the loading and unloading equipment.... not necessarily take the full weight of the equipment.